Question on cap removal

[Chris1956]

Make sure the hull under the waterline at planning speed is straight, length and width wise. Plastic lumber may be straighter than wood, on it's edge. Maybe you could line the wood with the plastic stuff.

When the boat was built, the entire hull was in a precise mold. The stringers and frames were added and glassed in before the boat was removed from the mold.

On a side note, if you can fix at least part of the hull, before pulling the cap, it may help hold the hull in shape.

 

[carlos515]

Make sure the hull under the waterline at planning speed is straight, length and width wise. Plastic lumber may be straighter than wood, on it's edge. Maybe you could line the wood with the plastic stuff.

When the boat was built, the entire hull was in a precise mold. The stringers and frames were added and glassed in before the boat was removed from the mold.

On a side note, if you can fix at least part of the hull, before pulling the cap, it may help hold the hull in shape.

That is what I was thinking. I was going to do my stringers and hull cleats (braces) first. Then remove the cap to get to the top of my transom. I need to re-glass the transom, as I did not get to the top of it very well.
As it is right now I need to level out the hull between the chines and remove the dimples from the rollers.

 

[carlos515]

If I use XPS foam for my stringers and coat it with PVA. Would 3 layers of 1708, chop strand, layered over the foam be strong enough? Just thinking to reduce the weight and wood content below the deck.

 

[carlos515]

I would use wood for the engine mounts though.

 

[carlos515]

If I use XPS foam for my stringers and coat it with PVA. Would 3 layers of 1708, chop strand, layered over the foam be strong enough? Just thinking to reduce the weight and wood content below the deck.

Ok, AI is interesting. I will skip the idea of xps, cheap foam. I will go with wood structural stringers and just glass them in.

 

[eggs712]

Good call. Properly encapsulated wood will last decades.

 

[carlos515]

Good call. Properly encapsulated wood will last decades.

Thanks, the idea for the foam came from watching a u tube vid. But after thinking, not a good idea.

 

[carlos515]

As I remove the stringers, I am planning out the new ones. It seems that the ACX plywood has rotted extremely fast. I had also used some Baltic Birch, not the 5x5 sheets, but the 4x8 sheets with the phenolic glue. The Baltic held up very well. The 3/4 sheets run 129 as opposed to 180 for Meranti. Both species are 13ply.

 

[Scott Danforth]

It can only rot if it wasn't encapsulated right

 

[carlos515]

It can only rot if it wasn't encapsulated right

True, it looked like the edge where the floor meets the gunwale was where it rotted. But I had delamination problems with the ACX also...... We just do not have good lumber at the big box stores.

 

[carlos515]

The cradle has been completed. Now the fun continues.