possible to wire.....

[mudslinging79]

OK, I have a boat, and 2 outboards, both electric start etc. one is a 1972 18 horse, the other is a 1956? 35 horse. the 35 horse has the separate solonoid box, whereas the 18 horse has the components under the motor cover. my question, is it possible to wire the 18 to the remote box and lose the crap under the cowl, and has anyone done this...? my reasoning is for a quick change, just swap electrical quick plugs, and eliminating a dual set of wires from the keyswitch back.

 

[GA_Boater]

What do you have? A Merc and an Evinrude? Two Johnsons?

Are both motors on remotes?

 

[mudslinging79]

ones a Johnson, ones a evinrude. both wire disconnects are different shape n location. on the side by the shifter on the 35, in front under the mix knob on the 18.

 

[GA_Boater]

One remote and one tiller? Or both tillers?

 

[mudslinging79]

both remote, 18 has tiller.

 

[GA_Boater]

So two remotes with the associated throttle and shift cables, 4 total running from the remotes to the motors.

What's the deal with having two sets of harnesses from the remote to each motor. All you would eliminate is one solenoid under the cowl of one motor and a couple of wires. And you would need to add some switching arrangement to choose which motor to crank or shut off. The wiring from the solenoid box to the motors has to be rewired.

I say leave things alone instead of adding unneeded complexity with no benefit. If the solenoid box burns up, both motors are dead. You have redundancy now.

 

[mudslinging79]

physically have enough room for 1 motor mounted. controls are already mounted on boat. solenoid box would be permanent to boat. was thinking one set of wires going into box, 2 sets out of box depending on which motor I was gonna mount would decide on the pigtail used, as they are different fittings.

 

[GA_Boater]

Why didn't you say that. I was under the impression both motors are mounted.

It isn't as easy as you want to make it. Every swap is still going to need throttle and shift cables removed from the motor and reinstalled on the other motor. The control cable swap is going to be the time consuming part of the job.

Why not pick one of the two motors as a permanent solution? Save the other motor in the shed for backup if needed.

 

[mudslinging79]

controls are all quick release. I don't haul the boat with the motor on it, swapping one for the other isn't a big hassle.

 

[Chris1956]

As long as both have the same ignition system (i.e. points), you should be able to make a single, common connection, for most motor functions. You will need to wire the external solenoid box directly to the 18HP for starter connection (bypassing the solenoid under the cowling) and ign killer wire. If you have an electric choke, that will need to be wired as well. The only thing that could be incompatible would be the external voltage regulator from the older motor, if you have a charging system on that 35HP motor.

How often do you change motors?

 

[mudslinging79]

they both have the same wiring, just plugs are different shapes, and the 18 has it all under the vowel. I'll swap them on my mood and depending on the situation, fishing, I'll run the 18, if I have a heavy load then the 35, etc. figured it would be nice to have options on which motor I run.
thought of cutting the wiring about 5 foot from the 18 horse plug, and wiring it to the wiring box for the 35. was just wondering if it was feasable, or a mistake before I got too deep.

 

[Chinewalker]

Those wiring harnesses and boxes are getting hard to find, and the new repro ones are very pricey. Any mods I would do should be reversible.

 

[mudslinging79]

box can be reversed, looking again at the pigtail that plugs into the motor.... gonna need another male connector. wiring on the switch side is hashed, toast, fried, gone, kaput, junk. the motor side is OK.

 

[S.A. Baker]

I think you need another boat!

 

[mudslinging79]

now you tell me after I take out the bad flooring...