Question on soldering trailer light wiring

[bruceb58]

Also, If you are going to solder, make sure you use the shrink tube that has heat activated adhesive in them.
http://www.genuinedealz.com/heat-shrink-tubing-adhesive-lined-3-8-inch-diameter-1-ft-black

The crimp connectors that I linked above do not have dielectric grease in them. They actually have a heat activated adhesive in them.

 

[MTboatguy]

I use dielectric grease I put in the connection then there is adhesives around the outside edge of the connector, that tightens down and seals the joint, I have had a few pulled off over the last couple of years, but I have never seen any corrosion on the connector. It really does make a difference in what connector you buy then prep for your situation.

 

[bruceb58]

The connectors I posted have adhesive throughout the connector. They are truly a marine rated product. No need for grease.

 

[Government cheese]

On my car trailer I used uninsulated crimps, and then soldered after they were crimped. For waterproofing I use "liquid electrical tape". It isn't pretty, and takes some time to dry, but as far as I know its very waterproof. (I have not yet tried it on my boat trailer)

 

[bwkre]

I've been using 60/40 rosin core solder ( acid core is a no no for electrical ) for 30 years on all sorts of electrical wires. Cars, trailers, electric forklifts, industrial battery cables, etc. I even used to solder broken battery posts with a torch and a lead / tin combo. Top posts, side posts and connecting links. I still have all my forms but there is little call for it now. Everything from 18 ga to 4/0 welding cable. Little stuff with an electric gun and big stuff with a propane or oxy / acetylene torch.
Solder and heat shrink is still the way I prefer. Crimp connections are good but a soldered connection, done properly, provides strength and a 100 % electrical connection. You can't beat that!

One thing I have noticed it that corrosion of the copper stops at the solder. It will not pass further.

 

[Illinoid]

The important thing is that the connections are done properly, either way works well if done right and will fail if done wrong.

 

[seadogmike]

There are proper ways to solder such wires if you know the methods. Being NASA certified micro-miniature solderer in my Electronic Engineering Technician career, you can use de-wicking tweezers to solder any wire and not have to worry about the residual rosin causing any problems. I like standard lap joint connections with heat shrink over the solder connection. And they will last longer then any other connection method I've ever seen. I solder every connection on my trailer(s) for that reason. Never had any issue doing that myself... JMHO!

+1 This and a good Weller soldering iron such as this

 

[BillP]

I crimp trailers and never had a problem but bruceb58 posted the best practice...which has been the AYBC code on boats for several decades. Solderless connectors are approved and soldered only conectors are not approved because of inflexibility and possble wire fatigue at the joint (read fire hazard). Solid core wire is not approved either. Trailers don't fall under the AYBC but you won't go wrong following the AYBC regs.

 

[bruceb58]

I use one of these for home. You can change the size of the tips so you can use it for more than just soldering wires together.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU

 

[thumpar]

I never use crimp connectors on anything. Everything is soldered and shrink wrapped. I use a Radio Shack butane iron that has a small tourch tip also when I am to far from power.

 

[gm280]

I use one of these for home. You can change the size of the tips so you can use it for more than just soldering wires together.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU

bruceb58, I have the same soldering iron setup in my shop. It is one of the best I've ever used and I can tell you I've used a lot of different soldering irons in my life time. One thing about that soldering iron that makes it a very good choice. It has ZERO tip voltage on it. Now I know folks haven't thought about that, but a lot of soldering irons have voltages riding on them and that is very dangerous depending on what you are soldering. But that Weller WES51 has ZERO voltage on the tip. And the fact that you can set and lock the temperature makes it super too. Especially on ESD components... I highly recommend it to anybody serious about quality soldering. :thumb:

 

[BillP]

I have the weller wp-25 and like it too. If 25 watts/750F is ok for the job its professional grade at under $50. I use it for hobby stuff...electronics, battery packs and model airplane parts. I like to use a minature butane torch when I can keep the flame from torching the other parts around the work piece. I don't solder vehicle, trailer or boat wiring. The only positive I can say for soldering is its way cheaper than buying marine grade crimps and proper crimp tools.

bp

 

[Scott Danforth]

For trailer wiring I use either a butane torch with soldering tip, or my Weller 200 watt soldering gun.

I have 6 soldering pencils for fine work.

 

[thumpar]

I have had the WP-25 and 35. The 25 is more than enough unless it is wire larger than around 16 gauge. I like a little more heat when it comes to bigger wire. In electronics school we had some REALLY nice Weller stations that had temp control on the iron and vacuum pump solder sucker in it.

 

[BillP]

How do you guys keep the solder iron tips (fixed or screw in) clean? This has always been an aggravation to me no matter which iron I use. I wire brush and sandpaper them but it seems there should be a better way.

bp

 

[bruceb58]

My tips generally never need cleaning. I have some of this around when I need it. To be honest, I haven't used it in awhile. When the iron first starts getting hot, make sure you tin the iron with solder so it doesn't oxidize. Don't let it sit there getting hot without a layer of solder on it.

http://www.amazon.com/Lotion-TIP-T-I...on+tip+cleaner

 

[bruceb58]

Once you start to resorting to sand papering them, the tip is pretty much ruined. Time to buy a new tip.

 

[sweebs]

fwiw, I have just finished up the complete rewiring and relighting of my 2nd boat trailer using rosin core solder, heat shrink tubing and liquid electrical tape. No issues on the trailer I did in 2007 and no issues with this one Only places I used any crimp connectors were at grounding points so as to attach ring connectors that were then screwed into bare metal area of frame and then liquid electrical taped over to prevent corrosion at grounding point. And btw, my soldering gun wasn't heating up properly so I used my map gas torch for about 1/2 second, worked great

 

[gm280]

They make some shrink tube with glue inside for special sealing properties. But you can also use a hot glue gun and apply a little hot glue on the freshly soldered connection and then shrink the shrink tube over the connection and it works very well also. Just an idea. I have soldered every trailer connection I've ever made and not ever an issue over the decades of usage...ever... JMHO!

Oh wait...I did have an issue a few years ago. Seems the squirrels like to eat the plastic lens off the lights and chewed mine up pretty badly. They also ripped up the carpet in my sons boat when he left it at our house for just a few weeks. They haven't touched my newly finished trailer rebuild...yet! And that is the only reason they are still living too... :laser:

And this my come as a huge shock to some. But those same squirrels even ate through our top fence attachment wires of our fence. Those attachment straps are made out of aluminum and they eat them through. I've already replace them two times now... They really don't know how close they are to taking a dirt nap... :violin:

 

[oldjeep]

I solder all my wire connections and cover them with the adhesive lined shrink fit (from Waytek), can't stand crimp connections.