Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the key!

[EHouseHead]

Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the key!

1998 Evinrude Ocean Pro 175 2 Stroke on a 1995 Seaswirl Striper 2150 WAC
(part of the engine serial is missing we THINK it is a 1998 but may be a 1995-96)

My FIRST & INITIAL issue is a collapsed fuel bulb. We were out on the water after 2 straight days of the boat running perfect when 1 minute to being on plain we came to a halt.

I put in brand new fuel lines from the tank to the separator, from it to the bulb & to the engine. New fuel filter as well. I also disconnected the vent and made sure the vent hose was clean and clear by blowing it out with an air compressor. I go to pump the bulb but it just collapses and stays sucked in. I noticed if I slightly loosen the fuel filter (water separator) I hear "hissssss" air coming out like when opening a jar of tomato sauce. If I leave the filter kinda loose I can pump the ball and get more gas to flow to it and it gets somewhat harder and isn't collapsed but you can still tell its not getting full with gas to the point it is hard, and the boat wont run with the loose filter anyway.

THIS IS WHAT WAS HAPPENING WITH THE BOAT'S GAS TANK HOOKED UP AFTER INSTALLING THE NEW LINES AND ALL (BEFORE HOOKING UP THE PORTABLE GAS TANK WHICH YOU WILL READ IN A SECOND)...: The boat WAS starting first turn of the key and was idling on land. Idle seemed a little rough and smokey but I attributed that to the fact that the boat was converted from oil injected to now being premixed 50:1. I turned it off after a few minutes and then boom it wont start. I have to work the throttle, revving it to get it started and even doing so it takes upwards of 10 minutes and you can tell its idling rougher.

The ball was still imploded at this point yet I had the boat running 10-15 minutes on land, revving it up and all thinking maybe it is running off leftover gas in the lines but I think I used that up, so somehow it was still getting enough gas with the ball being flat. My gut tells me though, once it hits the water and you try taking off and getting up on plain and running around that its gunna crap out quickly. Just a feeling.

When this initial problem occurred it was running fine for the 3 mile long no wake zone, but when I got to open waters and started getting on plain it felt like i was hitting bottom, and passed it off as that being near the sandbars and all. We parked at the island and when we were on our way back I got up on plain for a few seconds and it just cut out sending me flying forward. I got it to start a few minutes later but only for a minute at idle and then dead again, had to call in seatow.

I have put on a new seperator aka fuel filter, new fuel line, made sure the vent line is clean and clear, checked the screen on the fuel pickup, checked the anti-siphon valved, and after all this is when I decided to just use a portable 6 gallon fuel tank for the time being since I have plans to take 6 friends to the island tomorrow. I figured I'd use the portable until I received more suggestions, things to check out, and/or have to end up bringing to a mechanic.

As if this problem hasn't been enough waste of money & 3 days of work and depressing and mind boggling I now have a new issue. I'm assuming it isn't related however I'm guessing this one is worse and is going to ground us for our plans tomorrow (Saturday)...

I got the 6 gallon portable tank. Filled it up with a couple gallons of the usual ethanol free. Premixed it, hooked it up to my bulb which obviously goes to the engine. VOILA! OMG the bulb gets hard. Just a few pumps and its gloriously full of gas and rock hard! That's what I have been looking for... "But wait, there's more"... I crank the engine...nada. I crank again, at the end of a 15 second cranking I get a lil' poof *sputter/backfire*. I crank again....poof. Okay I crank and work the throttle in neutral. Nope. Repeat...Vrooooom (for 3 seconds)... Repeat...VROOM for a few more seconds. This happens 4 or five times and starts to sound more promising. As I was saying go grab the starter spray I give it one more turn and **CLICK** . NOW here I am at the boat god's mercy. All I get is a single click when I turn the key. Sounds like the starting clicking I assume. Both batteries are fully charged.

SOMEONE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME WITH EITHER OR BOTH ISSUES! ANYTHING IS BETTER THAN NOTHING. IF I CAN GET PASSED THIS NEW *CLICK* PROBLEM AND GET IT TO CRANK I THINK I CAN GET IT TO TURN OVER USING THE PORTABLE GAS CONTAINER AND STARTER SPRAY SO I CAN AT LEAST TAKE MY FRIENDS TOMORROW.

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING FOR ME PLLLLLEEEEASSSEEE HELP I BEG OF YOU!

THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH,
DJ

 

[JB]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

First, try a different tank and line. Sounds like a blocked anti syphon valve.

Second, disconnect both ends of both battery cables and scrub them shiny, then reinstall.

