Power Pack Question

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Power Pack Question

Since you've now replaced the obvious faulty stator with a good one (hopefully a new one?), do the following.<br /><br />Make sure that all engine wiring is properly connected such as.... brown to brown, brown/orange to brown/orange etc etc, then (again) disconnect the large RED electrical connector at the engine. Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine via a jumper at the starter solenoid, testing for spark.<br /><br />If you now have spark, in all probability the ignition switch is shorting out, in which case, replace it.<br /><br />If still no spark, either the sensor in the timer base is faulty, the powerpack has also failed, or a internal break exists in the wiring from the timer base to the powerpack.<br /><br />You can test the continuity of the sensor wires and the resistance of the sensor itself at the same time by disconnecting them from the powerpack and connecting a ohm meter to them, set to Lo Ohms. You should obtain a reading of 15.0 ohms +/- 5.0 ohms.<br /><br />Then.... change the ohm meter to read high ohms and connect one meter lead to ground, the other lead to one of the timer base leads and then the other lead. You should obtain NO reading. Any reading here would indicate the lead or sensor is faulty and is grounded.

 

[moondok]

Re: Power Pack Question

I was talking to a friend online, and he suggested testing the sensor coil. I performed the ohm and continuity tests on it yesterday. It tested good.<br /><br />I have been leaving the ignition switch out of the loop and turning the engine over by jumping the solenoid.<br /><br />The other thing my friend mentioned was the magnet's strength, the small ring in the timer base. I held a nail close to it to find out how strong its pull is. It would barely move the nail. How strong should this magnet be?

 

[farginicehole]

Re: Power Pack Question

(Edited) I think Joe was telling you how to test your timer base - did you do your tests as he described? If not, you should re-do them and report your results back as he is one of the most knowledgable and experienced guys on this forum!

 

[moondok]

Re: Power Pack Question

I still need to test the wires for breaks, but everything else I have done.<br /><br />This magnet thing puzzles me, though. I would have thought it to be much stronger, which is why I brought it up.

 

[farginicehole]

Re: Power Pack Question

How much is a new power pack for your motor, anyhow? I don't think my timer base has magnets in it, but I could be wrong. The magnets are on the inside of the flywheel. Again, since these are two entirely(?) different motors, this may not be the case with yours.

 

[alden135]

Re: Power Pack Question

moondok, You'd be doing yourself a great service by burning that Seloc manual and ordering a factory manual. They are much more thorough, have pics of just about everything, and are much easier to use. Good Luck.

 

[moondok]

Re: Power Pack Question

The power pack I bought from iboats was $68 plus shipping. I'll double check the flywheel for magnets. I didn't even occur to me that any would be in there. My timer base does have ringed magnet in it though.<br /><br />In response to alden, I have found some things missing in the Seloc manual. Like, it doesn't explain much about the magneto.

 

[farginicehole]

Re: Power Pack Question

$68 doesn't sound bad at all, and hopefully this will fix your problem. I put $400 worth of parts into mine, and that was just the timer base and power pack. I can't help but think I would have paid a grand to have one of the local dealerships fix it though, and I myself still wouldn't know the first thing about how my ignition system works. Now I know just enough to be dangerous! ha ha ha Good luck!

 

[moondok]

Re: Power Pack Question

I replaced the power pack a couple of weeks ago. That wasn't the problem. In fact, it's the reason I started this thread.

 

[farginicehole]

Re: Power Pack Question

Oops, I see that now. Man, this thread is getting long! Maybe I should shut my pie hole and let the experts take over. . . .

 

[moondok]

Re: Power Pack Question

LOL

 

[farginicehole]

Re: Power Pack Question

Well if you can still laugh about it, then it hasn't beaten you yet! YOU CAN DO IT MAAAANN!!! At the risk of asking another dumb question, or at least one that you may have already answered, how is your ignition battery and connections after all of this? If it is getting weak and not turning your motor over fast enough, this might also kill your spark. I know I have seen this with my engine. Like when I kept cranking and cranking a couple weeks ago, with no starting. Spark was still there, and plugs were wet, and I couldn't figure out what was going on. (get another "LOL" post ready. . . .) Then the ol' lightbulb went off and I decided to pop the flywheel off again and see if I had sheared the flywheel key. Yup - clean off, so my timing was nowhere near right. With the battery getting low and the cranking rpm dropping, the spark started getting erratic.

