Prop Question

kyearber18hp

Cadet
Joined
Feb 26, 2002
Messages
23
I have a mid 50's Evinrude fast twin 18hp outboard model # 15020 on a 15' simi-v alum. boat. I cannot seam to get the boat to plan out correctly. It will come close but I would like for it to. I use the boat for fishing in the local lakes around here.<br /> The motor is a long shaft and the cavitation plate does sit about 1.5 inches below the bottom of the boat.How do I build the transom up for the motor ? And how many diffirent props will work on this motor without hurting it? :confused: <br /><br /> Thanks :D
 

bradheil

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 24, 2002
Messages
49
Re: Prop Question

Hello Ken,<br />I'm not sure if I can give you the best advice but I'll give you what I know. I have a 21' GradyWhite 1976 CC. I repowered the boat this year and in doing so had to build the transom up to accept the new engine. Previously I had a 150hp Evenrude with a 20" shaft. Now I have a 150hp Johnson with a 25" shaft. To get the transom height that I needed for this new engine I had an alluminum plate made, that would slip over the existing transom, but was also designed to give me the added height that I needed. While exploring ways to build up my transom I had to take into account the structural integrity of the boat itself, the weight of the engine, and the force that would be applied to the transom by the engine when operating and trailering. I'm not an engineer but, with a lot of help from the local marina's, and library, I was able to design this plate and keep all of the standards I had to follow. The plate is made from 1/4" thick alluminum plate. Where the plate rises above the old transom I had a cross member welded in every 4" (this measurement was derived by the amount of space I had to span, and the properties of alluminum itself, and then doulbled to satisfy my insecurity) Meaning I only had to space the cross members every 8". I then lowered the plate over the transom until it sat on the cross members, bolted the plate to the transom, and then drilled the holes for the new engine. The lower two holes in the engine went through the transom, as well as the bolts the held the plate on giving me 6 bolts in the transom and plate to hold it securly to the boat. When finished the plate cost me $136.00. I'm sure you would be able to do something similar with OAK as long as you took all aspects of water, transom integrity, and engine force into account. As for the prop, go to the local marina's and the library. There are formula's written, that are available to you, to match you boat & engine to your propeller needs.
 

Dhadley

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 4, 2001
Messages
16,978
Re: Prop Question

Lay a small board (1" thick) acros the top of the transom and stick the motor back on. If that helps I would get a small jackplate rather than building up the transom. Its easier, quicker, cheaper and safer. plus you will have a ton of adjustment. <br /><br />There isn't a lot of props out there but you can play with yours. If you raise the motor and can get it to cavitate, then you can take the prop to your prop shop and have cup added. <br /><br />Raise it and play with the trim angle and balance in the boat.<br /><br />Good luck!
 

bradheil

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 24, 2002
Messages
49
Re: Prop Question

Hello Ken,<br />DHADLEY probably had the better answer there than I did. After building 17 hydroplanes and, 14 skiffs I have learned that simpler is better. If I had been able to install a jackplate on my GradyWhite I would have opted for that or a Gill Bracket. However in this last endevor that was not an option for me. I also have never dealt with an aluminum boat. So as I had said, I was not the best one to answer that question. The one thing I have learned from this site is you are able to get both good and bad information. Hopefully you can assess the good from the bad.<br />Brad
 

Dhadley

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 4, 2001
Messages
16,978
Re: Prop Question

Hey Brad -- I was reading about your Grady White and wondering what prevented the use of a manual jackplate to raise the motor. I have done the "diaper" deal and it worked real well especially on Aquasports where the additional width and height stopped water from washing over the transom. And it looks good too.<br /><br />Thanks!
 

bradheil

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 24, 2002
Messages
49
Re: Prop Question

Dhadley,<br />Cash flow!!! I am disabled now with a very fixed income. The cost of the Jackplate or Gill Bracket was much higher than than having the plate made. I would have preferred the jackplate not only for the structural aspects but also the trim values but I just could not afford that. <br />Brad
 
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