Possibly seized motor?

[jmav970]

I just got my boat out of storage after 6 years (long story) it was fully winterized, Sta-bil in the gas, fogged, straight antifreeze, etc.
can’t get it to turn, didn’t want to try to hit the starter just in case it was seized and destroy it, so I pulled the plugs (no rust, no water), sprayed some Sea Foam Deep creep into the cylinders and then topped off with Marvel Mystery Oil, now letting it soak for a day or two. My problem is, how do I turn it over manually? I tried the alternator and it spins free, tried the circ water pump pulley and it spun free also, the belt and the crank pulley did not however. I can’t find a way to turn the crankshaft pulley, is there a tool, tip or trick, or can I put it in gear and try to turn it from the prop but or prop shaft? Just seeing if there are ways to check before tearing things apart. Thanks!

 

[tank1949]

I'd use a special oil pump primer distributor tool and drill to pressurize or force oil to journals and pushrods, before I would do anything. Make sure starter isn't froze up and you have GOOD WIRING CONNECTIONS and strong BATTERY.

 

[Mcfltfyter]

So basically, you have no reason to believe it is seized, you are just worried?

 

[jmav970]

So basically, you have no reason to believe it is seized, you are just worried?

Aside from the fact I can’t get it to turn/move in any way, yeah, I’m worried.

 

[jmav970]

I'd use a special oil pump primer distributor tool and drill to pressurize or force oil to journals and pushrods, before I would do anything. Make sure starter isn't froze up and you have GOOD WIRING CONNECTIONS and strong BATTERY.

I’ll look into doing that, thanks!

 

[Mcfltfyter]

Is there a crank bolt you can put a wrench on? You could probably get it to turn with the pulley bolts, just don't be too hard on those. If it does turn, I'd just kill the ignition and crank it until it has oil pressure. I don't think there is much difference between a year and 6 years as far as oil in the journals are concerned.

 

[nola mike]

Is there a crank bolt you can put a wrench on? You could probably get it to turn with the pulley bolts, just don't be too hard on those. If it does turn, I'd just kill the ignition and crank it until it has oil pressure. I don't think there is much difference between a year and 6 years as far as oil in the journals are concerned.

I'd rather strip out an alternator pulley bolt than my crankshaft. There's a tool that bolts to the balancer you can use. Alternatively I've replaced the balancer pulley bolts with longer bolts and then used a pry bar to turn the balancer.

 

[Mcfltfyter]

I'd rather strip out an alternator pulley bolt than my crankshaft. There's a tool that bolts to the balancer you can use. Alternatively I've replaced the balancer pulley bolts with longer bolts and then used a pry bar to turn the balancer.

You would break the bolt long before you stripped the crank, and if you broke the bolt, you'd just trade that crank in as a core or have your machine shop remove it for $10.

 

[achris]

You would break the bolt long before you stripped the crank, ...

So now I'm wondering how all those stripped cranks I've seen (after people tried to turn the crank using the front bolt) got stripped... Haven't seen any broken bolts...

BTW, those crank snout bolts are grade 8.8. The crank will strip long before the bolt will break...

Chris

 

[Scott Danforth]

You would break the bolt long before you stripped the crank, and if you broke the bolt, you'd just trade that crank in as a core or have your machine shop remove it for $10.

wrong. you are so wrong on this. the chevrolet based engines only have a 5/8" bolt in the soft cast iron. the threads in the crank will strip out every time before the bolt breaks. the bolt torque limit for the plain bolt (non plated, grade 8) is at about 200 ft-lbs, the rating on the crank bolts for a chevrolet is 65 ft-lbs and the threads strip at about 80 ft-lbs

they make a special sprocket for turning the crank by the key way to prevent breaking the bolt if you want to turn the motor over on a stand when you are building it.

you never try to turn a fully assembled motor over, much less one that you think is seized.

every machine shop I have ever worked with will never take a crank in trade if the snout bolt is stripped out.

