Power Steering Cylinder Replacement

[GMTK]

Welp, found out why my power steering pump burned up...leak on the power steering cylinder. Had the boat out on the water and noticed I couldn't keep the pump fluid at a constant level. Then saw the dreaded drip. I'm going to replace the power steering cylinder and not try and have it rebuilt (due to the boat being 3 hours from me, don't want to make multiple trips).

I've watched two good videos already about it, and believe my issue is going to be physcially getting back to the cylinder to get it in/out. REALLY hoping I don't have to pull the engine because I will have to pay a shop if that is the case. Looking for any tips/tricks/comments on how to make this slightly less miserable. Also, seeing some differences of opinion online of what fluid to actually use - volvo fluid trim/steering vs. atf, didn't know if it really made a difference.

 

[Lou C]

Unless that rear engine enclosure is removable you’re pulling the engine. I did this job a few years ago on my OMC Cobra, my boat is old school so it all comes apart. Had to pull the rear seats & remove the exhaust on both sides. Removing the cotter pins for the mounting bolts was very difficult. But, got ‘er done!

 

[Scott Danforth]

Rebuild kit is cheap. You can rebuild it on your tailgate.

New pump insert is $50, just insert into your current reservoir

 

[Lou C]

The other alternative to pulling the engine is to see if you can find a fiberglass shop that could make the rear enclosure removable with quick disconnect fasteners like race cars and small airplanes use. Pulling an engine just to change a starter or a steering actuator is a big insult from whoever that boat builder is.

 

[Donald0039]

I feel for you with that engine hatch. On my Chaparral I have full access to everything with the engine hatch up. I can sit next to the engine down in the engine area. And I often do.