Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

[coolness]

I am ready to pull the flywheel off the Scott-Atwater but believe I will need a puller. Am I correct? I didn't see anything about this in the online manual that I found. Here is a pic. I tried to tap it lightly with a rubber mallet - all around on the bottom of it. Thanks.

 

[boobie]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

You need a harmonic balancer puller with three bolts of the correct thread size that will fit the flywheel. Should come rightoff. When you reinstall it make sure you have the correct flywheel nut torque spec.

 

[coolness]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

Thanks Boobie!! I actually downloaded a Scott manual today that does have the Torque spec. I'll let you know my progress.

 

[Willyclay]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

If you buy a puller, make sure the bolts are Grade 8 because you do not want to break one off. Also, check the thread depth before inserting them to avoid damaging components under the flywheel. FYI, when I tried the Harbor Freight $7.00 kit, the yoke broke and the center bolt stripped on the first attempt. Hopefully, your flywheel is easier. Good luck!

 

[Steve A W]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

Coolness
Here's a link to an article by Max Wawrzyniak about working on OMC
magnito systems. The flywheel pulling will apply to Your motor.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/03/r/columns/max/07/index.htm

As Willy Clay said watch how deep You insert the puller bolts so You dont damage the coils. I bought a 1953 Johnson QD13 that someone ruined the coils and stripped the threads on two holes.

Good Luck with Your motor.
Steve A W

 

[coolness]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll be REAL careful.....

coolness

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

I usually screw in the GRADE 8 bolts 7/16". No more. I usually measure off 7/16" then put a piece of tabe on the bolt so I can't screw them in too deep and damage the coils beneath. Don't be surprised if the flywheel is a little stborn. It should come off pretty easy, but it't not unheard of for the puller to have to sit on overnight. You can progressively tighten the center bolt on the puller to slowly loosen the flywheel. Also, make sure no grease or oil on the cam or flywheel when you reistall it. All that holds the flywheel on is the flywheel nut and good 'ol friction. God luck. Keep us posted.

 

[coolness]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

Thanks KFA!!

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

you may want to put the flywheel nut on just a few twists while you're pullling the flyhweel to prevent the flywheel from accidentally flying off. it probably won't, but it's a good precaution to take.

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

Just a point of reference: Every Flywheel needs a Puller

Fortunately, Steve A W, that QD had the later style coils. Had it came with the older coils (which are harder to find and more expensive) that could have spoiled your week.

 

[coolness]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

Here is a link to my Flywheel pulling adventure. It was quick and painless. Heard that "pop" and it was loose.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=451719

 

[Steve A W]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

1946 Zepher
Yeah no doubt. I might be able to save one by soldering
the wire back together.
But the other one has the wire pulled out of the coil.

Steve A W

 

[1946Zephyr]

Re: Pulling the flywheel on the Scott-Atwater

Yea, I did that once too. Fortunately, didn't do any serious damage and was able to still use my coils. If you happen to strip out a hole, just tap it out the next size bigger. Again, watch the coils, so your tap don't cut into one too.