Re: Question for FlyBoyMark
There is a slightly larger retainer thats sorta like a big fender washer that ALSO has a lock tab on it as I recall that keeps the bolt from spinning out. THERE ARE NO REED STOPS on the 50 HP or the 60 Hp for that matter. The entire reed block assembly is the same on all three motors. If you do this conversion, make sure you use Boysen reeds, it really helps(150-200 more RPM, better hole shot and smoother idle). In additon you need to change the oil injection pump too. THIS IS MOST IMPORTANT!!! 50-60 HP oil pump are the same but different from the 40 HP. If you do not do this, your engine will eventually be damaged from to little oil. The plastic tee replaces a smaller one for the 40 HP thats rite by the oil pump. Everything else is the same.<br />Parts list you need to purchase:<br />WME-68-1 Top Carb #3301-824902T16 $120.15<br />WME-68-2 Center Carb #3301-824902T17 $113.81<br />WME-68-3 Bottom Carb #3301-824902T18 $124.79<br />50-60 HP Oil Pump #81802A-1 $103.19<br />Tee Connector #22-818993 $1.53<br />Total $463.47<br /><br />I bought parts for 20% off list@ $370.78<br /><br />Almost forgot:<br />Lock tab washer for reed bolt #14-429821 (3ea.) $1.40 ea.<br />Reed retainer #812879002 (3ea.) $?.??(I think about 1.60 ea.)<br />Gasket #27-812868 $5.90<br />Gasket #27-812869 $5.90<br /><br /><br />Once installed, oil pump needs to be calibrated and carbs syncronized and if you use Boysen Reeds, a little bit of finish work needs to done to the reed block(600 grit block sanding). All tune up spec is identicle to 40 HP. You may also have to increase your prop pitch 1 to 3 inches depending on your boat.
