(Possibly stupid) questions about motor for 12-foot aluminum boat, from a rookie...

mofo83

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Just picked up a 12-foot aluminum boat, now slowly looking for an inexpensive (sub $300) motor on Craigslist, that will allow me to casually putt around local lakes. From what I've read on iboats and elsewhere, I've gathered that within my price range, I should probably be looking for something in the 4 ? 10HP range, 2 stroke, 70's era, and Johnson/Evinrude/Mercury (so that parts are easy to find.)

A few questions that I have after searching through Craigslist for a few days:

1. Is it common for a normal, cheaper, older outboard not to have a reverse gear!?! Should I avoid motors without reverse (I have seen a few.) Are these special-use motors only (like for trolling?)

2. Are "kickers" and "trolling motors" just interchangeable terms for regular outboards, or are they geared differently with different props, and I should avoid?

3. Should I definitely stick to motors that are already in good 100% running condition? I'm pretty handy (repair my lawnmower engine), but are there just so many things that can go wrong that I should just avoid anything that needs repair?

4. Should I avoid really old engines altogether (pre-1970ish)?

5. Should I just get some nice oars instead (haha)?

Anything else I should look for... or avoid!?

Thanks!
 

60sboater

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No reverse sounds like a very old and/or very small motor. A small motor could swivel around to give reverse propulsion. A kicker is slang for a small o/b usually used as a back-up to a larger one. It would be used to get you back if the main one crapped-out.

Pre 1970 motors are simpler but not many folks work on them except for the fans that love them. They are easier/simpler tech with points ignitions. The newer ignitions seem to have many more problems with stuff going bad. By the mid 70s,all the OMC and Mercury motors had gone to electronic ignition.

Try to get one that is running. I work on mowers too and they are much easier to fix and have no water pumps to break.
 

60sboater

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Buy a new or used elec trolling motor and marine battery. Carry that along in your boat in case the gas one dies.
 

JimS123

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"Old" is subjective. I currently run a 53 and a '64 on 2 of my boats. I run a 2009 and a 1984 on others.

A gearshift is a relatively new invention. True "old" motors had no reverse, some of the smaller HP models had 360 rotation, so reverse was the motor turned around backwards. I've owned and run many, and for a small 12 footer I would have no problem using one again.

A trolling motor is usually referring to an electric model. A "kicker" usually refers to a second smaller auxiliary motor. What you want could be referred to as a kicker.

Whenever I buy a used motor, no matter how old, it gets a complete reconditioning. You're going out in the water and can't have a failure. Its not like coasting to the side of the road and walking home or calling AAA. Plugs, points, oil, water pump etc. is worth about $250 at a dealer, or maybe $100 with a manual and DIY. That's for an already 100% running motor. If id doesn't run, who knows what it will cost.

Condition is everything, but for a used daily driver I wouldn't go older than about 1977.

You need oars no matter what motor you buy. It is a mandatory accessory if you plan to pass the USCGA courtesy inspection.
 

mofo83

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Thanks y'all. I'll take all that into consideration.

(And, I already do have oars, I was just kidding!)
 

Tinker12

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I like to use a 9.9 mercury good little motor for that boat Mir was 2 stroke had reverse and started first pull good power to we aight and you can find them every where look for the thunder bolt ignition I had good luck with it for many years
 

MTboatguy

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I run a 1967 Mercury model 110 9.8 hp on my 14 footer and it works just fine for putting around the lake and fishing, I also have a 12v electric motor that moves it along just fine, the 67 mercury is easy to start, easy to work on and runs like a champ.
 

gm280

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I too would look for some thing from the mid 70's forward and probably a 9.8 to 15HP model for your hull. The small engine is easy to work on and can be run for hours on so little fuel. And regardless the model, you will have to service them yearly anyways so you either learn how too or spend lots of money for somebody else to do the work. Most on here do their own repairs and maintenance... The mid 70'd type engines still used points and condensers and were very easy to keep running. So I hope you find something you can do a little work on or repair and happy boating... JMHO!
 

mofo83

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Thanks for the input.

Should I definitely stay away from motors that are less than 5 horse? I see a few nice 3.5 Seahorse and the like. I don't care if I can get going really fast, but I also don't want to be going frustratingly slow, with ducks passing me by! :)
 

Tinker12

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Yah that's what I had sorry mine was a 110 9.8 thunder bolt I would stay away from any thing smaller
 

MTboatguy

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Thanks for the input.