Good luck, and please try to be more concise. It was very hard to try to mine your troubles out of your narrative, and I may have still gotten them wrong.

 

[wifisher]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

When you replaced the fuel line, were you sure to install the bulb in the correct direction?

 

[EHouseHead]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

In my narrative I brought out that I installed all new fuel line and the anti-syphon valve was fine. Also that right now I have the engine hooked directly to a portable gas container not the fuel tank in the boat but now it wont even crank... I will try your idea with the battery terminals, thanks!

 

[EHouseHead]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

When you replaced the fuel line, were you sure to install the bulb in the correct direction?

Yes the aarow is pointing toward the engine. Plus when I hooked up my portable tank the ball filled right up n got hard to no problem...

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

The portable tank scenario proves that you have a bad fuel restriction in your main fuel tank, actually you should have picked up on that due to the drawn in (flattened) fuel primer bulb.

(Fuel Anti Siphon Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Many of the later OMC V/6 engines incorporate a fuel restriction warning via a vacuum device attached to the powerhead. If the engine overheats, or if you have a fuel restriction, the warning is the same.... a steady constant beep.

NOTE... Only the V/6 & V/8 engines have the above "Fuel Restriction Warning". The warning horn will not sound on the other models.

The fact that a engine is not overheating, but the warning horn sounds off with a constant steady beep, and that the rpms drop drastically would indicate that the engine is starving for fuel due to a fuel restriction. Check the built in fuel tank where the rubber fuel line attaches to the tank fitting. That fitting is in all probability a "Anti Siphon" valve which is notorious for sticking in a semi closed position. It will be aluminum, about 2" long, and the insides of it will consist of a spring, a ball, and a ball seat. If this valve exists, remove it, knock out those inner components which will convert it to a straight through fitting, then re-install it. Hopefully that cures the problem.

The above procedure will cure a restriction problem with the anti siphon valve as stated. BUT, it may also allow fuel to drain backwards to the fuel tank when the engine is not running (siphoning backwards) due to the fact that the carburetors/fuel pump etc are higher than the fuel tank. This condition is not an absolute as the valves in the fuel primer bulb usually prevent this backwards siphoning problem. However.... if this does take place, the cure would be to install a new anti siphon valve.

The clicking of the starter solenoid....... Run good known jumper cables from the battery directly to the electric starter. If the starter cranks as it should, then obviously the starter is okay. Remove and clean all cables/wires associated with the electric starting system, this includes the battery terminals, solenoid and starter terminals, and also the battery ground wire at the powerhead. Be sure to clean the contacts of the components that the cables/wires attach to. A loose or tight but dirty connection will result in a voltage drop that results in the click you describe. If this cleaning doesn't fix that problem (and the battery is good and fully charged), replace the starter solenoid.

Pumping the throttle handle does absolutely nothing. Outboard carburetors do not have an auxiliary pump that squirts fuel down its throat..... pumping the handle simply opens and closes the throttle butterfly.

Starting procedure: Pump fuel primer bulb up hard. Leave the throttle handle in idle position..... your engine has the fast start feature which advances the timing automatically which in turn increases the idle starting rpm. Turn key to the START position and keep the key pushed in at the same time to engage the primer solenoid. When engine fires and starts, release the key to the ON position. You may need to push the key is from time to time when the engine is cold to keep the engine running.

(Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)

The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position. Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.

Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.

The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.

Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.

The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.

Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways. Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.

Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.

Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.

Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.

 

[bbabbs]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

As for the collapsed fuel bulb, I had a similar problem with my boat after I replaced all my fuel lines from bulb to top of tanks. I found that my new fuel line got twisted when I snaked it through the rear cable access opening near the fuel bulb. It's opening allowed bulb to pump up but not allow enough fuel to flow normally. I found it only after isolating each piece of the fuel supply system.

 

[EHouseHead]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

I posted a new thread for the starting problem I am having since it has nothing to do with the fuel bulb. But here is an update anyway since I mentioned the problem in this thread before....

I was attempting to start my engine and after several unsuccessful tries I went to turn the key to try again and all I hear is a single "click". It sounds like it is coming from the solenoid or the starter. The batteries are charge 100%, all wiring is free of corrosion and on tight on both the batteries and the solenoid. I hooked a voltmeter up to the solenoid and we have 12V going in. I hooked the voltmeter up to the terminal/post on the starter and turned the key and it was topping out at about 6.5 Volts. Does this mean the solenoid is bad, or could it be something else? Would the starter be making any noise or attempting to do something with only 6.5 volts or would it behave as it is and do nothing at all (or just a click if it is the starter clicking not the solenoid)? Is there a way to test the starter? Can I run jumper cables from the battery to the terminal/post on the starter to see if it tries to turn?

