Re: Plugs 65 HP Johnson, 1972
If you used a spark tester and didn't see signs of spark, the plug probably isn't the problem. Also, unless you know for sure that the spare coil that you hooked up is good, using it as a test won't tell you anything for sure. Although its a bit more work, what I usually do is to swap the coil with another from the engine that is known to be good. If the problem remains at the same cylinder, its not a coil problem, while if it moves to whever the #1 coil was placed, it probably is.
A bad powerpack could give you a problem on one cylinder, but so could a bad sensor coil in the timer base. From looking at the photo of your powerhead, you have the original, metal timer base. That makes the possibility of a bad sensor more probable.
Try this test on the sensor coils.
CHECKING SENSOR COIL
a. Disconnect sensor leads from power pack terminals #8, #9, #10 and #11, common lead. Connect ohmmeter (LO ohms scale) to each sensor coil lead (white with black stripe). Connect other lead to the common lead (black with white satripe), meter should read 8.5 ohms plus or minus 1.0 ohm.
b. With sensor leads still disconnected from power pack, connect ohmmeter (HI ohms scale) alternately between each sensor and ground. Infinity reading on each sensor indicates good sensor. Zero reading indicates leads or sensor coil is shorted to ground and should be replaced.
c. The sensor coil and timer base are serviced as a unit.
While you are doing this, you may as well test the stator (charge coils) too. Follow this instruction.
CHECKING CHARGE COIL
a. Disconnect charge coil lead. Connect ohmmeter (HI ohms scale) to charge coil lead (brown) from power pack terminal #4 and brown/orange lead from terminal #5. Meter should read 900 ohms plus or minus 30 ohms.
b. Check for broken leads.
c. Charge coils are part of staor and can not be serviced separately.
If you get a bad reading on the #1 sensor coil, that will coincide with the lack of spark on the #1 coil, and you can be pretty sure what the problem is. You may also get out of tolerence readings on the other sensor coils.
If the timer base is OK across the board, the power pack becomes suspect.
You will probably find the stator to be OK, because they usually are not the culprit, when only one cylinder's ignition system is having a problem.