post rebuild problems 1967

shipwreck

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Evinrude 1967 60 hp sport four model 60733

Will not start..seem to no fuel ( i have spark all four plugs).
Took apart crab blew out and tested needle seat..test ok
Note i repacked low speed needles (high fixed)

Question after repacking low speed needles should they be set, ( not how should they be set) just to start engine? if seated to far in engine will not start?...that what think is going on

I pulled plugs and can't smell an fuel.
I turned the needles out i had set all the way in and 1 1/2 turn out.
I turn out more and engine tries to start and back fires but will not start.

Also second problem 3/4 seem to spark more the 1/2 cylinders
i know the point setting for that side

what kind of problems will these cause?
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
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Re: post rebuild problems 1967

Standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plugs, the cylinders are numbered as follows:

2....1

4....3

One set of points fires 1 and 3, other set fires 2 and 4. Dirty and/or incorrect points will result in weak spark.

With the points set on the high lobe.... Set the points as follows. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner

Backfiring.... Loudly out the exhaust? If so, have you had the timing belt off?

(Carburetor Adjustments - Older V/4 Downdraft Carb)
(J. Reeves)

NOTE: The early model downdraft carburetors incorporated "Adjustable High Speed Jets". The later model downdraft carburetors used "Fixed High Speed Jets". Follow the below instructions accordingly.

NOTE: If you do not have adjustable high speed jets, ignore those paragraphs pertaining to same...... BUT do make sure that you manually inspect and clean the two brass fixed high speed jets which would be located in back of the two 7/16" slotted hex head bolts in the bottom front portion of the float chamber.

Lift the center High Speed Control lever and turn it so that the point faces forward, resting on the high ridge. This will disengage the lever control gear from the individual high speed jets (slots). Have the slow speed needle valve knobs installed upside down so that they can be turned without encountering any obstruction.

Gently seat each of the High Speed needle valves, then back each one out one (1) turn. Gently seat each of the Slow Speed needle valves, then back each one out one and one half (1-1/2) turns. NOTE... have the jam nut on the s/speed needles snug so that vibration won't have any effect on them, but loose enough so that you can turn them without a great amount of effort.

(High Speed)
With a reliable person at the wheel, and one kneeling in front of the engine, start the engine (yes, it will run lousy with the above initial needle valve settings), put it into forward gear, and apply full throttle. Start with the High Speed adjustment on the left using a screwdriver that properly fits the slot.

(High Speed Adjustments)
At full throttle, with the proper size screwdriver, slowly start turning one of the H/S needles in segments of 1/8 turn, waiting momentarily for the engine to respond, then repeat turning. You will reach a point where the engine will start to die out. At that point, back that needle valve out approximately 1/4 turn. Now, go to the other High Speed needle valve and repeat that procedure. At some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest high speed setting (you can now lower the throttle rpm). That will have both high speed needle valves set correctly, and at that point you can lift that center lever adjustment of that high ridge, keeping it lifted until the point is facing the engine, then lower it into its proper position. (When you turn that lever now, you're adjusting both High Speed needle valves at the same time.)

(Slow Speed Adjustments)
Now, lowering the rpms of course, take the engine out of gear and set the throttle just to where the engine will stay running. Again, in segments of 1/8 turn, slowly start turning in one of the slow speed needle valves, waiting a few seconds between each turning for the engine to respond. As you turn the s/speed needles in, the rpms will increase..... and as it does, lower the rpms to where the engine will just stay running (otherwise the rpms will climb quite high). You will reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back the needle valve out 1/4 turn. Repeat the process with the remaining slow speed needle. Again, at some point in that 1/4 turn out, you will find the smoothest setting. When finished, tighten the jam nut somewhat, then remove and reinstall the s/speed knobs correctly (right side up).

http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
 

shipwreck

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 23, 2006
Messages
263
Re: post rebuild problems 1967

RE: to Joe Reeves
At first engine would firer / no fuel was the problem ...
I turn my lower speed needles out and start to get fuel ,I believe..?
not sure because i took carb apart and blew it out .
Now engine start to firer but dosn't turn over.
It sound like mild backfire/ not loud.
I have had the timing belt off ..too re-time, it is set correctly.
the points where set high on cam .020 the checked by rotor dist. and meter to make sure they close , but the side 2/4 points are screwy
i just need to buy new points..they are back order .

Any way , not sure how these set of directions works: Quote:"Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubber portion of the ignition points."

i have a notch cut out of my disturb wheel and breaker point stamped on castings. the points close just after the notch.

next question: the cam lobe has four sides are two high and two low or something like that?
and if so what is the pattern .., high , low, high , low?
or is the high side of the cam lobe the corner where to side meet?

?
 

Joe Reeves

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Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: post rebuild problems 1967

Shipwreck.... You asked "Any way , not sure how these set of directions works: Quote:"Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubber portion of the ignition points."

My apologies for that quote. I meant to delete that portion of the instructions. I have since corrected it as can be seen in my original reply.

Your next question "next question: the cam lobe has four sides are two high and two low or something like that?
and if so what is the pattern .., high , low, high , low?
or is the high side of the cam lobe the corner where to side meet?"

Use the high side of that cam to set the points. It doesn't matter which high side. ONe set of points fires cylinders 1 and 3, the other set fires 2 and 4. When the high portion of the cam starts to open either set of points, that when the coil would send a spark to the spark plugs.

A mild backfire, a spitting of sorts, is actually coming from the carburetor and indicates a lean setting and/or a fouled carburetor. See my carb setting pprocedure in my original reply.
 

shipwreck

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 23, 2006
Messages
263
Re: post rebuild problems 1967

ok , i got her started and dial in idle a bit high to keep running.

It was to lean ( the low speed needlers were turn in to far after rebuild)

A DAY OF PAIN!
She sound pretty good i got her go 20-30 mph then blew a spark plug out of the number one cylinder / i installed heli coil ,the sucker shot right out after 10 minutes on lake a mid throttle. i stop to confirm that what happen , it was.
i i try to see if it would re install..if i could get lucky. The boat float in low water area. i start the motor and rip all blades of the propeller. Took one to get back to shore after a nice swim. 50 boats and no one would help, a bass tournment ..they all look at me no help...very sad... then i had to wait for them to pull all of there boats out of the water before i could get mine. ( 10 minutes of fun 4 hours of pain. ...... i done bitching now

questionS/ PROBLEMS: Things I noticed while , the spark plug the came out of the one cylinder burning hot, i could touch the heads for 4 seconds or so. i saw a little water leak for thermostat hose on right side of motor . note i just put a new impeller/ gaskets and thermostat and/ gaskets.. i do not have 3 degree burns but the spark plugs was extremely hot!
It idles kind rough and high and leaves a nice fuel trail even when boats off

IS THAT NORMAL FOR SPARK PLUG TO BE THAT HOT?
SHOULD MAY WATER PASSENGES STILL HAVE WATER IN THEM WHEN I HAVE THE BOAT OUT OF THE WATER AND DISCONNECT THE HOSE AT THE THERMOSTAT OR SHOULD BE EMPTY ?
WHAT COULD CAUSE OIL SLICK WITH BOAT JUST PUT INTO THE WATER/ IT IS NOT LEAK THRU THE FOAT AND NEEDLE AT CARB , I CHECK IT GOOD /NEW.

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: post rebuild problems 1967

Spark plugs have a direct link to the combustion chamber and they become extremely hot within a very short time.

The water is self draining out of the powerhead as soon as it is shut down.

The oil slick may simply be the unburnt oil from the fuel mixture.
 
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