Pic of Milkshake spew all over my engine. Help please

[samsung4]

Hi all,

Had an incident with my boat engine and need some advice as I don't know what to do next.

We just summarized our boat and launched. New oil, filters, water separator, etc.
Was running rough after a few minutes.
Opened engine and good old milk shake pouring out of top cover breathers and dipstick. Dipstick kept pouring out for 5 minutes after engine turned off as it was clearly full of water on that side.


Thinking block cracked over winter (thought we did it right but...)
No oil/water on plugs, no oil/water in carb throat. No oil in engine water out into lake (no oil slick)

Any thoughts?
How should I troubleshoot.
What do I do

I would suspect any boat mechanic would be crazy busy right now.
If it is an entire engine replace, I might consider scrapping the entire boat although I don't really have the money for a nused one.

Thanks
Mark

 

[samsung4]

It is a Mercruiser 4.3 LX Gen+ with an Alpha one leg

 

[itsathepete]

Could be cracked block or head or head gasket or oil cooler though I suspect block. Compression test should tell you if its head gasket. Inspect sides of block for cracks in water jacket. Good luck

 

[samsung4]

The engine did continue to run, although i could not get it up to higher rpms. Presumably because of the back pressure of the water in the oil side.
If it was head gasket, would there not be water/oil in the spark plugs, or shooting through the carb?
The MIlkshake was spewing at a significant rate out of the breathers and dipstick tube.
Thanks for you advice. I will have to look up how to do a compression test.

 

[Bt Doctur]

We just summarized our boat and launched. New oil, filters, water separator, etc.
Was running rough after a few minutes.

Sounds like a winterizing failure .and those batwings are prone to failure also

 

[samsung4]

I agree likely winterizing failure. Have done it for many years, my sons more involved last year so perhaps an error was made. Still not sure how.
I have heard do a compression test and inspect sides of block for cracks in water jacket.
Any other suggestions other than the obvious winterization failure that I already agree likely happened.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Pressure test the cooling water jacket.

May just be failed batwings

 

[tpenfield]

Since the milkshake look more Vanilla flavored than Coffee, I'd say there is quite a large leak.

Check the manifolds first . . . however, if it is the manifolds, you'd have water in the cylinders.

Also, insufficient winterization could cause either the block of manifolds to freeze-crack (or both).

What was the lowest temperature the boat was exposed to over the winter? Any details on the winterization process?

 

[paulswagelock]

Winterization gone wrong, most likely a cracked block. Bummer.

 

[Lou C]

Before throwing in the towel check those bat wings for leaks. They are a known failure point.

 

[itsathepete]

In an attempt to be optimistic, there is a chance it is a bad intake manifold or intake gasket. A coolant leak can get into the oil from here without compromising the cylinders.

 

[Scott06]

In an attempt to be optimistic, there is a chance it is a bad intake manifold or intake gasket. A coolant leak can get into the oil from here without compromising the cylinders.

Entirely possible the water cross over inintake cracked. I believe there is a drain plug in it that can get missed

 

[Lou C]

Also the intake gaskets for the Vortec have been more problematic than the older pre Vortec due to changing the design. And yes there has been debate about if those Vortec intakes will crack if that plug on the front edge of it is not removed. You should move on this though leaving it with water in the oil will damage the bearings.
1) remove exhaust manifolds carefully fill with acetone to check for leaks at the ports that line up with the exhaust ports in the cyl heads.
2) drain all the water out of the engine then rig up a way to air pressure test the cooling passages (do a search how to do this has been discussed several times).
Then report back.

 

[samsung4]

We did not do a good job winterizing clearly.
For the last 10 years i understood that if you got all of the water properly out of this engine antifreeze was a step that was not needed.
Clearly i made a mistake.
There are 4 drain plugs on the engine. We used a screwdriver to make sure that all the water got out of each orifice and that no rust blocked the exit of the water.
During i usually turn the engine over a full 360 or two making sure the water pump has had a chance to get more than 50% of the water out from each section.
Last year i did not do that.
Having said that I spoke to a very knowledgeable individual who has worked on peoples boats in the area with the same engine.

He has indicated that when the boat is tipped back (as i always do to make sure water runs out the back drain) there is a pocket of water that can stay in the back of the intake manifold.
This of course will freeze and crack that area if it can (again no antifreeze, duuu.. my cheap ass not wanting to buy a pump, won't do that again)

I have not checked but he indicated that very likely it is the intake manifold that has cracked with the frozen water in this situation.

For reference, i have taken ~26Liters of water and oil out of the engine/bilge in the ~4 minutes it ran for. (Found out how to water oil separate in buckets

I have now drained the engine as best i can (no back drain plug (or hose) as in later models) by sucking all i can out of the dipstick. (I have checked, yes they were dumb enough for a moment to not have a drain plug, very annoying and now really annoying)
I filled with 3.5 liters of oil again, ran for 15 seconds then checked.
Milkshake on dipstick the same so still not good inside.

I am seriously worried about rusting inside the oil compartment that destroys the cam etc.

Hopefully it only costs me a few k. I wanted to do it myself but after looking at it (and the continuing mess in the engine oil side) I am going to take it to a professional in Oliver BC (Darrell) to fix.

Having said that, everyone is busy. I am cleaning the engine best i can tonight.

How is he going to clean the engine oil side. (assuming the crack is not catastrophic).
I have heard about removing valve covers and spraying diesel oil in?

Do you think the intake manifold is likely to cause an event where water gets into the oil side but not the combustion side? (Actually still runs not badly)


Thanks
Mark

 

[Lou C]

If the intake cracks it will put water right into the cam valley and into the oil….but usually not into the cyls. Blown HG, cracked head, bad exhaust will put it into a cylinder

 

[jimmbo]

Blocks can crack too. As strong as Cast Iron is, it is no Match for Freezing Water

 

[Rick Stephens]

Too much water to be the exhaust manifolds. Will not fill the engine with water while running.

Most common place for a 4.3L to crack, where you can see it, is in the lifter gallery right above the lifters. Gotta pull the intake the see that. Plug your water lines out to the exhaust and pressure test. It will be fairly evident with that much water coming in.

 

[Rick Stephens]

The other half of this conversation is that the 4.3L Vortec block is common as dirt. Chevy pumped out a lot of S-10s and 1/2 ton pickups n vans with that motor. If you are mechanical minded, an engine swap is not all bad.

 

[jimmbo]

The other half of this conversation is that the 4.3L Vortec block is common as dirt. Chevy pumped out a lot of S-10s and 1/2 ton pickups n vans with that motor. If you are mechanical minded, an engine swap is not all bad.

As long as the Appropriate Parts are used/installed to Marinize it.

 

[dubs283]

I have not checked but he indicated that very likely it is the intake manifold that has cracked with the frozen water in this situation.

Based on your explanation of the winterizing process I am inclined to agree. Sounds like you got most if the water out if the block/ex manifolds but you make no mention of draining the intake (if this is required for your particular engine). Not all 4.3L intakes have a drain/require draining. Drain plug is located at front of intske and is a square head, 3/8 (?) NP that is painted black so it matches color exactly and often gets overlooked

Pull the intake and inspect the underside, if cracked it will be quite evident