possable replacement for the shift interupter switch??????????????

[Bt Doctur]

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V7-1A27D8-207 HONEYWELL Switch Snap Action N.O. SPST Roller Lever Quick Connect 5A 277VAC 0.84N Screw Mount View Data Sheet Authorized Distributor

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In Stock: 443 can ship today

 

[funk6294]

Certainly looks a lot like it!!!

 

[johnkom]

Looks too small. I have a spare, but can't find it to compare. Maybe you can make it work regardless.

JK

 

[Scott Danforth]

Stock switch is either Honeywell or Cherry. However they are a micro limit switch as shown

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Back in the late '80s, I worked in the Bronx for the United Van Lines warehouse, 'n We handled tons of rack, 'n rail filing systems,....
Electric motors, switchin' relays, 'n limit switches,...
Tons of 'em look exactly like the ole Merc switch,...
But,.....
On some the screw holes were in different places,....
Others normally open,. or closed, or whatever's, different wirin' hook ups, etc. you name it, all seemed to be a tiny bit,... Different,....

To date, I've managed to go dig one outa my piles of junk when I needed one,.... so far,....

Suppose if I had to, 'n was spendin' somebody else's money, I'd just get the Merc retrofit,....

 

[gm280]

I have zero knowledge of what the typical shift interrupter switch looks like, but if that switch is close, most any handy guy can fit it to suffice on their engine. That is part of the ability to fit things to work that tons of guys have. Improvising is the key. And A lot of those switches have both NO and NC options on them. JMHO!

 

[fishrdan]

Possibly, you would have to check the switch dimensions to see if everything matches up, body thickness, arm length and hole spacing.

Like gm280 mentioned, I cobbled up a roller arm switch to replace my MC-1's bad switch, but I had to cobble up an adapter plate so it would fit. One of the screw holes was correct, but the switch was longer so i had to make a plate. The switch was thicker than OEM and with the additional mounting plate thickness, the roller wasn't hitting the 'V" properly, so I had to tweak the arm a bit to get it to ride in the center, offset the arm to one side of the switch. My switch has an aluminum arm, so it was relatively easy to offset bend the arm, easier than a SS arm would have been....

I posted it up a couple years ago, buried in the archives now......