Should I definitely stay away from motors that are less than 5 horse? I see a few nice 3.5 Seahorse and the like. I don't care if I can get going really fast, but I also don't want to be going frustratingly slow, with ducks passing me by! :)

3.5 is going to be frustratingly slow, even if it was just you on the boat, let alone your wife, kid and supplies.
 

JimS123

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Thanks for the input.

Should I definitely stay away from motors that are less than 5 horse? I see a few nice 3.5 Seahorse and the like. I don't care if I can get going really fast, but I also don't want to be going frustratingly slow, with ducks passing me by! :)
You said "local Lakes" Its all about the size.

When I was a kid we used to launch our 13 footer in the middle of our local lake. From the ramp we could see both ends of the lake. All we had was a 3.5 Seahorse and we thought it was the best thing since sliced bread. When we moved to bigger water we got a Merc Super 10, and it seemed so fast it was scary. Then, when we went back to the old lake to 10 was boring because we could go from one end of the lake to the other in just a few minutes. Boat rides are supposed to be an all day affair.

I think a 7.5 might be a good compromise on your 12 footer. A 9.9 if the price is right, but a 15 would be overkill.
 

ondarvr

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First, any small motor will move a 12' aluminum boat, even the smallest electric motor. Any of the small cheap single cylinder motors will work, but they tend to be louder and vibrate, some so bad it will drive you crazy quickly. So your best bet is a two cylinder motor, some older 3, 4, and 6hp motors are twins and work well. As the motors get older the price levels off, there is some older junk out there for more than newer much better motors, just keep looking.

A 6hp might get it on plane with just you, but probably not if you take a buddy, a 9.9 can be scary fast on some hulls if there's not much of a load in the boat. Again, the performance depends on the exact hull you have.



1. Many small cheap motors don't have reverse, it works OK, but you can do better.

2. Like already stated, trolling normally means electric, and kicker means gas, but this can be somewhat regional, so check the details of the add. There are differences in some small gas motors, but in your price range you won't be coming across them.

3. Parts cost money, and even old parts can be expensive, so even replacing simple items can turn a cheap motor into a money pit. There are just too many good running motors out there at the right price to mess with someone elses junk.

4. It totally depends on the exact motor, 6 hp J/E from the 60's to the last ones made in the 2000's are great motors, 9.9's weren't good until almost 1980, so skip any of the older ones. Older Mercs have more issues and the parts are harder to find, so I'd say 80's or newer on them. Don't go for any off brand in your price range, it will be junk.

Before you give the seller any cash, the motor must run, start easily, idle well, shift, and not have any redneck modifications. Promises don't mean anything, every motor out there "ran well before it was put away", so that statement means nothing (actually it means, this motor will cost you a great deal of time and money to get running, and will still be junk".
 
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oldboat1

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If you work on your lawnmower, will bet you will do fine on an outboard -- wouldn't rule out pre-70 motors. To get a small motor into running shape, I usually figure it will cost about $130 in parts if there is nothing major ('50s-'60s motors, for example). It's easier to comment on specific motors -- main point initially is that you need to be able to maintain the motor yourself if you are on a budget. And you may end up with different motors for different purposes.
 

MTboatguy

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I never have had any trouble finding parts for my pre 70 Mercury, seems like everybody carries them as well as ebay has a lot of parts for it also.
 

60sboater

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Note: FWIW,Mercury's last year for points ignition on those small engines was '69 and full electronic CDI in '74. 70-73 was the somewhat strange Phasemaker hybrid of points and electronics. OMC took longer to go electronic...not sure when. I have a 72 Johnson 25hp with points.

My first boat was a 12' aluminum semi-v with a Mark 10 Mercury which got stolen in 69,then I got a 1960 Merc 150 (15hp). It was rated for 10hp max and was really fast with the 15.

A 6-10 hp would do pretty well if it's a lightweight. My 12' was only 110 pounds.
 

oldboat1

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yup. and NAPA remains a source for old OMC parts, so some comfort in that too if new to the sport.

[merc and Chrysler/Force too, for that matter. just not a huge issue, IMO]
 
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MTboatguy

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Now my Tohatsu, 18 hp has been a real pain in the you know what to find parts for!
 

mofo83

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Thanks for all the input. I'm seeing lots of what you're all describing in the $400 - $500 dollar range, which is more than I want to spend right now.

No rush though. Now that I know more of what to look for, I can keep my eyes open and find something at least before next season...

And, funny you should mention the old "It ran before being stored X years ago" line. I've read that about 100 times I'd guess!
 
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