Question about red oak and white oak

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Question about red oak and white oak

Ok folks, a quick update on the wood: I located some nice maple in dimensional size 1x6x8ft. It is furniture quality, planed, sanded, blemish free and straight as an arrow. Priced at $22.59 for the 8ft length that comes to $2.83 per linear foot, or just a tad more expensive than clear fir at the Home Depot.<br /><br />I picked up the last three 8ft pieces they had, and will have to go back for another 5 or 6 foot piece. This should get me started.<br /><br />BTW they had red oak in the same finished sizes at about 1/3 more in price. It was also not nearly as dark and red colored as the red oak at the depot. Now I realize that red oak isn't always red. <br /><br />This was from Morristown Lumber in Morristown, NJ.
 

Terry H

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 25, 2001
Messages
1,862
Re: Question about red oak and white oak

Well done Mark, I bet it will be nice when finished...Chief ;)
 

Terry H

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 25, 2001
Messages
1,862
Re: Question about red oak and white oak

Mark, I just bid some maple stair treads and mouldings today for an old Victorian house and the best price I could find on maple was $4.30 bf. You ended up paying a very good price...Chief ;)
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Question about red oak and white oak

Chief,<br /><br />I called the cabinet maker and they told me how to get the right stain to match the cabinets, and that the cabinets are finished with clear lacquer. Is lacquer still the prefered finish for furniture/cabinetry? Now I'll have to get out my spray gun and shoot it. Never brushed lacquer on wood before. Would it come out like urathane? I just assumed everything was done in urathane now, I havent touched lacquer in 15 years (except maybe spray cans).
 

Terry H

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Sep 25, 2001
Messages
1,862
Re: Question about red oak and white oak

Mark, if at all possible don't use lacquer, it was only the preferred because it applies easily and dries fast. The drawback is that it is not durable at all, and on a horizontal surface it will watermark with the first beer you set down on it. I would use the polyurethane, and maybe a wiping urethant if you can find it. What we use for interior cabinetry these days is a "2 part conversion varnish". It's very toxic, can be as durable as urethane, dries fast and has great coverage. It's not sold retail nor is it inexpensive...Chief ;)
 
Top