barato2
Commander
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2010
- Messages
- 2,956
along with the testing thread, this is another i've been meaning to start for some time as i suspect we've all learned something the hard way that we'll do differently on tinnies #3, 4, 5,.........and like that thread, all opinions are welcome.........so here goes:
1. go back a few hours after you do a coat of epoxy or varnish, before it's fully dried hard, and trim off the drips with a utility knife or chisel....much easier than sanding em off later
2. if your old transom is too shot to be a good template, when you cut the transom, just rough out the upper edge an inch or 2 oversize, then glue sections up and drop in place in boat, so you can then mark an accurate upper edge that follows the alum skin closely
3. hunks of inverted alum L-channel make good stands for epoxied/varnished wood to sit on....do the non-visible side first, then flip it over and do the visible one
1. go back a few hours after you do a coat of epoxy or varnish, before it's fully dried hard, and trim off the drips with a utility knife or chisel....much easier than sanding em off later
2. if your old transom is too shot to be a good template, when you cut the transom, just rough out the upper edge an inch or 2 oversize, then glue sections up and drop in place in boat, so you can then mark an accurate upper edge that follows the alum skin closely
3. hunks of inverted alum L-channel make good stands for epoxied/varnished wood to sit on....do the non-visible side first, then flip it over and do the visible one
! It was right around the time of the changeover though so it may have been the older stuff that wasn't corrosive. I know it was really green compared to the new stuff. Either way, not my problem now.
