Problems..... Update

Fishermark

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Re: Problems..... Update

I have followed this thread with interest. tcsigler, I can't help but ask, where are you shopping for parts??? :eek: I cannot imagine paying $200 for a solenoid! I just replaced the slave solenoid on my boat - it only cost $13, and yes, it was a marine solenoid. The solenoid on the starter motor will probably cost more, but you can buy a complete marine starter for far less than $200. Here is an example:<br />
si_UEw200_2-1691-DR-2.jpg
<br /><br />The starter pictured only cost $150. I'm not saying that is the starter you need, but I simply show it as an example.<br /><br />I wonder if you aren't talking about some other part when you say $200?? :confused:
 

Don S

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Re: Problems..... Update

Fishermark<br />He doesn't have a Chevy, he has a Volvo Penta AQ170. The starter is nothing like the one you have and list price for a starter is $797.<br />The OEM solenoid for his engine lists out at $118 not 200.<br /><br /> Volvo Starter
 

Don S

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Re: Problems..... Update

For those old Volvo inline 4 and 6 cylinder engines they are very expensive. When they went to the 3.0L Chevy and other non Volvo engines, the prices are inline with Merc.
 

Bondo

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Re: Problems..... Update

Ayuh,...............<br /><br />Kinda makes that "Klunk" sound Pretty Sweet.........<br /><br />I Love My Black Drive...... :rolleyes:
 

lakelivin

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Re: Problems..... Update

Originally posted by Don S:<br />....I still find it hard to believe that a place that works on starters couldn't find a bad solenoid.
Don, as per his previous post, he pulled the starter and took it in to have it checked. I asked this same question in that thread but got no reply (maybe because it's a dumb question, lol). Is it possible that he could have just pulled the starter without also taking in the solenoid (and therefore the solenoid was never checked) or are they attached in a way that he'd have needed to take in both?
 

trog100

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Re: Problems..... Update

I still find it hard to believe that a place that works on starters couldn't find a bad solenoid.<br /><br />so does everybody else which is why this thread has gone so far..<br /><br />its only cynical old me that dosnt find it hard to believe.. which is why i ignored the fact that it had been checked and found to be okay and brought the solenoid back into the equation..<br /><br />praps its because i live in the UK and am used to lousy service from proffessionals.. who knows..<br /><br />trog100
 

Don S

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Re: Problems..... Update

Go up and read his first post in this thread. He states.<br />
What I discovered is, if I run a cable straight from the battery to the solenoid, it will engage,
]<br /><br />The problem is, we didn't know which terminal he jumped it too. Finally narrowed it down when I did the picture, but now it doesn't work when he jumps it. What's up with that????<br />This is the problem when someone that doens't know what they are doing and doesn't explain things completely and doesn't answer the questions that are asked..........<br />It would probably take a qualified mechanic about 5 minutes MAX. to find the problem with only a test lead and a DVM.
 

trog100

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Re: Problems..... Update

that one of course dsost mean much at all.. what will engage.. what terminal on the solenoid.. it wasnt made clear.. and as such didnt mean a deal..<br /><br />now of course we all know what terminal and what engages.. this throws us back to the original misleading information.. the starter being checked out at a shop and being found to be okay..<br /><br />i satisfied myself as to what was the problem.. when i said jump from the live battery terminal to the connection on the solenoid the ignition switch wire goes to.. after i was reasonably sure the poster knew which terminal to go for.. i did this to make sure another false lead wasnt followed.. like replacing his ignition switch and the associated wireing which looked on the cards..<br /><br />i stick to my original point.. most of the diagnostic work done on this problem has been caused by the origal false imformation that the starter was checked out to be okay.. this has nothing to do with someones inability to explain things properly.. more to do with an "expert" giving a none expert misleading information.. which of course stopped the whole thing being sorted out two dozen posts ago..<br /><br />one of two things happened in that shop.. the starter did work okay at the time and now dosnt.. this is possible.. or the guy in the shop never checked it properly..<br /><br />so it seems.. when attempting online diganostics u cant really rely on anything.. perhaps its a fools errand in the first place.. i know for a fact sometimes it is.. he he<br /><br />trog100
 

tcsigler

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Re: Problems..... Update

Sorry all, <br /><br />I suppose part of the problem is that there are only two visible trminals on the solenoid. One in which the main power cable comes from the battery and two, where the ignition wire leads into it. The wire that actually goes to the starter motor is underneath the solenoid. I did not rrealize that I was not beind descript enough. Next time I will be more specific. <br /><br />I took the starter and solenoid to a place that works exclusivly on starters. He is going to to replace the solenoid and make sure that the starter motor itself is in good condition. All for a nice price. <br /><br />Thanks again...
 

