Piston Rings for a OMC 5.5

OMC-boy5.5

Seaman
Joined
Aug 16, 2010
Messages
51
I'm looking to re-ring the 57 evinrude 5.5 that I just picked up. Anybody know where I can find some rings? Part #'s? I can't seem to find any.

Also, do you think it will need to be honed or any bore work done?
 

jay_merrill

Vice Admiral
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,653
Re: Piston Rings for a OMC 5.5

Let's start with the basics - why do you think you need new rings? Have you done a compression test on the motor? Have you taken the head off to see what the bores look like?



???
 

jmendoza

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
314
Re: Piston Rings for a OMC 5.5

On my 1954 CD-11 5.5 all I had to do was de-carb with Valv-Tect, did the trick, see picture of it below:
 

Attachments

  • 1954johnson[1].jpg
    1954johnson[1].jpg
    136.9 KB · Views: 1

F_R

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jul 7, 2006
Messages
28,226
Re: Piston Rings for a OMC 5.5

I'm looking to re-ring the 57 evinrude 5.5 that I just picked up. Anybody know where I can find some rings? Part #'s? I can't seem to find any.

Also, do you think it will need to be honed or any bore work done?

I can see where you are having trouble finding the part number. It fell victim to a series of number changes through the years. Original number was 41-333 changed to 307575, changed to 378432. 378432 is a ring set of 3, for one piston. So you need two sets.

Those rings were used for well over 20 years and are available from any Evinrude dealer.

Cylinder prep depends on conditon. If not worn excessivly, just a light hone to break the glaze is all that is needed. If it is deeply scored, it needs a re-bore and oversize pistons and rings. It probably isn't worth that kind of money.
 

jay_merrill

Vice Admiral
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,653
Re: Piston Rings for a OMC 5.5

On my 1954 CD-11 5.5 all I had to do was de-carb with Valv-Tect, did the trick, see picture of it below:

I've become a fan of "BRP Engine Tuner." I recently thought I overheated my motor a bit (I didn't) and did a compression test to check its health. The results indicated PSI values a little lower than I expected, so I ran a can through the carbs. On the next test, I saw an even rise of about 10 psi per cylinder.

I've also used the stuff on my 2000 Chevy Astro. I was getting some audible knocking, so I ran two cans through the motor, via the intake. The knocking immediately disappeared and has not come back. Its good stuff!



???
 

OMC-boy5.5

Seaman
Joined
Aug 16, 2010
Messages
51
Compression

Compression

it was 65 lbs top and 60 bottom..... just got the coils in the mail and put everything together and for the 15 seconds I ran it, it seemed to run decent. Then realized it needed a new water pump impeller. I will retest after I get some run time into it and do a decarb.

My next question, When you pull off the powerhead when doing the water pump, is there a gasket there that would need replacing? Would I need to buy some kind of gasket sealer or something for there too? And when pulling the lower unit off, is there a gasket there too that would need replacing?

Some history on the motor, I just got it for $80 and the tank is lightly rusted (I think with some steel wool might be cleanable). I just replaced the lower unit oil and some thick sludgy dirty (sand?) oil came out first, then the rest was thick black gear lube. I proceeded to take apart the rest of the motor and was finding sand everywhere..... then my dad suggested and I finally realized how it got there. We figure it was just found on the bottom of a LAKE. It looks like a carb kit was done and that somebody 'attempted' to clean the tank.
 

jay_merrill

Vice Admiral
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,653
Re: Piston Rings for a OMC 5.5

Sixty to sixty-five pounds is about what I would expect to see from a small, rope start motor. The split in values, is also right under the 10% differential value, that is typically used to determine overall health of the cylinders. I don't think that I would re-ring the motor, at this point.

If the motor was submerged and not properly dealt with later, I would expect more problems than you are seeing. That is not to say that this might not have happened, but I am not hearing anything that gives me huge concern about it.

The gear case is something else. If there is water and sand in it, that's not a good thing. If it is just dirty in appearance (no gritty feel, no milkiness, etc.), I would go ahead and replace it. Don't forget to get new plastic crush washers for the drain and vent screws - failure to replace them is the most common reason why water gets in gearcases.

If the carb was properly cleaned and rebuilt, but the motor still doesn't run well, its a pretty good bet that the ignition system needs attention. The good news is that it isn't terribly expensive to replace all of it. At a minimum. I would most likely replace the points and condensors. Don't try to file the points - if they are pitted, replace them. If the coils show signs of cracking, replace them too. Bear in mind, however, that even coils that don't look bad, can be bad. If in doubt, take them to your local BRP/Evinrude dealer - they can test them for you.

One easy way to do a check of the ignition system, is to use either a spark checker (available at most auto parts stores) or an inductive timing light, to see if you are getting current to the plugs. When you set the new points, you must set them exactly at the peak of the cam lobe. There should be a mark on it, to tell you where that is. The recommeded setting is .020, though I've heard of some people setting them at .018. I stick with the factory recommendation.

As for the gasket, yes, there is one that goes between the top of the midsection and the bottom of the powerhead. It is highly unlikely that you will be able to successfully reinstall without replacement, so buy one.

IMO, the 5.5 - 6 hp series was among the best group of motors that OMC ever made. Short of major abuse, they tend to run "forever." I even used a '56 5.5 hp Johnson that I still own, to push a 26 foot sailboat for awhile. The motor that I normally used, was being rebuilt and I needed something for an auxilliary, so I had the 5.5 converted to a long shaft and used it. The old Johnny got the job done!



???
 

OMC-boy5.5

Seaman
Joined
Aug 16, 2010
Messages
51
Re: Piston Rings for a OMC 5.5

Have a part number for that gasket? Or just anywhere I should be able to get one?

I just ordered an impeller and plate, along with a gear case seal kit. I will further examine the gears and such in the lower unit when I get to it. It does seem to shift well as of right now (non running).

I just replaced both coils and lightly sanded the points and just set them by eye (not exactly by the book, but I'll get a feeler gauge and set later). It did run pretty well while I ran it, so I'm not too worried about any other problems. I might end up getting a carb kit and float and redoing the carb myself eventually just to be sure, but will wait until I see it runs well.

Long term plans are to do a complete restore and repaint to OE condition.
 

jay_merrill

Vice Admiral
Joined
Dec 5, 2007
Messages
5,653
Re: Piston Rings for a OMC 5.5

Sea-Way Marine is a great source for old outboard parts, as are a few other places. See this thread/"sticky" for more info.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=438822

One clarification that I would offer, is that Sea-Way isn't really a "salvage yard." They are an NOS (new, old stock) warehouse for BRP. In fact, I have had them tell me that when you look up a part on shop.evinrude.com, that part might be in their warehouse - apparently the computer systems are tied.

Sanding and/or filing points is not recommended, but some folks do it. Trying to set the points on these motors "by eye," is not something that I would recommend. My own personal experience with them, is that the points settings needs to be exact. I have had occassions where a very slight difference, will make the difference between a coil that fires properly and one that won't.



???
 

OMC-boy5.5

Seaman
Joined
Aug 16, 2010
Messages
51
Re: Piston Rings for a OMC 5.5

Yea, I didn't really sand the points, just some really fine grit paper with a few strokes to get the crud off.

I just set the points by eye for now because I wanted to see it run, and it did seem put pretty well in comparison to my other old 5.5.
 
Top