Re: Pulling Propellers
http://www.skiboathelp.com/tech/prop.html <br /><br />If this link does not work, I will paste the text below. Please note I did not write this, so I do not know of it's accuracy...<br /><br />=================<br /><br />From
kengibbons@aol.com Wed Oct 15 14:09:43 EDT 1997<br />Newsgroups: rec.sport.waterski<br />Subject: Prop Removal/iInstallation Tricks<br /><br />A while ago at the lake, I saw my buddy towing in a big new wally boat. The novice wallies complained that the engine just quit running, and the gas gauge was broke too, cause it was reading Empty. Duh. Anyway, to get the wally close to the dock, my buddy had to come close to the ramp. Too close. He hit his 4 blade and folded the blades so that it looked like a pinwheel. Ouch!!!<br /><br />Which brings up prop removal and installation. The procedure is pretty straight forward, but here are a few tricks you may want to remember.<br /><br />1. When getting started with the task, don't take the prop shaft nut all the way off. Just loosen it enough to give an eigth inch clearance from the prop. This will keep the prop from popping back into the rudder when it finally breaks loose from the shaft. The break loose event can be quite violent and forceful, enought to ding the prop. When the prop is loose, then take the nut off.<br /><br />2. If time is on your side, and it is really tight (puller is bending), put a penetrating oil on the shaft/prop interface and try it the next day.<br /><br />3. If it is really stuck on, tighten the puller bolt, and then apply heat to the prop hub from a butane torch. Be careful not to scorch your strut bushing.<br /><br />4. Never apply the puller and then beat on the other end of it with a hammer. Think about what is resisting the impact: the transmission. I once saw a dealer doing this, pretty scarey. <br /><br />5. The OJ guys told me that when installing a prop, give it a good strong slide onto the prop shaft. When it pilots on and seats correctly, it will make a solid thunk. If you try to squeeze it on all the way with the nut, it can go on skewampus.<br /><br />6. Make sure that the shaft key doesn't end up at the end of the keyway on the sloping part, or it will hold the prop from seating on the shaft. I make a little gauge out of wire, showing the maximum the key can be forward in the keyway, with respect to the end of the shaft. When the prop is on, I verify the key's position by sliding the wire in the keyway.<br /><br />7. I like to put some 2x4's between a blade and the hull, and the a blade and the ground when tightening the nut to distribute the force.<br /><br />8. I re-torque the nut after the first few outings. As a final measure, I put a dob of red paint on the nut/prop interface to use as a quick visual check for loosening.<br /><br />Happy propping!
