Push Button shift

[T0M BAJ0REK]

Re: Push Button shift

also i viewed your video, 2 things though, The toggle i have in mind is that of an old retired f4 phantom, My dads an aircraft electrician. I have a couple of these switches. It has a cover that acts as a switch itself, now becausde mine is a 71 i dont have a 4ward -rev sol. I have 4ward and neatral, as a fail safe, as explained earlier on in the thresd FR explained this to me and I was ready to check the solenoids from inside the lower unit. I have also since then obtained a couple differentmanuals, all of witch are a bit different in the color schemes, I know from my automotive exp, those diagrams are never 100% correct but even the cover on the wire block it shows for ex a purple and a purple stripe going to #5 when the manual says purple and yellow or something like that (im speaking hypothetically) some of mmy wiring does not coincide w/ the actually wiring on the motor, or the book, but seem to be going to whatever component it should. I imagine @ the factory they used what they had, My wiring may be a bit different

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: Push Button shift

The ball type diode mounted on the starboard side of the motor is the Diode and Lead Assembly (Part # 383840). Its purpose is to supply voltage to the Selector Switch Assembly, which gets its voltage from the rectifier in a normal running condition, so that the motor doesn't engage forward gear when the ignition switch is moved to the off position.

The diode in the control box is the Blocking Diode Assembly (Part # 279176), which prevents "back voltage" from the shift circuitry to flow to the ignition system, when the key is off. Without this diode, the motor would continue to run unless you use choke, disconnect the fuel line, etc.

 

[T0M BAJ0REK]

Re: Push Button shift

OK, so , i now have a running motor By running, i mean a shot of ether in each cyl and she fires, I have disconctd the wires for my shift solenoids, as I had said before, the shift diode checks out , i am getting 5.6 to 5.8 ohms when testing the solenoid leads wich come up and connect right there @ the power head so, my 1st indication, was that YES the solenoids are working , but even after that, with motor turning, its still in forward. so i put 12v to 1 solenoid, then the other one, still in forward. I had a hard time getting the lower gear unit oil changed. I was scared to hit the drain plug w/ an impact driver, but I heated and cooled it and heated it again, rapped it w/ the impact and was able to collect a small amount, 6oz or so of gear oil. Not milky or too discolored just low + a few metalshavings but nothing I wouldnt expect. So now i pumped new gear oil in there, and same problem, wont shift out of reverse w/ 12v to the bare connectors so I went to a 50/50 mix if srait 30 weight and marvel mystery oil for the lower unit, just to let it soak over nite. but i keep trying the solenoids while turning the motor. about 5 minutes ago, I got her to shift to neutral,it still doesnt want forward but i did notice that the wire up near the key is corroded to he*l. This engine is mechanically fine and really pristine, but every wire on the sob is like corn flakes. maybe tomorrow Ill repair all the wires in the harness 1 at a time and solder wherever I can, I have tons of shrink tube as well. If the marvel mystery mix oil cures it, Ill put the right gear oil in it this time. But if the ohm meter tells me the solenoids for neut and reverse are good, it MUST be a wiring problem right? Or do you think the oil pump could be week? or the fact that there wasnt enough oil in it? Thanks for the diode input btw.

 

[T0M BAJ0REK]

Re: Push Button shift

Aside from the 3 carbs being a bit out of sink, i know have a fully functioning unit, yhans for everyones input. I have tested that diode in the gear select/throttle box, and am getting forward reverse, and neutral, as they should be . i am able to take her in and out of gear as its turning over. I have replaced all the wires aside from the high tension leads and coil wire. I have a new rectifier and it will run but not idle very well.
so my next and final (hopefully question) is . Ive set many carbs on 2cyl motorcycles and outboards, however, on those you set the carbs and jets the same, pull a plug wire while running and keep idling down till the engine quits then reinstall lead and pull other side, and repeat. Then bring them both down a little at a time. I do own a set of "carb sticks for op to six cylinders. Now though Im familiar w/ these carbs they need a good cleaning I imagine Id stary w/ a turn and a a quarter or so out on each main jet, yhen probly start w/ a 1/2 turn or graeter on the low speed. Any objection to using the mercury filled carb sticks?

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: Push Button shift

If you haven't purchased the factory service manual yet, this would be the time to do it. The procedure for rebuilding your carbs, reinstalling them, setting mixture, and doing a link/sync will all be covered. If your carbs are similar to the ones in the 1972 65hp model, the high speed valve will be fixed, so the only mixture adjustments your will make will be to the low speed needle valves.

The manual will also have the wiring diagram that you were looking for in it.

As far as cleaning out your gearbox, I mentioned in another thread recently, that I talked to one of the older techs at my local OMC/BRP dealer a couple of days ago, about this issue. He said he uses Dextron II automatic transmission fluid to clean out hydro-electric gearboxes. He also said that the gearbox can be run on this fluid on a long term basis. I'm not sure that I would do that, but its nice to know that you can test the gearbox with the stuff, in addition to cleaning it out.

 

[T0M BAJ0REK]

Re: Push Button shift

i suppose trans fluid to clean it, my matvel mystery/ nst 39 oil mix did good,(shifting now) and yeah the libraray had the manuals so i got two different ,,, very informative. but yeah i would (unless emgcy) shy away from that, i understand ATF acts more like hydraulic fluid, but ford mercon, atf has a gritty substance to help "hook up" thats why when an old c-6 is slipping you can mix a little sawdust w/ the tranny fluid and itll grab better, never do anything like that w/ this motor though, it really is pretty, im restoring the faded paint on the cowel, and the lower unit is as close to showroom as youll ever find. Ill be on the Niagara River so, everything id being done by the book, You make a good point though, power steering will take teanny fluid but not vice versa. I wonder if power steering fluid has similar propertys???