 

[moondok]

Re: Power Pack Question

I have not bothered to charge the battery yet. It still turns the motor with ease. I'll prolly have to pull the charger out in another few days.<br /><br />The only two places I know I have not tested are the timer itself and some wires. If it ever cools off around here, I will check more of the wiring. The timer is not something I want to mess with.

 

[farginicehole]

Re: Power Pack Question

I guess I'm confused - didn't you say you did the resistance and continuity checks as Joe outlined? And yes, this heat and humidity just sucks the life out of you! How much is a timer base for your engine, anyways? Mine was pretty pricey at around $260 or so. If you determine that you need one, I'd definitely check with Seiler Marine to compare to whatever other prices you find.

 

[moondok]

Re: Power Pack Question

I did the tests on the sensor coil, but there is more to the timer base than that. I know nothing about timing which is why I won't touch any other part of it.

 

[farginicehole]

Re: Power Pack Question

Those resistance checks and the ones done with the ohm meter on the high scale (to make sure nothing is grounded that shouldn't be), plus the "sensor coil output tests" are the ones I did to determine that my timer base was bunk. You need the peak voltage meter or a "high quality" DMM with a peak voltage adapter to do the output tests. Mine wasn't registering anything on the output tests, and the resistance readings were way, way out of spec high. Still, my ignition problem wasn't totally cured with the timer base so I needed to add the new power pack. I never tried putting the old timer base back on with the new pack, partly because if it worked "I didn't want to know" (ha ha ha) and also because the thing was really worn-out looking on the bearing surfaces and some of the plastic was even starting to break through on the inner diameter of the ring.

 

[moondok]

Re: Power Pack Question

I have not done the output test. I didn't know there was such an animal. I take it a volt meter won't test the output?

 

[McGR]

Re: Power Pack Question

MD- It seems like you have covered most of the bases but, obviously, there is still a problem. One of the things Joe mentioned was to get the key switch circuit out of the picture. This means to electrically remove it from the power pack. One way to do this is to unplug the red plug, the other is to remove the wire going to the powerpack terminal #5. Maybe you've done this already, I wasn't sure or not. <br /><br />Another "quick and dirty" test I've used on charge coils is to put a neon lamp between the coil output (powerpack terminal #1) and ground. You can get an inexpensive neon lamp type AC outlet tester for this purpose. If the lamp lights during cranking, you can feel fairly confident the charge coil is working. You may want to try this just to be sure your new stator is working.<br /><br />BTW, I think the choke you came across was probably the inline fuse holder going to the rectifier in the charging system.

 

[kevin88]

Re: Power Pack Question

A general run down of the DVA tests are as follows: With all wires connected to the pack disconnect the yellow kill wire.<br />Connect the ground for your multimeter to chassis ground and test for the following...<br /><br />BROWN wire- 150 VAC (Peak) which on a std multimeter will read app 110 VAC.<br /><br />BLACK/WHITE wire: 150 VAC (Peak)<br />WHITE/BLACK wire: 150 VAC (Peak)<br />Acrossed these two:.5 VAC (Peak) <br /><br />But if you are not getting Voltage readings at all may I ask if you've checked the ignition systems fuse? I have blown the fuse in my 135 HP v4 about a half dozen times this year.

 

[moondok]

Re: Power Pack Question

Ok, let me see if I can address some questions.<br /><br />I have been keeping the big red plug unplugged. I have not however been disconnecting the wire at terminal 5 on the power pack. <br /><br />Regarding voltage readings: 12 volts IS getting to the power pack. After disconnecting wires 2 and 3 for the ignition coils, I get a couple volts while cranking. I understand that this is not a reliable way to test for a specific voltage, but it will tell you if those slots in the power pack are producing spark.<br /><br />I'll try the suggested tests and post the results later.