Points needed on safely changing my coupler

[silverga01]

I'm just about ready to change the coupler out on my boat, I have my new coupler, a service manual for guidance, and an alignment tool on the way. So that brings me to a few questions now.

I have a 73 Century with the 3.0 liter 140HP mercruiser. Where can I safely hoist the motor from? My plan is to rent an engine hoist from the local tool rental company, they have a large unit with a 1200 pound capacity that'll hoist up to 96 inches off the ground. That should be enough to clear the height of my transom. I'm just wondering where to hoist the motor from without damaging it or hurting myself.

Second question, how do I clear the back of the boat itself? My engine sits tucked into the transom area, with plenty above it, so it can't come straight out. I would need to get it suspended a bit I would think, then bring it forward to remove it. I'd sure love tips on this. I'll attach a picture to show how the motor sits in the boat now.

My Clymer's can't really help me on these questions, just the general business of getting the motor and drive to work, not particulars to my make and model.

 

[silverga01]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

Ok, I'll try again with the pics. d

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

You will need to remove the padded area above the motor first .should have been a lifting eye mounted to the port side of the motor in the front .the rear one should be by the bell housing stbd side.The fromt mount has been craftily modified too.

 

[silverga01]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

The padding is already gone. But that was only an inch or two thick anyway. It just lifts off. Still doesn't help much though with trying to get it past the fiberglass. I can't lift straight up, and only half the motor is accessible right now.

You say it looks like something was modified? How so? This is an old boat, older then I, and I've only had it for a short time - enough for everything to need replaced before I even got a ride out of it. NEVER buy from family. :devil:

Again, any help is appreciated. I'm new to all this.

 

[silverga01]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

bump d

 

[Blk-n-Blu]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

You may be able to install the new coupler without having to clear the motor over the transom, work inside the boat. Another option could be lowering the trailer by removing the tires and putting it on SUITABLE dollys8)

 

[silverga01]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

You may be able to install the new coupler without having to clear the motor over the transom, work inside the boat. Another option could be lowering the trailer by removing the tires and putting it on SUITABLE dollys8)

Yeah, I'd already thought of not taking it out of the boat entirely if at all possible. But my main question is still not one of clearing it over the top of the boat, but actually getting that motor out of the engine bay. It sits more then half its length under cover of the transom. How do I lift it out of position when the entire back half is still sheltered and inaccessible? Will I have to find some awkward angle? Or lift the front and try to support the entire motor from the front til I have it removed enough to get to the rear? It just seems it needs to be brought forward more then up. I'd still like ideas on how to clear this out of the engine bay area I guess.

I guess I could always sawzall the transom top out. lol, j/k. o

 

[Boomyal]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

Hard to have an opinion without a clear picture of the construction above the motor.

 

[northvanwatertaxi]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

I made my own hoist for 30 bucks it lifted my 700 lb v8
I used a comealong 30 and 4-12' 2x10s for the gables and 2-10' 2x10s for the beam, just make an X frame on either side and put the beam on top of the x make sure you make a small cut for the 4x 10 beam and i used a long bolt in the middle of the x
then once the railings are off just pull the boat away.
also maybe the floor is removable and you can slide the ngine forward? anyway I took my engine in and out alone
not that hard

 

[northvanwatertaxi]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

another thing that makes it easy is if you remove the leg first of course and check your bellows, bearing etc because now is the time

 

[silverga01]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

I'll be renting a 1200 pound hoist for 35 bucks for a weekend. Figure that's good enough for me.

Okay, someone mentioned I need better shots of the boat construction to be able to know how to advise me on getting the motor out of it's position. Here's a few new ones. Hope they show the right details.

Any help is appreciated.

Also, where could I get the eyelets to lift the motor from? Someone pointed out that my engine doesn't have either anymore.

 

[ctrlaltdl]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

I just pulled my 3.0L this week with a 2-ton harbor freight engine hoist with a engine leveler. It lifted up to 95" which was plenty high enough to pull it out of my 91 17' Chris Craft. It took me about an hour and a half.

I had to use the hoist from the side and it was barely long enough. In fact the hydraulic cylinder was rubbing on the side of the boat. So take that in to consideration when you use a engine hoist.

I original planned on doing the same as northvanwatertaxi did, but I was pleasently surprised that my engine hoist was big enough.

Yours looks like it is going to be a little more fun. The engine isn't as easy to get to, but at least you don't have to pull it all the way out.

 

[edwardh1]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

the boat designer should be beaten up

 

[silverga01]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

Thanks for the input Ctrlaltdl. I'll have to go to the rental place and measure how far it can extend. I too figured I'd place the hoist on the side of the boat and do it that way, might make it easier to pull out.

edwardh1... LOL. That's a classic right there. I feel about the same way.


Still looking for more advice, and can someone point me in the right direction of buying the lifting points?

 

[fishnfiend]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

Since that rear cap is covered by the pad anyway after the pad is reinstalled, you might consider cutting out about a 2 foot section above the motor to give yourself more working room to get the motor out. Save the piece you cut out and put a piano hinge on the back of the darn thing that would allow you to just flip it up to inspect the transom and rear of your motor. If you use a hinge on the transom side, just glass some "shelves" under the port and starboard sides of your cutout, and you've improved youe motor access. Have fun.

 

[tommays]

Re: Points needed on safely changing my coupler

I would say the carb needs to be removed to give you some working room

The riser way cause some clearance problems also if you leave it on


The big problem i see is that you will cant move it forward with out hitting the floor

You will probley need to rig it so it can be tilted up in the front as its lifted so it clears the deck and can be moved forward

When i move a machine part like that i use 2 small chain hoists 1 holding the front and 1 the rear so i can lift and tilt it with control

Tommays