Question About Transom Replacement

[atengnr]

I have a 68 saftmate 15 ft and am considering a transom replacement.

My initial question is do I have to cut out the floor away from the transom in order to complete this project? Note that the stringers are not attached to the transom (floor and stringer replacement several years ago).

Also, Im thinking of ways around removing the cap of the boat, as I have no space to remove and set aside. I was thinking perhaps of cutting and removing the splashwell in order to gain access to the transom (boat needs to be repainted anyway).

Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks.

 

[kaferhaus]

Re: Question About Transom Replacement

Likely the transom goes all the way to the hull so yes you'll have to not only cut the floor you'll likely have to remove some of it to be able to rip the wood out of transom.

You don't have to set the cap "off" the boat, you can just slide it forward enough to get to the transom. You'll end up with a better looking job if you do not cut the splashwell and a stronger overall boat. I've seen too many cut splashwells that ended up cracking over time. The cap is what gives the boat much of it's stiffness and it's under more stress than most people think.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Question About Transom Replacement

look at these, http://forums.iboats.com/forumdisplay.php?f=407

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Question About Transom Replacement

Depending upon the condition of the transom, have you considered using Git Rot or the generic equivalent? It is a penetrating epoxy that restores rotted wood to better than new condition. I used some on a rotted transom as an experiment and was surprised at the result. It is expensive -- a quart costs about 40 bucks and only fills about 115 cubic inches-- but considering the labor it saved me I would definitely use it again.

 

[atengnr]

Re: Question About Transom Replacement

Thanks for the info.

The concern I have with my transom is this...It was wet for many years due to a leaking drain plug sleeve, and back in 06 I stripped the inside skin off to get a view og the wood. Mostly it looked good, but in the region of the leak the wood was splintered and softer, however, no area was discolored (black liek that I see of rotting wood). The thing is, this wood is very soft, and in fact, pretty much every fastener screwed into it stripps out. And although it does not flex noticeably, I just think this wood is not good.

So theres no way to leave the floor anyone? Its only about 2 inches from the floor to the hull. Couldnt I leave the skin that is there (from the floor to hull) now and bond the new transom to this?

 

[atengnr]

Re: Question About Transom Replacement

Depending upon the condition of the transom, have you considered using Git Rot or the generic equivalent? It is a penetrating epoxy that restores rotted wood to better than new condition. I used some on a rotted transom as an experiment and was surprised at the result. It is expensive -- a quart costs about 40 bucks and only fills about 115 cubic inches-- but considering the labor it saved me I would definitely use it again.

Back in 06, I did drill several holes and fill it full of CPES, but as the transom doesnt flex, I have no way to know what benefits this provided.

 

[72charger]

Re: Question About Transom Replacement

what is the generic equivilent to git-rot.... i just purchased some git-rot to repair a tansom and im thinkin maybe i could save a little money?

 

[jonesg]

Re: Question About Transom Replacement

Thanks for the info.

The concern I have with my transom is this...It was wet for many years due to a leaking drain plug sleeve, and back in 06 I stripped the inside skin off to get a view og the wood. Mostly it looked good, but in the region of the leak the wood was splintered and softer, however, no area was discolored (black liek that I see of rotting wood). The thing is, this wood is very soft, and in fact, pretty much every fastener screwed into it stripps out. And although it does not flex noticeably, I just think this wood is not good.

So theres no way to leave the floor anyone? Its only about 2 inches from the floor to the hull. Couldnt I leave the skin that is there (from the floor to hull) now and bond the new transom to this?

A small localized area could be removed if its just the area around the bilge drain. Set the depth on a skillsaw and cut a 10 inch square out, lever the wood out with a wonder bar, replace with properly prepped ply, preferably with epoxy and then epoxy/glass the shebang out of it all.

But popping the cap on a small boat isn't a big deal either if you elect to do the whole thing.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Question About Transom Replacement

what is the generic equivilent to git-rot.... i just purchased some git-rot to repair a tansom and im thinkin maybe i could save a little money?

Save a lot of money, rip the bad wood out and replace with good wood.
I spent more time agonizing over it than it took.

 

[Tim Frank]

Re: Question About Transom Replacement

A small localized area could be removed if its just the area around the bilge drain. Set the depth on a skillsaw and cut a 10 inch square out, lever the wood out with a wonder bar, replace with properly prepped ply, preferably with epoxy and then epoxy/glass the shebang out of it all.

That is sure worth a try, and if you are familiar with using a router, I would recommend using that to cut out the test block. A 1/4" straight bit will do a great job. You can rig a guide template a number of ways, but I have done this free hand successfully.
You can start small and carefully go bigger to see if the rot is reasonably localised.

I think there is an epoxy-based compound that could fill the hole left if it is not too large....then reglass as per Jonesg instructions.

Safety glasses and face mask c/w chemical canister required.