Question on getting 1980 140hp omc strinmger 400 ready for season

sikz3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2006
Messages
244
First off I want to say this site has a lot of great info, the downside is the search feature makes it almost impossible to find. Well anyways, I want to get the old boat ready for the upcoming boating season but have a few questions first. What all does this involve. I did have it professionally winterized in September.
What I know I will do so far:
1. Change motor oil (any tips on this is aprecciated, it will be my first time)
2.Change lower gear case lube (have done this a few times already)
3.Change upper gear lube (I need instructions on this if you could help)
4. Re-install water drain fittings on block and manifold (shop had removed these for winter)
5. Charge battery
6. Change plugs

Please let me know what I am forgetting and how to do the things I am not so sure about listed above. This is my first time getting it ready for the season. I bought it last March.
 

WillyBWright

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 29, 2003
Messages
8,200
Re: Question on getting 1980 140hp omc strinmger 400 ready for season

Know what you'd have to do if I winterized it? Charge the battery, connect it and go.

1. You have to suck the oil out of the motor. Without the proper equipment, you're stuck with draining it into the bilge. Yuck! Jack the bow up enough to keep it in the back of the boat, then jack it way up to drain all you can out of the bilge drain. Then pile a bunch of rags in front of the motor and let the bow all the way down so the remaing oil runs to the rags. Other than that, it's just an oil change.

2. Pump from the drain til it comes out the vent.

3. Pretty much the same as 2. Don't forget to check the lube in the transom bracket.

4. Self-explanatory. Check for leaks when you're on the water.

5. Make certain that battery connections are clean and the wingnuts are pliers-tight.

6. Self explanatory.

7. Once you've gotten a few runs in, repeat steps 1, 2, 3. Sludge has settled to the bottom of the pan and gearhousings over the months of sitting idle. Only hard running for several hours will mix it back into the lubricants and can then be drained with them. What you're going to be doing is pouring fresh oil and gearlube over this sludge. It really has to be done at the end of each season to do it right. Otherwise you have dirty oil within the first minutes of running. You see, the cheapest winterizer isn't always the cheapest when you consider recommissioning next year.

8. I'd probably also drain the block and manifold a few times at first to remove much of the rust that has flaked-off over the winter.
 

sikz3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2006
Messages
244
Re: Question on getting 1980 140hp omc strinmger 400 ready for season

Thanks! I have a hand pump to pump oil from dipstick tube that I picked up at big lots!. Do I need to warm engine up first?
Ps what is the transom bracket?
 

KaGee

Admiral
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
Messages
7,069
Re: Question on getting 1980 140hp omc strinmger 400 ready for season

RE: #2.... Allow the drive to sit in the "down" position over night. Check the dipstick on the topside and add oil as required. Even though you are adding oil from the bottom, air bubbles can still get trapped inside.
 

WillyBWright

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 29, 2003
Messages
8,200
Re: Question on getting 1980 140hp omc strinmger 400 ready for season

The oil will come out much easier and quicker of the oil is warm. It will also help mix some of that sludge vback in, but only hard running will get it all. There is a cavity where the driveshaft passes through the transom that is filled with gearlube. That and the lift clutch are often overlooked when changing gearlube. You'll see the large headed plug just ahead of the outdrive. Mercury calls the bracket between the motor and drive the transom bracket. With OMC, it's an Intermediate Housing.
 

fendersfender

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 23, 2005
Messages
317
Re: Question on getting 1980 140hp omc strinmger 400 ready for season

as i suggest to everyone asking for help....get a service manual....preferrably a OEM service manual, but a seloc or clymer is better than none.....
 
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