oops!
Supreme Mariner
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2007
- Messages
- 12,932
Re: Polyester resin or epoxy resin
i allways use a csm under the 1708.
the thing about 1708 is the long strands of matt on the back.
the real csm has shorter strands and more of them.....so it will tend to cling to a substraight better than the long indivivual strands of the stuff on the back of 1708.
plus....since there is more hairs in csm......the hair runs in many different directions. this will increase the bond to a substraight.
what we are trying to eliminate is, ....is resin rich areas.. we want to keep even the smallest resin pool out of the picture......we want as much resin soaked glass to touch the substraght, but not resin alone. and no air.
.........i agree with yd that some resins are really thick.......also if the resin is cold, its thick......in the hull extension thread....you will see pics of me warming up a 5 gallon pail of resin in the sunlight of a glass door. this was to thin the resin.
on coating a piece of plywood.........coat it with resin catylized cold first....let it get tacky.....then cat at 2% and go for it with the csm.
what this will do is allow the resin to permeate the wood, start to kick, then when the csm is added it will be a good chemical bond to the just tacking resin that is actually now inside the wood. this will be the best water proofing........and the best bond.....you wont rip this lay up off with plyers.......the wood will fail before the bond.
i allways use a csm under the 1708.
the thing about 1708 is the long strands of matt on the back.
the real csm has shorter strands and more of them.....so it will tend to cling to a substraight better than the long indivivual strands of the stuff on the back of 1708.
plus....since there is more hairs in csm......the hair runs in many different directions. this will increase the bond to a substraight.
what we are trying to eliminate is, ....is resin rich areas.. we want to keep even the smallest resin pool out of the picture......we want as much resin soaked glass to touch the substraght, but not resin alone. and no air.
.........i agree with yd that some resins are really thick.......also if the resin is cold, its thick......in the hull extension thread....you will see pics of me warming up a 5 gallon pail of resin in the sunlight of a glass door. this was to thin the resin.
on coating a piece of plywood.........coat it with resin catylized cold first....let it get tacky.....then cat at 2% and go for it with the csm.
what this will do is allow the resin to permeate the wood, start to kick, then when the csm is added it will be a good chemical bond to the just tacking resin that is actually now inside the wood. this will be the best water proofing........and the best bond.....you wont rip this lay up off with plyers.......the wood will fail before the bond.