PL-88 load adapter

Arty76

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I have a 1995 Johnson 200hp Venom with no spark on all cylinders, the stator is new, the timer base dva output is .5 -.8 volts. To check power pack output my Seloc manual says to disconnect the primary lead to the coil and use a load adapter to check the voltage. Does leaving the primary lead connected to the coil and checking at that connection eliminate the need for the load adapter??
 

dingbat

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I have a 1995 Johnson 200hp Venom with no spark on all cylinders, the stator is new, the timer base dva output is .5 -.8 volts. To check power pack output my Seloc manual says to disconnect the primary lead to the coil and use a load adapter to check the voltage. Does leaving the primary lead connected to the coil and checking at that connection eliminate the need for the load adapter??
No.
The load adapter is used to mimic the resistance of the coil to eliminate the possibility of a compromised coil giving invalid test results.

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Arty76

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Thanks so much, so when it says to check the dva "connected", do I pierce the wires with the meter leads?
 

dingbat

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Thanks so much, so when it says to check the dva "connected", do I pierce the wires with the meter leads?
You see wire piercing in automotive applications, but as someone who builds critical application electronics, I cringe at the thought of piercing the insulation of a wire. It (can) compromises the integrity of the wire both electrically and environmentally.

There are a multitude of different types of adapters and test probes on the market. I typically use a gator clip probe on the constant (ground) then probe the connector or back shell with the appropriate sized test probe.
 

Arty76

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I've been dreading these electrical/electronic issues for a long time, expecting them the older my engine gets because I'm not very good at understanding some of this, but if the connector is together and it's a sealed connection, how do you probe it? And I'm still reading through the cdi troubleshooting guide to understand checking the power pack.
 

dingbat

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I've been dreading these electrical/electronic issues for a long time, expecting them the older my engine gets because I'm not very good at understanding some of this, but if the connector is together and it's a sealed connection, how do you probe it?
Connectors simply facilitate the installation, removal or servicing of individual components. Other than physical damage or moisture, there isn’t much that can go wrong

Nine times of ten, disassembling the connector(s) and visually inspecting for loose pins and signs of moisture and corrosion will suffice.

If in the rare case you need to test continuity thru a connector, an extension test cable can be used to go from termination points on the ends of the cable.

This is a fairly simple ignition. Testing the individual components is the process of elimination. Each component must be tested separately and exactly per the instructions. Otherwise you’re wasting your time.

Note: The motor will not start with a compromised starter. The starter must spin in excess of X rpm to start the motor. The figure of 350 -400 rpm sticks in my mind but wouldn’t swear by it. Been there, done that
 
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dingbat

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I've read at least 250 rpm, my starter is brand new.
The minimum is 550 CCA, 250 rpm.
The starter might be new but what about the battery and cables?

Have you tested to see what you’re cranking at now?

I’ve seen more than a couple of “new” components fail right out of the box over the years
 

Arty76

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That's very true about the new components, but I'm confident it's cranking fine, I cleaned all the connections when i put the new starter on, I don't know the actual rpms because my tach works intermittently, I'm getting the proper voltage from the stator to the power pack.
 
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