Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Woodonglass

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Yes, I have done this stuff before. Yep, that last pic confirms you have a curved transom. For the inside bottom any major "low" spots can be filled with filler but NOT Bondo!!! Make your own filler from the supplies you ordered. 1 cup resin, 2 tblspoons of cabosil and the rest glass bubbles and then add the appropriate amount of hardener, until it's the consistency of THICK mayonaise. Fill em with that then in an hour sand it smooth. What's your plan for the Dagger Board opening?
 

Something2do

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Thank you for the filler recipe, I was going to ask for proportions later when I got to that point. I also add the 1/4" Chopped Strand right? or is that only for PB mixing? When you said "rest glass bubbles" how much total filler does this make so I can be sure of the mixture?

I had thought about using a piece of exterior grade PVC trim and carving it to fill the hole. Then, using PB to set it in place, fill any voids, glass it over. What do you think about that plan?

Thank you for your help. Your advice has been very valuable and I appreciate it very much.
 

mrdjflores

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

i'm no expert, but i think if you grind out that dagger board hole a little, cover the hole on the outside with some packing tape, then fill the hole with some PB, and finally cover the hole, from the inside with glass.....should be pretty good....especially since your are talking about gel-coating the whole outside of the hull
 

Something2do

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Thanks for the hole fill PB suggestion, I may go with that idea if you think it will be structurally sound. The hold is only about 1 inch across, and yes, I will be doing a layer of new glass inside and new gel inside and out.

By the way, I had previously studied up on your boat upholstery walk-thru and I was very impressed. I am slowly building my knowledge base for the future bass boat restore I want to do.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Is the dagger board Hole built up on the inside something like this...
dagerboards.jpg
 

Something2do

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

No, it is actually rounded and straight, like this, but more rounded on the corners:

dagger_zpsd7060032.png
 

Something2do

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Yes, I have done this stuff before. Yep, that last pic confirms you have a curved transom. For the inside bottom any major "low" spots can be filled with filler but NOT Bondo!!! Make your own filler from the supplies you ordered. 1 cup resin, 2 tblspoons of cabosil and the rest glass bubbles and then add the appropriate amount of hardener, until it's the consistency of THICK mayonaise. Fill em with that then in an hour sand it smooth. What's your plan for the Dagger Board opening?

Does the recipe above for filler also call for 1/4" Chopped Strand, or is that only when making PB? What is the total amount the mixture should yield? (so I can get the proportions correct)
 

mrdjflores

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Is the dagger board Hole built up on the inside something like this...
dagerboards.jpg

i think WOG was trying to depict the shape from the outside of the hull to the inside.
bottom of his sketch the outside of the boat, top of the sketch is the inside?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

No Chopped fibers for fairing material. For the dagger board opening I'd do this...
Wax Paper and duct tape the outside of the hull over the opening. On the inside mix up some PB (With CMF) Chopped Milled Fibers. Mixing PB or Filler is deceptive. I usually mix 1 cup at a time. 1 Cup resin, 1 Cup cabosil to start, Tablespoon of CMF for PB leave it out for Fairing material. Add more Cabosil until you get the consistency you want, usually like creamy Peanut Butter. Surprisingly it does not increase the 1 cup of resin by much. Maybe to 1 1/4 cups. After it's all mixed and creamy add the MEKP per volume of RESIN only So for example, Using the metric system, which is the best most accurate way to do it, use 250 ML or CC's of resin (approx. 1 cup) and between 2.5 @ 3.0 ML Or CC's of MEKP. that give you about 1% to 1.5% by volume of MEKP. Using 1% gives you more working time but also takes longer to cure. In colder temps the 1.5% would be the best. You'll still have time to spread it before it gels.
Now gently spread the PB into the opening on the inside and feather out onto the bottom. Let it set up. (About 2 hours) Then scuff with 60 grit to smooth it a bit. Make sure the opening is sanded well at least 6" out all around. Then clean well with acetone. You can make the patch in ONE Shot by doing this. On a table lay out some wax paper that's significantly larger than the dagger hole. Cut your first CSM patch about 2" larger than the opening. Cut a 1708 Patch 2" larger than the CSM PatchCoat with straight resin and lay a piece of 1.5 oz CSM that's cut about 2" larger than the opening and then cut one more CSM patch 2" larger than the 1708 patch. Coat the wax paper with regular resin that has MEKP added and lay the 1st CSM patch down on it and coat it some more. next lay the 1708 patch on top, Centered, and apply just enuf resin to saturate it, then place the last CSM layer centered on top of that and wet it out. Now pick it all up including the wax paper and carry to the boat. Flip it onto the opening and use your hands and or a paint brush right on top of the wax paper to smooth it out, Let it set until it just starts to harden then peel the wax paper off. Now all you have to do is flip it and Sand, Fair and smooth the outside and it's ready for gel coat. DONE!!!
 

