Please Vote: Is this Stator Bad?

[ribby1]

Hello;
1995 Johnson 150, SLEOM. Location: Colorado.
Note: this stator has two charge coils going to power pack.

I have been troubleshooting my ignition system, and to avoid a long post, will summarize:
With an adjustable spark gap tester (to ground). the sparks will jump:
Cylinders 1, 3, 5 = 1/2" gap (strong spark. Probably would go higher on gap).
Cylinders 2, 4, 6 = 1/4" gap (very weak spark).

Stator resistance (disconnected from power pack):
Charge coil for 1 ,3, 5 = 505 ohms (between coil leads).
Charge coil for 2 ,4, 6 = 507 ohms (between coil leads).
All charge coil leads to ground = open (no continuity).

Cranking charge coil voltage (DVA; stator disconnected from starboard power pack connector):
Charge coil 1, 3, 5 = 141V
Charge coil 2, 4, 6 = 131V

So, after my tests (with no other changes), I swapped the charge coil leads in the starboard
power pack connector. In other words, I moved the charge coil leads for cylinders 1 ,3, 5 to the power pack connector inputs for cylinders 2 ,4, 6 and vise versa.

With the charge coils swapped into the power pack, the weak spark moved to the opposite cylinder bank:
Cylinders 2, 4, 6 = 1/2" gap (strong spark. Probably would go higher on gap).
Cylinders 1, 3, 5 = 1/4" gap (very weak spark).

The magnets, inside the flywheel, are solidly mounted and strong.
They snap a screwdriver out of my hand when tested.
The stator is original OEM (0584981), and looks new. No heat discoloration, melted plastic, etc..

So, please vote:
Do you think this stator is bad?

I am just looking for some opinions from more experienced outboard mechanics (than me), before I pay close to $400 for a new stator.

Also, if you want to recommend any other tests, please let me know.

Thank you very much in advance for your help,

 

[GA_Boater]

Voting is no way to troubleshoot a problem.

What are you using for a procedure?

 

[Sea Rider]

If one bank within tech specs and the other not, seems will need to change the whole stator, motor will work much better, fire evenly and strong.... Who said that boating was a cheap water sport ?

Happy Boating​

 

[oldboat1]

I would suspect the power pack. CDI electronics has a troubleshooting guide: https://www.cdielectronics.com/support/

 

[ribby1]

Voting is no way to troubleshoot a problem.

What are you using for a procedure?

Thanks.
I am using the factory service manual for a procedure.
However, sometimes real world troubleshooting requires critical thinking beyond what a service manual specifies.
For example, in this case the service manual give a range of acceptable stator charge coil resistance ranges, and voltage outputs. Which my stator (barely) passes.
It gives no mention of what may be the issue if a person is seeing higher voltage, and associated spark quality, on one bank of cylinders versus the other.

I was hoping to get input (from experienced mechanics) on if my analysis, after performing the factory recommended tests, was sound,
I have a (semi) notebook full of tests and measurements on troubleshooting this ignition system, but did not wish to write a lengthy technical thread that nobody would finish reading.
Hence, I gave, what I estimate to be, applicable measurement values for my simplistic question.
Sorry I used the word "vote"...

Thank you.

 

[oldboat1]

Check procedures in the CDI instructions. I did not see any power pack resistance testing, but may have missed it. In any case, the CDI instructions may give you another lead or two.

 

[oldboat1]

Check against your J&E manual. Think it might indeed be the stator, based on your tests: https://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/7th-Edition-Troubleshooting-Guide_RS.pdf (should get you the online version -- long version, takes time to load.)

 

[ribby1]

Thank you oldboat1:
From the CDI document, page 63 (step 2) states:
"Swap the stator wire pairs to the other bank and see if the problem moves. If it does, the stator is bad".

This is exactly what I did, and the problem moved with the "bad" stator charge coil output.

Also, the fact that all downstream ignition components (power pack, ignition coils, spark plug wires, spark plugs). all worked well when connected to the "good" charge coil output, tells me those components are good.

In summary, I had not previously run across a "bad" stator charge coil output that tested good per the book. In this case, the stator tested good (although low), but there is enough variance between the two charge coil outputs that one charge coil pushes a spark across a 1/2" gap, whereas the other charge coil only pushes a spark across a 1/4" gap.
I can attest that the 1/4" gap bank has a history of fouling plugs and carbon buildup.
I hope this information may help someone in the future.

Thank you all for your input.

 

[oldboat1]

the p.63 reference is convincing (stator issue), imo. It changed my initial opinion.