Question about piston and block

[jjhjrcmh]

Engine is an E200TXECM 1998. I removed the heads to replace head gaskets and saw the corrosion and lower water passage stoped up. Just looking for advice. I cleaned everything up and other than the metal wear they look good. I pulled the lower end to replace water pump due to low water flow. Pistons look good after cleaning and wiping down. I will post those pics later when I get camera back. Just looking for advice for now

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Question about piston and block

That looks like a pre 1994 open deck block.if its a 1998 the passages have rotted away and the blockages are the original material as the 1998 is a closed deck block

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Question about piston and block

I blew up your pictures on my phone and you have a rotten closed deck block

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Question about piston and block

Here is what block should look like...its likely to have low cooling pressure due to the water is not directed around cylinder diverters

 

[jjhjrcmh]

Re: Question about piston and block

Here are additional pictures after cleaning the block. None of the water passages re cloged or corroded out. It cleaned up very nice. Will be puting back together this weekend.

 

[jjhjrcmh]

Re: Question about piston and block

Last 2 pictures show before and the upper pics after. Sorry.

 

[daselbee]

Re: Question about piston and block

I had a 1996 block similar corrosion. I did not put it together without fixing it, tho.

My fix was to sand blast the corroded spots with a spot blaster, wire wheel, etc, to get it very clean. I then filled the low spots with Devcon Liquid Aluminum two part epoxy.

ITW Devcon | Aluminum Liquid (F-2)

It withstands temps up to 210 degrees if I remember, and made a great smoothable filler. This will prevent additional corrosion from eventually eating thru the closed deck aluminum that is remaining.

I have been running the motor for about two years now, and I have had the heads off once to inspect. Looks good.
No apparent problems. Compression is remaining at 110 on all six, but the fill spots never got close to any squish band areas anyway.

Of course, I ensured the deck straightness before reassembly.

I have a post on here from about 2-3 years ago that shows pictures, if you want to search.

 

[daselbee]

Re: Question about piston and block

Here is a before and after of the devcon repair.

Note the pink rubber o-ring stock in between top, middle, and bottom cyls. That is the famous "cooling modification" that I do with jigs that I made up.

 

[jjhjrcmh]

Re: Question about piston and block

Looks good, I will attemp this repair come the weekend.

 

[Faztbullet]

Re: Question about piston and block

Daslbee at least yours still has the all the aluminum in place as jjhrcmh is missing a lot of material.

 

[multimech]

Re: Question about piston and block

To be honest I would have the block and the heads machined. It is rot. I know that is an expensive way to go. I am a mechanic by trade and that would be the way I would repair it. You don't want to have leaking heads when you get it all back together. The other posters repair may work, I have never done it myself so I don't know. It would certainly be less hassle and cheaper than machining.

 

[daselbee]

Re: Question about piston and block

To be honest I would have the block and the heads machined. It is rot. I know that is an expensive way to go. I am a mechanic by trade and that would be the way I would repair it. You don't want to have leaking heads when you get it all back together. The other posters repair may work, I have never done it myself so I don't know. It would certainly be less hassle and cheaper than machining.

You can't machine it smooth. The pits are way too deep, in my case they were 1/4" deep. The block cannot be decked that much.
You are not considering the fact that earlier models of the same engine had open decks, in that where there is now aluminum, there used to be holes. The surface of the block at the pitted areas does nothing toward sealing anything. The only seal you need is at the squish band around the cylinders.

 

[multimech]

Re: Question about piston and block

"The only seal you need is at the squish band around the cylinders" I am sorry but that is not true. The heads can leak like a seive if they are not sealing properly, causing water ingestation or rot of any number of other components. To be honest if you can't clean em up with decking, which can be done to a limit then the motor is junk. Sure go ahead and repair it with some sort of putty, but beware that because one anectodal engine did fine with it that it won't fail on another. I get the cost factor and I get the fly by the seat of your pants stuff on this website. I was offering the position of someone who has worked in the professional outboard reman industry. Sorry if I ruffled any feathers.

 

[daselbee]

Re: Question about piston and block

You need to study up on these engines. Study the old open decks the new closed decks AND the head gasket. You might see. You might get it.