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[Scott06]

I just got my boat out of storage after 6 years (long story) it was fully winterized, Sta-bil in the gas, fogged, straight antifreeze, etc.
can’t get it to turn, didn’t want to try to hit the starter just in case it was seized and destroy it, so I pulled the plugs (no rust, no water), sprayed some Sea Foam Deep creep into the cylinders and then topped off with Marvel Mystery Oil, now letting it soak for a day or two. My problem is, how do I turn it over manually? I tried the alternator and it spins free, tried the circ water pump pulley and it spun free also, the belt and the crank pulley did not however. I can’t find a way to turn the crankshaft pulley, is there a tool, tip or trick, or can I put it in gear and try to turn it from the prop but or prop shaft? Just seeing if there are ways to check before tearing things apart. Thanks!

Pull the drive to make sure it is not the gimbal bearing u joints or drive that is seized

its nit uncommon to have water in the bellows, if it sat for 6 years the ginbal and ujoints might be siezed.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I just got my boat out of storage after 6 years (long story) it was fully winterized, Sta-bil in the gas, fogged, straight antifreeze, etc.
can’t get it to turn, didn’t want to try to hit the starter just in case it was seized and destroy it, so I pulled the plugs (no rust, no water), sprayed some Sea Foam Deep creep into the cylinders and then topped off with Marvel Mystery Oil, now letting it soak for a day or two. My problem is, how do I turn it over manually? I tried the alternator and it spins free, tried the circ water pump pulley and it spun free also, the belt and the crank pulley did not however. I can’t find a way to turn the crankshaft pulley, is there a tool, tip or trick, or can I put it in gear and try to turn it from the prop but or prop shaft? Just seeing if there are ways to check before tearing things apart. Thanks!

if you dont want to use the crank socket to turn the motor (requires removing the damper)

you can get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Proform-6678...ocphy=9012287&hvtargid=pla-569646238770&psc=1

or you can pull the starter, use a pry bar on the flywheel teeth. if it doesnt move, pull the engine

so how was it "fully winterized" 6 years ago? fully drained, then anti-freeze added? or was anti freeze sucked up the muffs?

 

[tank1949]

You would break the bolt long before you stripped the crank, and if you broke the bolt, you'd just trade that crank in as a core or have your machine shop remove it for $10.

Years ago, I learned the hard way not to rely on that bolt to turn engine, unless plugs are out (no compression) and then I'd pray.

 

[Mcfltfyter]

I was wrong about the factory bolt breaking, but the all thread installation tool will break. There are 2 reasons people strip cranks, attempting to install the balancer with the factory bolt or turning the crank through compression.

I don't know if boat guys know that gm hasn't always threaded their cranks, and you'd have to hammer the balancer on. Having a balancer bolt is a luxury.

I do feel like there is more to this story that would lead one to believe it is seized.

 

[Mcfltfyter]

the chevrolet based engines only have a 5/8" bolt in the soft cast iron.

I don't recall what size the bolt is, but 5/8" is absolutely wrong. I not even certain it is 3/8", could be smaller.

 

[jmav970]

Well it turned! No idea if I was over worried or the MMO did it’s magic, got 3 3/8-24 bolts and threaded them into the balancer, used a pry bar, very little pressure and it turned. Shot MMO out the spark plug holes all over the engine compartment! LOL but I got at least 2 full rotations by hand, no noise, no grinding, really smooth. So now I’m on to why it won’t start. For another time if I can’t find the issue. Thanks you all for the comment and suggestions!

if you dont want to use the crank socket to turn the motor (requires removing the damper)

you can get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Proform-6678...ocphy=9012287&hvtargid=pla-569646238770&psc=1

or you can pull the starter, use a pry bar on the flywheel teeth. if it doesnt move, pull the engine

so how was it "fully winterized" 6 years ago? fully drained, then anti-freeze added? or was anti freeze sucked up the muffs?

I drained it, took off the water hose and poured straight antifreeze into it until it was completely filled, opened my drain lines to make sure, then topped it back off through the hose