Please help. Changed everything, still overheating!

beason

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Messages
338
Sorry in advance for the wall of text. I want to make sure i give as much info as i can to get the best advice possible. Thanks if advance for reading.

I took the boat out today after all the work i did, and it still overheated. Please help me figure out what else to check.

volvo Penta 5.0GXI in 2005 chaparral 220 with the duoprop outdrive.

overheated last time we were out. would get up just under 250 in the no wake/idle, but would cool down at speed. As soon as i throttle back down, it shoots up again.

List of things i changed..

circ pump. bearing had some play in them, and i was chasing a squeak.
idler arm. again chasing the squeak, and the square hole for the ratchet was busted.
thermostat. cheap and easy, possible cause of overheat.
raw water pump bearing, seal, o ring, and impeller. Went to change the impeller, (nothing wrong with it, thought maybe i'd spun the hub) and found the bearing was seized from a failed spline shaft seal. ordered the repair kit, and rebuilt. New O ring between housing halves as well. I see pictures of them with a paper looking seal too, but mine did not come with this. I thought this was my overheat problem, as ive read that the bad seal on the shaft would allow air into the system at idle.


Went out today, and it ran ok in the first no wake area around the ramp. opened her up, and temp slowly rose to 175 and leveled out. all is good. Got to second no wake area (marina on the river) and it started out fine, but soon started climbing fast. Pulled up to a dock there, and sat for a bit, looking around for a cause.

Checked the seal in the water hose attachment on the engine, it seems good.
no water dripping from the raw pump.

I did find that two of the raw water pump screws had fell out. two across from each other. I found one and put it back in, but couldnt find the other. I synched up a zip tie on the 4th hole, to see if it would hold temp, but it did not.


I went ahead and ordered 4 new screws, but i dont think that is the issue.

Runs at or just above 175 on the hose, no leaks from the raw pump. cold city water, it should run cooler i think. I did not run it on muffs. that may be my next troubleshooting. I got under there and looked around at the lower. The pickup tube seems to be in good shape. Water was pouring out the intake gills as well as the exhaust.

Im at a complete loss, the fam is loosing hope on the boat, Im already in $350 and about 8 hours of time, and im about ready to sell her. Please help me figure this one out. Could it be the screws on the raw pump? Something else? I have ordered new screws.

I have not destroyed an impeller on it, so i should not have fin bits blocking any passages, the risers and manis are 2 years old. i run salt, but the last 5 miles or so is brackish to fresh water river. Then i run it on the hose at home every time.
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,581
I went ahead and ordered 4 new screws, but i dont think that is the issue.
My bet is that this is your issue. You are getting air into your pump. I would put a clear hose between the thermostat housing and the hose feeding it from the pump to see how much air is in there.
 

beason

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Messages
338
I really hope so Bruce. I'm about at my limit.
 

beason

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Messages
338
well, im glad to report that i think i got it fixed. went out saturday, and even with temps close to 100f outside, it ran as it should. it got a little over 175 a couple of times but never over 3/4 of the gauge. mostly when i would throttle up after a long idle session. but would come right back down again afterward.
 

beason

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Messages
338
yes. i replaced all 4 screws on the raw water pump, and it seems to be working correctly now.
 
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