Question about filling Bravo III outdrive w/ Gear Lube . . .

[tpenfield]

Yea, so I filled my twin Bravo 3 outdrives with gear lube yesterday, and that was a lot of 'fun'

In doing so, it has prompted some questions. I recall reading through the service manual a couple years ago and if I remember correctly,

1) I take the upper plug out,
2) fill from the lower plug using my fancy pump hose thingy until I see oil coming out the top plug hole. . . .
3) then put the upper plug in and continue filling until I get the lube to start filling the reservoir up in the engine compartment.

Well, based on experience, I now know why you take the upper plug out beforehand . . . (what a mess that made as I tried doing without on the port outdrive)

However, it seemed that once I put the upper plug in and pumped additional oil to force it up to the reservoir, it was wicked hard to pump and seemed to build up a fair amount of pressure. Both outdrives acted this way, which made removing the pump/tube from the lower plug hole and replacing the plug 'very exciting', shall we say. :facepalm:

My question is . . . . is there a one-way valve or something up at the reservoir that made the final pumping difficult and seemingly 'pressurized' ??? am I missing something in the procedure ???

The reason I ask is that I gotta help a buddy of mine change the gear lube in his B3 next weekend, so I figured that I should avoid any problems like what I experienced.

T.I.A.

BTW - Quicksilver High Performance Gear Lube . . . was $16/QT :faint2:

 

[Bondo]

My question is . . . . is there a one-way valve or something up at the reservoir that made the final pumping difficult and seemingly 'pressurized' ??? am I missing something in the procedure ???

The reason I ask is that I gotta help a buddy of mine change the gear lube in his B3 next weekend, so I figured that I should avoid any problems like what I experienced.

T.I.A.

BTW - Quicksilver High Performance Gear Lube . . . was $16/QT

Hi Ted,... While ya had it all apart, did ya clean the junk outa the bottles that builds up from that Merc oil,..??

Ya know, that Sludge stuff,..??

I'm guessin' ya shoulda Blown out the tubes that run from the bottles to the drives, as I also gotta believe that Sludge gets in there, as well as the bottle bottoms,.....

The only "Valve" is at the drive, so's the bottles don't empty when ya pull the drive,...

I got a couple Alpha Gen.IIs, 'n there's little to no resistance when fillin' 'em,.....
'n I fill from the bottom, All the way to the full line on the bottles,...

Mobil 1, 75W-90 is what I run, 'n ain't quite that much a quart, ain't bought one lately,...
Sub-wholesale at my local Napa,...

 

[tpenfield]

Hi Ted,... While ya had it all apart, did ya clean the junk outa the bottles that builds up from that Merc oil,..??

Ya know, that Sludge stuff,..??

I'm guessin' ya shoulda Blown out the tubes that run from the bottles to the drives, as I also gotta believe that Sludge gets in there, as well as the bottle bottoms,.....

The only "Valve" is at the drive, so's the bottles don't empty when ya pull the drive,...

I got a couple Alpha Gen.IIs, 'n there's little to no resistance when fillin' 'em,.....
'n I fill from the bottom, All the way to the full line on the bottles,...

Mobil 1, 75W-90 is what I run, 'n ain't quite that much a quart, ain't bought one lately,...
Sub-wholesale at my local Napa,...

Aahh, gosh darn it . . . didn't think of the sludge that may have collected in the bottle and presumably the tube. Too late now though . . . I suppose my buddy will get the benefit of this experience. I'll keep that in mind for next year.

Thanks for the quick reply, Bondo :thumb:

 

[Scott Danforth]

I really hate the merc gear oil sludge.

 

[thumpar]

Did you take the cap off the bottle when you were filling?

 

[HT32BSX115]

Ted,

When I got mine, I drained oil and remove the drive lube reservoir to clean everything.
I refilled it essentially like you describe but I didn't notice a huge increase in the flow resistance.

I DID clean the 'sludge' out of the reservoir and associated hoses and fittings.
The "valve" at the drive should close when you remove the drive.....maybe yours was plugged?

 

[tpenfield]

I think the valves at the drives were ok, cuz they spewed some oil when I mated the outdriVe to the bell housing. Probably some sludge as Bondo suggested. Although I did clean the reservoirs out last year . . .

 

[alldodge]

According to the manual, you fill it as before and replace top plug, then install lower plug. Once lower plug is installed you pull the top plug again and wait for lube to come out of the drive lube bottle thru the top plug. They do say to clean out the bottle prior.

 

[tpenfield]

According to the manual, you fill it as before and replace top plug, then install lower plug. Once lower plug is installed you pull the top plug again and wait for lube to come out of the drive lube bottle thru the top plug. They do say to clean out the bottle prior.

That may be what I am doing wrong . . . not switching the fill tube to the top plug.

 

[thumpar]

It will be hard to pump from either plug if you don't take the cap off the bottle because it is sealed so you are trying to pump into a system than doesn't let the air out.

 

[alldodge]

That may be what I am doing wrong . . . not switching the fill tube to the top plug.