Something2do

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Awesome instructions, thank you for the detail WOG. I think I can plan it out and get the job done with your idea. You didn't mention adding any Glass Bubbles (or i missed it) for the fairing/filler or PB. Should I add those in the recipe for this process?

My plan this weekend and early next week (assuming my materials arrive before then) is to finish sanding down the transom area and inside hull, prepare the dagger board hole for the patch, and cut the transom wood to size and fit. If I get my materials, I will also try and do my first mix of PB and do the dagger board plug.

After that, it is on to fairing the low spots in the hull and the transom replacement.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Sorry. For the Fairing Material.... 250 ML of Resin, 250 ML of Glass Bubbles, 25 ML of Cabosil, NO CSF. Add more GB's until you get the consistency you want. Mayonaise for horizontal surfaces, Peanut butter for verticals. Then add 2.5 ML of MEKP and mix well for 45 secs. This will give you about 20 minutes working time in warm weather, longer if temps below 70 ? F. Don't glass when temps are below 60? unless you tent the area and use heat lamps to raise the temp on the substrate and the new glass. When the Fairing Material cures (about an hour) it will sand like a dream!!
 

Something2do

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Had to travel for work the last day so no boat work until tomorrow. I did get a chance to make a change to some of my equipment at Home Depot. I have a 6" pad for my sander and it works great, but the 6" paper costs way more than the 5" paper. From reading all the posts, you guys go through sandpaper like a monkey on a cupcake.

Problem is, I could not find a backing DA pad for my sander that was 5". I solved this problem yesterday.

2A76789B-D595-4D76-9ABA-4AC77DF202F6-12874-0000196631C249A0.jpg


I found a $6.00 DA pad and bought some 40 grit paper. Then I used the paper and my knife to make a 5" pad. Now I should be able to get my paper in bulk and get back to work. More updates this weekend.
 

mrdjflores

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

thats what i like to see people do....improvise!!!
 

Something2do

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Good news, materials came in on Friday as planned.

00C2A674-B207-476C-A4EB-DC03CF5020B0-14575-00001C600DCA93C3.jpg


I am ordering 5 gallons of resin tonight for the full layup. I think this will get me started on the transom and dagger board hole until the rest arrives.

I decided to use the cooler weather today to finish my sanding on the inside of the boat. If you remember, I had to sand down the tops on the think roven woving glass that was used on the inside of the boat. The inside of the hull is now very smooth and what gel is left is scuffed very well. I still have some detail sanding to do in the tight spaces, but the inside is pretty much done.

84CE968B-404E-494D-B069-78A069EA5847-14575-00001C6013124F7E.jpg


Here is the standard issue iboats uniform. I accidentally grabbed the XXL, but it worked great over my clothes.

77BEEE97-C56F-49F4-ABE0-4DF8A8165FD9-14575-00001C6011592E98.jpg


And here is the dagger board opening WOG asked about last week when viewed from the bottom.

C52A3B59-8F9D-432C-8005-05512DC76667-14575-00001C60155873D9.jpg


I am going to bring the boat into the garage this week to start cutting and fitting the transom. I picked up a sheet of 1/4" BC plywood today (exterior grade) and will use WOG's method to cut the ply to fit. I will use 2-3 of the 1/4" ply to build up the transom. I will also start working on the dagger board hole, getting it filled in and sanded smooth. I may also make up a batch of fairing to start filling in the low spots in preparation for a layer of glass.

Questions:

Should I glass the first wood prior to attaching it to the transom?
What about the subsequent layers, what should I do with those?

Also, the boat originally had some supports (glass over foam) running width wise in 3 place on the boat. See the pic below:

D65C1ECD-A91E-4262-886A-3D3CBEFD86E5-10212-00001506DBBB9AC9.jpg


I ground these out as they were done with. My plan was to use some PVC lattice trim by gluing it in along the original lines of the old foam supports, then laying some PB along side of them (to deal with the sharp corners) then glass them in. Let me know if you think this is a good plan.

