proper storage technique for 1995 Force 120?

spoon059

Cadet
Joined
Jul 16, 2018
Messages
19
I just bought a 1995 Bayliner earlier this summer, starting to think about maintenance before storage. She starts and runs fine now that I adjusted idle. On my other carbureted engines I have a fuel shut off and run the carb dry before storage. I put Startron in all the fuel the boat gets.

Is it okay to fill the tank with fuel, give it a double dose of Startron or Stabil fuel and just let it sit with fuel in the bowls? I'm not carb savvy and don't know how to disassemble and clean carbs. I've tried and failed in the past, being forced to simply replace the carbs on those engines. I can't find replacement carbs, so I'm not inclined to learn on this engine!

The boat will be stored relatively level, with a breathable cover and then hopefully a tarp suspended above the boat for good measure. I'm guessing I'll put it away in October and not see it again until late April or early May. This is my first boat and I want to do what is best for the engine.

Thanks for any advice or tips!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,239
fill the tank or drain the tank - doesnt really matter, what ever makes you feel good

drain the carbs (I normally simply open the carb drains on my motors with carb drains

store vertical

change gear lube

to keep spiders and mice at bay, take a few disposable bowls and fill with shavings of irish spring soap
 

Redbarron%%

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
479
While it has little to do with winter storage putting a fuel filter and water separator in the system will help keep the water that will inevitability condense in the tank out of the engine
 

Jiggz

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Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
I'm probably going "against the grain" on this one. But for my winterization, I treat the remaining fuel in the tank with Stabil and then ran the motor for about 3~5 minutes in idle just to make sure the treated gas gets into the carbs. Shut it down and let it cool. Remove the spark plugs and spray the cylinders with fogging oil. Re-install the plugs finger tight and replace the cover. As for the LU, I have the bottom drain plug style so I place the motor in full vertical, unscrew the plug and let it drain about a tablespoon while watching for clarity of the oil. if the clarity is good, I tighten the drain plug and no need to change good oil.

So far 10 years with the same motor and same winterization and never had any start up problems in Spring or Summer.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,072
Never let a tank set empty. Condensation forms way to easy with an empty tank.
Leave full and use Stabil and Ethanol treatment(if Ethanols's used)
Jiggz method is the right way with one added step.The 120's carbs are easy to access.
Loosen the screw holding the bowl and drain them.

I lived in Michigan and have let my twin 88/85's set over the winter with nothing done and they started right up
in the spring. I had double knee replacements and couldn't get to the boat:(

Lube the steering tube with oil not grease.
Lube the mid section.
Be careful as the grease in there is 20+ years old and can get real hard.
Open the following link. It explains what to do with older set grease.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...637629-greasing-the-mid-section-zerk-problems
 

spoon059

Cadet
Joined
Jul 16, 2018
Messages
19
Awesome advice, thank you everyone! I'm recovering from thumb surgery so I want to do what needs to be done, but I'm limited in ability this year. I try appreciate the tips and will follow them all!
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,239
you can do it one-handed if needed.
 

Horse4190

Seaman
Joined
Jun 18, 2018
Messages
61
Never let a tank set empty. Condensation forms way to easy with an empty tank.
Leave full and use Stabil and Ethanol treatment(if Ethanols's used)
Jiggz method is the right way with one added step.The 120's carbs are easy to access.
Loosen the screw holding the bowl and drain them.

I lived in Michigan and have let my twin 88/85's set over the winter with nothing done and they started right up
in the spring. I had double knee replacements and couldn't get to the boat:(

Lube the steering tube with oil not grease.
Lube the mid section.
Be careful as the grease in there is 20+ years old and can get real hard.
Open the following link. It explains what to do with older set grease.

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...637629-greasing-the-mid-section-zerk-problems

Hi Jerry, I have same question about the gas tank as winter is coming. I know is not recommended to empty the gas tank, but can we have it like half tank of the gas is not recommended also because of the condensation? Tks.
 

Redbarron%%

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
479
If the tank is full of non-ethanol stabilized fuel there is less room for air which contains water vapor that will condense into water in the fuel as the temperature changes.
Full is best (full of non-ethanol stabilized fuel, that is.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,072
Leave full and use Stabil and Ethanol treatment(if Ethanols's used)

The better fuel doesn't seem to breakdown or get condensation as bad.

But a FULL tank works best.
If it's a half tank?? then Stabil and E treatment.
Keep it out of the sun if possible.
 
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