Re: Plywood for Floor - Resin Coating
HUmm, I have designed and built a number of boats and will chip in an observation or two. On my floor builds I use underlayment ply, it's cheap and has waterproof glue for basements, top side good. I then get some anti-freeze, the poison to everything kind, which is applied after cutting out the floor panel sizes and being fitted for installation. The anti-freeze stops rot !! Then you let it dry for a week till fully absorbed, wood pores open better, then glass it in. No need to replace that floor, ever. Over that I use the real epoxy our boating club buys, about 1hr set up, for about $60 a gallon, not polyester, mix as directed except slightly warm mix under a lamp so it sinks in. I have used cloth on power boats for heavy traffic, none on lapstrake hulls, makes varnishing waay easier, and the hull tougher. I have some Benjamin Moore M95 OO epoxy thinner, that I use if the epoxy is too thick with wood flower, or Cabo-sil additives and want to slow the fillet areas from going off, before they sink in and lock up. I have had good luck with wiring the joining panels, and doing the fillets at the same time. Just press the cloth strips over the firm fillet before it sets up, and get the air out with a cheap 2in. chip brush like Harbor Freight carries by the box. If you are "seaming" upside down, cover your hair with a knit cap, use goggles, and don't sing along with the radio.
Just more input, Have Fun, Cal
Is epoxy Tough enough? My trailer axle tore fully off the rails at 60 on a curve, a 17ft. cabin boat that I built from scratch slid down a bank on the rails, and flipped a 115 Merc 6cyl vertical,hull at 45 deg. angle down hill. The fuel tanks did not pull up, batteries stayed in place, zero hull/transom damage. It took a cherry picker to separate stuff and get the pieces aligned on a flatbed truck to haul it to my mechanic. Full recovery, new axle, except we never found where one wheel and tire went, the one that blew.