If so, should I do my full layup (new glass) on the boat first, then do the supports? Or do the supports first, and the layup last?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to think ahead.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Transom...I'd get all 3 pieces cut to fit. Make 3 WOG Clamps. Do a dry run on clamping the three pieces to the boat and getting the curvature correct. Prolly need to clamp the center first then the outer two. Once you feel comfortable doing this, use Titebond III wood glue and coat all mating surfaces with a thin layer of it and then clamp to the hull but do NOT use any adhesive on the skin. We're only wanting to shape the wood to the curvature. Once it drys remove the clamps and then cover the wood with resin and glass, both sides and edges. Mix up some PB while the transom is curing, about two quarts should do. Do not add the hardener yet. When the transom is tacky add the hardener to the PB, spread it on the skin and the transom and then clamp it home. Use medium pressure to get squeeze out around the edges and use a spoon to create a coved fillet around the edges. Leave it clamped for over night.

Inside of Hull. Lay glass first then do your PVC ribs.
 

Something2do

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

The weather has turned cold here so I will have to wait on the dagger board hole for a while unless I heat up the garage. I am also working on making some forms out of wood to hold the boat up on the saw horses so I can move it into the garage for all the future work.

I hope to get that done this week so I can begin working on the transom. Opening day of deer season (rifle) is this weekend, so I have to watch my priorities and get the boys out to the deer lease. More updates coming soon....
 

mrdjflores

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

i'd like to go ahead and place my order now for some deer jerky :D
 

Something2do

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Well, it took a while, but I am back at the boat again. The Deer hunting was not overall that great, but I did manage to land a Hog on the fishin pole!

E044D868-1731-4A1C-A4F5-4B33159C31CC-2564-0000057726B742FA.jpg


I managed to get the boat into the garage and also prepped the Dagger board hole for PB. I mixed up my first batch of PB using WOG's formula and filled the hole. I used some painters tape and some packing tape to hold the PB in while it cured.

CE3FF8A0-3193-4A8A-B607-BA7886BE1A6B-2564-0000057738A58C82.jpg


A0F2D4C9-0D5D-46BC-B815-A997F3E830A6-2564-000005773B63474A.jpg


I was worried that I did not catalyze it enough, but an hour later it was hard as a rock. I think my first PB mixing effort was a success. I probably put in to much CSF as the PB mixture was very hairy, but it worked.

I used WOG's suggestion to get a good transom template and as soon as I get my buddy's jigsaw tomorrow, I will cut the transom pieces and get them glued and clamped to shape. Then onto the fiberglass patch for the dagger board hole and then to fiberglass the transom itself.

Questions:
1. Do I need to do a fiberglass patch on the underside of the hole as well as the topside? CSM for this?

2. I was planning a full layup longways once the above work is done, but I just realized today that the roll of mat is only 5 foot wide and I would need another foot or two to make it all the way up the sides like I wanted. Would multiple width-wise layups be fine as long as I overlap them 6 inches or so? Any suggestions on this process?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

Questions:
1. Do I need to do a fiberglass patch on the underside of the hole as well as the topside? CSM for this?
Yes, a hole of that size will need to be covered on both sides, and at a minimum probably CSM, 1708, CSM. The 1708 has a fairly large texture/weave and for the last layer you'll want the CSM for it's finer texture/weave. It will finish out smoother & look better.

2. I was planning a full layup longways once the above work is done, but I just realized today that the roll of mat is only 5 foot wide and I would need another foot or two to make it all the way up the sides like I wanted. Would multiple width-wise layups be fine as long as I overlap them 6 inches or so? Any suggestions on this process?

If you overlap the CSM along the centerline of the keel, that will give you 2 layers of CSM on the inside over your daggerboard hole. Add some 1708 and a final overlap layer of CSM & as less then heavy use, you're likely done.

If you expect the boat to be handled roughly, beached repeatedly, exposed to rough water & possibly bottom drug over boulders, stumps & etc, you may want to add another layer of 1708 & CSM on the hull bottom, and possibly run 1708 & another layer of CSM on the interior.


Did you mention what motor you're considering for this?
 

Something2do

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Oct 21, 2012
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Re: Practice Boat - New Transom, Gel Coat, Seats

My motor will likely be a 2.5hp to 5hp Johnson and sometimes just a trolling motor for small ponds and lakes.

When I mentioned running the mat width wise, I was referring to laying the layers across the width of the boat to conserve material. If I run it length wise down the boat, I will waste a lot of mat.

Will it make any difference if I lay it across versus lengthwise? I figured it would be just as strong as long as I get a 6" overlap.
 
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