Prepping for paint....

bheff

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 16, 2009
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What grit of sand paper do I need to rough up my boat? Its a fiberglass Kingfisher. Im buying all the material this weekend to fix and repaint the hull but Im curious to how rough I need the surface prior to primer? thanks.
 

Bondo

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Re: Prepping for paint....

Ayuh,.... Sanded Smooth, then roughed with 320grt...
 

bheff

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Re: Prepping for paint....

320! I guess my 80 needs to go out the window:eek:
 

erikgreen

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Re: Prepping for paint....

"It depends..."

Edit: Typed all this up then re-read the original post... yep, 320 grit to rough the hull. Ah, well, that's what I get for going off half cocked :)


Assuming a more or less standard, shiny surface is desired, then you need to take prep in a few steps:

1) Repair - fix any problems with the hull, including major dents, dings, gouges, holes, etc.

2) Fair - Use a long board or other leveling sanding system to level the surface... you're not going for shiny here, you're going for level, smooth curves, and even transitions from surface to surface. Check fair with a guide coat.

3) Finish - Prime, then check for lack of fair and missed dings... you'll find some, guaranteed. Fix 'em by fairing again, fill when necessary. Hopefully filling should only need to be done with another coat of primer.

Note that when painting with paint or primer you will have to fix any problems caused by painting before going on... sags, drips, etc.

Then prime again and check again for problems. At this point there should be very few remaining issues, and how many times you want to sand, prime, level is up to you. When you're happy with the way it looks (when the remaining dings or level problems don't bother you) then you can move on. For really accurate/picky detailing, check the hull with the lights off and a flashlight at a low angle. You'll see every detail. Keep in mind if you decide later to fix a ding you didn't think was a problem, it's hard to do so, so be sure you're ok with the look.

If you've got significant sections of glass or repairs uncoated, prime them and lightly sand with about 180 grit. Just enough to rough the primer up.

Obviously through all this make sure the surface is clean... if you get wax, grease, or dust on the hull, remove it before you do anything more, otherwise it'll be part of the coating.

Put on a light first coat of paint. Sand with 180-240 grit, then apply a second coat. Sand again and repeat until the color is as intense as you want it. Some people can get this with one coat, others take five. Once that's done you can either start finish sanding or put on a clear coat for even more shine.

If you clear coat, one or two coats ought to do it.

Finally, finish sand. Start with 200 or so grit, then when you're sure it's evenly smooth all over move to 320. Same thing, sand until the scratches from the 200 are gone. Then move to 400. At this point you'll probably have to wet sand to keep the fine paper unclogged. Finally you can go to 600 and wet sand. At this point you should have a very fine, shiny surface. Check for any final defects or problems to correct (hopefully none) and then use a polishing compound with cutting grit to finish the hull. Then wipe it down to clean the cutting grit off and wax with a good boat wax and rub until shiny.

More info than you wanted, eh? :)

Erik
 

Bondo

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Re: Prepping for paint....

Ayuh,.... 80 is good for knocking down fillers, but will leave lines if used just under the paint...
You could use 240 under the primer,+ 320 there after...
 

drewpster

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Re: Prepping for paint....

I agree with Bond-o and erik. One other thing to possibly consider is the paint you are using. Marine finishes are a bit more forgiving with very light sanding scratches. I good way to look at it is to get everything as clean and smooth as possible before applying the color. Paint will not cover damage, whether it is made with a dock or with sand paper.
 

bheff

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 16, 2009
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Re: Prepping for paint....

I agree good stuff there! My dead line isnt until April so I have plenty of time to get as smooth as I need. I am picky and hate waves and dips. I do have dings and chips to fill, and ordered more primer than needed just in case I use it to help level. Thanks for the info. Im excited to get this going. I planned on taking everything off and out of the boat yesterday but the cold kept inside (i.e. lazy day) thanks again and be on the lookout for pics soon.
 

ringmaster72

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Oct 1, 2007
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Re: Prepping for paint....

Is this automotive style paint? Is it single stage, base/clear or what?
 

NSBCraig

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Aug 21, 2007
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Re: Prepping for paint....

Yeah it all depends on which paint.

If your using a marine paint there is no final sanding.

What were you planing on using.
 

erikgreen

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Re: Prepping for paint....

Yeah it all depends on which paint.

If your using a marine paint there is no final sanding.

What were you planing on using.

Um... not really true. Entirely depends on what paint you use and what finish you want. There are only a few marine paints that outright can't be sanded.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Feb 26, 2005
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5,581
Re: Prepping for paint....

Hello all..

Marine Paint ?? you mean AwlGrip LP ? or Stirling LP ?..

those 2 are .. yes.. very hard to repair.. they have more clear to the top then others..

Imron .. Awl Craft 2000 .. more repairability.. and can be blended and buffed to new finish..

Basic Painting Principals.............

1. Clean your surface !! IE.. if you been waxing your boat for the past few years.. then you have wax ! get it off there B4 you start your prep for primer !!!! NO.. better yet.. GET it off ( whatever.. jet fuel.. splashes of deisiel fuel etc.. ) Amonia and water mix and scrub the crap outa your surface before you start sanding. there are other products..but .. ehh.....

2 Prep for primer.. that means sand the crap outa it with 120ish paper .. no shine ( use lights to see the lows that you missed )

3 prime with 2 part epoxy over gel ( 545 with a gun is what I use )

4 sand primer with 360- 400 ( 400 prefereed ) Do Not touch sanded primer with hands,toes,teeth,lips etc.. the oiles in your body will contaminate the sanded surface. dont use rubber gloves..if needed use cotton gloves over laytex ( protective ) to sand primers.

5 blow off with clean air and microfiber cloth.

6 blow off again using clean air and slightly dampened microfiber cloth with spray glass cleaner ( IE dirtex,, 3m window cleaner etc .. only spray on cloth but rub cloth together after spray to not have any wet spots when wiping .. hard to explain.. )

7 spray top coat in appropriate conditions .. and SAFTEY !!

8 go have a beer or 2 :)

YD.

PS. Please Clean boat..then 120-150 for primer .. ( look at the lable of your primer for prep conditions ).
 

ringmaster72

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 1, 2007
Messages
102
Re: Prepping for paint....

If you are going to do it, then do it right. I am not sure why you would want to sand between color coats amid other things in that earlier post.

Step 1: Use wax/grease remover to wipe off the entire boat. You can get a gallon for $20 at most auto parts stores, no need to use anything else.

Step 2: Sand existing surface with anything between 120-220 if you are going to prime and 320-400 if you are going straight to sealer and/or paint. Be sure that all gloss is removed.

Step 3: Wipe down again, then use a tack rag to remove any lint or leftover dirt/dust.

Step 4: Apply sealer and then paint per manuf. instructions. No need to sand sealer or base coat/color unless you have dirt or runs or other screwups.

Step 5: If using base/clear, apply clear coat.
 

ringmaster72

Petty Officer 2nd Class
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Oct 1, 2007
Messages
102
Re: Prepping for paint....

I forgot after clear. If you want to buff, you need to use 1200-1500 grit. It is not possible to buff 600 grit scratches out of clear coat. Furthermore, if you are going to sand and buff, you need to apply at least 3 coats of clear.
 
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