Don S

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Re: Problems..... Update

Glad to hear you are getting it checked properly. Keep us informed. That information about only having 2 tirminals visable would have been very handy.<br />And just an FYI, if you want to repair any typos, just hit the "EDIT POST" link just above your post.
 

BigPoppaG

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Re: Problems..... Update

Originally posted by Don S:<br /> Right now, the big problem is no one knows where you used your jumper wire. You just say it will work using a jumper, not which terminal. So that makes it impossible to determine if it's the starter or the wiring.<br />Your starter solenoid has either 3 or 4 connections on it. Below is a picture of a typical GM starter solenoid, your's is close to that, but not exactly. (I don't have a picture of your exact starter) You may have push on terminals or threaded terminals or both, hard to say.<br />Anyway, in the picture below, A is where the main starter cable from the battery should be hooked up. B is the small wire coming from the start side of the ignition switch and is the terminal used to energize the solenoid. C is where the power from the solenoid A terminal gets to the motor when the solenoid is energized. D is what puts battery voltage to the ignition side of the coil when starting and has nothing to do with the start function of the starter.<br />NOW, if you put your jumper on the A terminal, nothing should happen. but, if you do and the engine will then start with the switch, you have either a bad cable, bad battery switch, bad connection or a combination of all of them.<br />If you put your jumper to C , the starter motor will run, but the starter won't engage. If you put the jumper to B and the starter cranks the engine, then you have a wiring problem to the starter solenoid. If it only clicks when jumped to B , then you have a bad solenoid.<br /><br />
Start%20Solenoid.png
Don, I believe I am having a problem also with this Maybe you can help. I had a friend of mine who was working on it so I am not sure which cables he jumped. When I turn the key there is no power anywhere in the boat and it doesn't click the starter either. He did a jump at the starter and got it to turn the motor a little. Then he jumped another wire and there was power back in the entire boat. Think it's the solenoid?
 

Don S

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Re: Problems..... Update

The solenoid isn't the problem, you should have power to the ignition switch any time the main battery on the starter is live. There are usually a couple of other wires on the starter main terminal. These wires (red or red purple) go to the ignition switch and the alternator. If they aren't hooked up, you won't have power to the switch. If you do have power to the switch, you may have a bad ign. switch.<br />Not knowing what was jumped by your friend makes it impossible to diagnose from here.
 

BigPoppaG

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Re: Problems..... Update

Will I not have power to the horn, radio, dash, etc etc. Nothing that needs power is working except for the trim. I put the key in and turn it..nothing happens. To clicking. It's just like everything is dead. The only sign of life was when he did the jump yesterday. I just left him a message to call me maybe he can describe what it is he did. When it's electrical I am lost.
 

Don S

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Re: Problems..... Update

If he was working on it and made it work, then he should know what the problem is and tracked it down, it only takes a couple of minutes.<br />Sounds like your friend isn't great with electrical either.<br />Take it to a marine mechanic, it probably won't take but a 1/2 hour or less to find the problem, then you guys can try to fix it.
 

BigPoppaG

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Re: Problems..... Update

LOL he's a plumber. I give him credit he got further then I did. Money is the issue with a mechanic. I don't have any and at $75.00 an hour........well I guess I will just have to keep at it until I figure it out. Looks like it will be a long boating season in the front yard.
 

waterone1@aol.com

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Re: Problems..... Update

Big poppa, in most cases the rest of the boat gets power from additional wires connected to the battery connection on the starter (in don's picture above, that would be the "A" terminal)these usually go through a circuit breaker that is mounted on the top of the engine. It sure would help to know what your friend jumped to get power to the rest of the boat.
 

Don S

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Re: Problems..... Update

This is getting way confusing and why you shouldn't hijack someone elses post when you have a problem.<br />PoppaG, Please start your own thread. This is confussing as hell. Trying to work 2 threads together. One a Volvo one a Mercruiser.<br />the other thing is you can't look at your picture and tell anything. Plus there is either a positive wire or a ground wire, no such thing as a positive ground wire.
 
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