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Test the battery with a hydrometer....if it is flat, charge it, and then have the battery load tested.

 

[EHouseHead]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Test the battery with a hydrometer....if it is flat, charge it, and then have the battery load tested.

Not sure what you mean, the only time I have used a hydrometer was when I was making beer or wine . My charger shows both batters at a little over 13V 100% and when I put the battery tester on each one and turned the key the voltage didn't go below 9V with the key turned. Does this mean the batteries are okay or do I need to still run the tests you mentioned??

Thanks!

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Not sure what you mean, the only time I have used a hydrometer was when I was making beer or wine . My charger shows both batters at a little over 13V 100% and when I put the battery tester on each one and turned the key the voltage didn't go below 9V with the key turned. Does this mean the batteries are okay or do I need to still run the tests you mentioned??

Thanks!

You posted "I hooked a voltmeter up to the solenoid and we have 12V going in. I hooked the voltmeter up to the terminal/post on the starter and turned the key and it was topping out at about 6.5 Volts."

That voltage is too low, obviously. I'd just verify that the batteries are OK before troubleshooting the starter.

 

[EHouseHead]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Alright, gas bulb now gets hard as it should since I replaced the anti-siphon valve...THANKS!. Also I replaced the starter solenoid...didn't make any difference. However I beat the crap out of the starter with a hammer and it did start. I turned it off because it wasn't hooked up to a hose. I hooked it up to a hose and went to start it and it sounded like it wanted to but like the batteries were slowly dying. Put the charger on both, and they are both at 100%. I'm guessing it is the brushes are shot or just about shot in the starter. Could that or something else wrong with the starter fool you by making the similar sound of batteries slowly dying as you are trying to start the boat?

 

[jonesg]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Multiple threads going on here.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Alright, gas bulb now gets hard as it should since I replaced the anti-siphon valve...THANKS!. Also I replaced the starter solenoid...didn't make any difference. However I beat the crap out of the starter with a hammer and it did start. I turned it off because it wasn't hooked up to a hose. I hooked it up to a hose and went to start it and it sounded like it wanted to but like the batteries were slowly dying.

Maybe the batteries are talking and you aren't listening....:facepalm:

Put the charger on both, and they are both at 100%. I'm guessing it is the brushes are shot or just about shot in the starter. Could that or something else wrong with the starter fool you by making the similar sound of batteries slowly dying as you are trying to start the boat?

I am, not sure what you mean by "the charger says 100%".
I have never owned a charger that is capable of doing a load test, but if that is what you have, great.

If your charger does not have that capability, you have not verified the condition of the batteries.
I suggested that as the first step in troubleshooting this problem. If you don't take a methodical step-by-step approach, you are just going to end up changing out perfectly good parts...like the solenoid....

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Starter not functioning properly, then tapping on the starter causes it to function, indicates that the starter brushes are either sticking, worn down, or engaging a dirty armature commentator (sp). Remove the starter and dismantle it, it's not that complicated.

 

[ronsealdeath]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

I had the 'click' issue similar to you after my motor had been sat for the winter. I jumped the starter solenoid with a small piece of wire and it seemed to kick it into life and get power to the starter. Won't cost you anything to try it.

Cheers
Al

 

[LilRedNeckGirl]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Why would anyone run a water seperator BEFORE the primer bulb? that seperator strains down into the micron size. Try redoing the system and putting the seperator AFTER the primer so the added suction through the filter wont collapse the primer bulb.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

It is standard practice to have the fuel primer bulb as the very last item in the fuel line. If a water/fuel seperator is capable of causing the fuel primer bulb to go flat, either a severe restriction exists or the bulb is faulty. The primer bulb problem here was caused by a faulty anti siphon valve which has been corrected.

 

[EHouseHead]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Fuel problem solved (anti-siphon valve) Still not starting. Guess it has to be the starter. Both batteries checked out fine at Autozone. All wiring is good, brand new solenoid...

 

[dazk14]

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

Re: Please help asap! First a collapsed fuel bulb & now just "click" when i turn the

As noted above, a cascade of events. Bad anti-siphon, no gas, a ton of cranking and starter is toast.
You can buy an aftermarket starter and save money vs. BRP (under $100).
Using a jumper cable to apply 12v directly to the starter nut(avoid the threads) is a simple test (you may have already done this).
Curious, how does that 2150 handle the rough stuff and what MPH do you top out at with the 175?