No, no, no
You fill the drive and replace the plug in the top so it doesn't come out the bottom so fast. Once the bottom plug is in you remove the top plug, then add drive lube to the bottle and wait for it to start coming out the top plug again.

 

[tpenfield]

It will be hard to pump from either plug if you don't take the cap off the bottle because it is sealed so you are trying to pump into a system than doesn't let the air out.

Yea, I did take the caps off the reservoirs . . . , so that was why I was scratching my head over this.

 

[tpenfield]

No, no, no
You fill the drive and replace the plug in the top so it doesn't come out the bottom so fast. Once the bottom plug is in you remove the top plug, then add drive lube to the bottle and wait for it to start coming out the top plug again.

Yup you're right, just re-read the procedure. Not sure why I thought it was different. :noidea: the only thing that gets me is that it seems like there is about 1-2" of space in the upper portion of the gear box that is above the vent plug, and that area is also above where the ball valve for the oil supply line meets the outdrive. So, it seems like this would not get filled by fluid no matter what.

anyway, at least I got it now . . . thanks everyone.

 

[achris]

I have a slightly different procedure... But it requires the drive to be off the boat. I have it in my bench stand and I fill the 'normal' way. Fit top plug, remove pump, fit bottom plug. I then take the drive out of the stand and lay it on the floor, port side up. Remove top plug and carefully fill the rest of the top section with oil until it is full. Refit top plug, fit to boat and fill the reservoir.

Ted, when you go to do your mates', before you start filling, blow through from bottom to reservoir with air, make sure it's clear.

Chris....

 

[achris]

... the only thing that gets me is that it seems like there is about 1-2" of space in the upper portion of the gear box that is above the vent plug, and that area is also above where the ball valve for the oil supply line meets the outdrive. So, it seems like this would not get filled by fluid no matter what.....

Yep, that's why I use the above ^^^ procedure. But, as the drive is spinning, oil and air get mixed up and some of that air (eventually almost all) makes it's way up the tube to the reservoir. That's why a lot of people believe the drive is losing oil after a service. It's just air making it's way from the top of the drive to the monitor bottle. If anyone doubts that, just before you drain an A1G2, pull the top cap. That thing is FULL!!!

Chris.....

 

[Fun Times]

However, it seemed that once I put the upper plug in and pumped additional oil to force it up to the reservoir, it was wicked hard to pump and seemed to build up a fair amount of pressure. Both outdrives acted this way, which made removing the pump/tube from the lower plug hole and replacing the plug 'very exciting', shall we say.

Yes I've experienced many times excessive pressure buildup once you start filling the oil reservoir while using a quart bottle hand pump. It's enough pressure so that eventually the hose blows off on the pump side. (That's when it gets really fun )
Ambient air temperature has an effect on the pressure you feel to. If cold, pump very slow to avoid seal damage to the drive.

BTW - Quicksilver High Performance Gear Lube . . . was $16/QT :faint2:

Walmart typically sells the same for $11.96 a quart.

 

[tpenfield]

Thanks again for the additional inputs . . . I like Chris's method of filling & topping off before installing the outdrive. It seems like it would avoid any trapped air.

So, note to self for next year, but my friend with a SeaRay 270 will hopefully benefit from this dialogue

He used to have his boat serviced at a marina, but has not done so in a few years (I guess he has figured out that the cost of giving me a few beers is a lot cheaper than what the marina charges). We are going to do a gear lube change on Saturday. So, it will be interesting to see how the outdrive fluid looks and if it pressure test well.

His outdrive is the same age as mine (1996) . . . ironically, his has been run in salt water for the whole time and looks perfect, as compared to mine that was run in fresh water and needed the bearing carriers replaced due to corrosion. The only wildcard is that I am not sure if he has had any seals replaced along the way.

 

[achris]

....His outdrive is the same age as mine (1996) . . . ironically, his has been run in salt water for the whole time and looks perfect, as compared to mine that was run in fresh water and needed the bearing carriers replaced due to corrosion. The only wildcard is that I am not sure if he has had any seals replaced along the way.

That's interesting. I've long held the belief that anodes will work better in salt that fresh. All the 'current flows better in salt water' stuff... You may have the proof I have been looking for...

 

[tpenfield]

That's interesting. I've long held the belief that anodes will work better in salt that fresh. All the 'current flows better in salt water' stuff... You may have the proof I have been looking for...

Yea, it looked like my fresh water boat had not gotten a fresh set of anodes in many years. So, they probably were not effective and took their toll on the bearing carriers, as being the closest weaker metal.

Salt water guys tend to replace the anodes every year because there is nothing left of them. So, as you noted, the end result can be better in salt.

 

[Fun Times]

What anode material was being used on the two drives as they typically have three types to use depending on water ran in.

Is continuity circuit grounding points connected and cleaned properly as stated in the manual? http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/mercruise...er11.html#/556

Also there shouldn't be any boat bottom paint within 1-1/2 inches (40mm) of the transom assembly. http://www.boatinfo.no/lib/mercruise...ser11.html#/34

All that mentioned, I've always thought the same Chris.