Question to the experts about a acrylic resin...

blkvyyper

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Re: Question to the experts about a acrylic resin...

Thanks YD for your input...Is there a reason for preference over let's say 1/2" ? Went to Lowes to price some 3/4" treated 4x8 sheets...man that stuff is heavy!!! Looking at the treated for rot and decay purposes.

BV
 

Cadwelder

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Re: Question to the experts about a acrylic resin...

3/4" is pretty standard in the industry, I personally wouldn't use the treated stuff...
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: Question to the experts about a acrylic resin...

I just never used all that much 1/2" in boats. Most of the 1/2" x grade that I have cut into seemed to warp bad.

Kinda hard to measure, cut and install stringers when the wood moves on ya as soon as you cut it lol.

YD.
 

ondarvr

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Re: Question to the experts about a acrylic resin...

If you choose to use PT plywood then you either need to buy the stuff you looked at and let it dry (it will warp though), or buy KD PT, it's designed for this purpose.
 

blkvyyper

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Re: Question to the experts about a acrylic resin...

Thanks Ondarvr and YD for your input. was just looking at it in the aspect or rot. I'm guessing KD PT is kin dried pre treated? or am I wrong? if so where do you get 3/4" KD PT at? Better yet, where can i get a light, 3/4" ply at? doesn't have to treated. I also noticed that all of you laminate together ply to get your stringers widths...is there a reason why you don't use 2x4's the get the same thing? might be a noob question, but you'll never know unless you ask...(smile) this is my first rebuild so better do it right the first time.

BV
 

oops!

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Re: Question to the experts about a acrylic resin...

yes.....KD is kiln dryed.... not kraft dinner....(lol) and pt is pressure treated.
green wood makes a good pressure treated kiln dryed wood.

the reason we dont use dimensional lumber for strings....(even though you can)

is because plywood on edge is stronger than dimensional lumber.....this is due to the cross grains of the ply.
every time they lay the next laminate on plywood...they alternate the grains.

all wood you get from a store is wet.......thats why it weighs so much.

dry your plywood for several weeks before you use it....pressure treated....needs to be dry for at least a month before use... or it will not soak up resin properly.

i use 1/2 inch on decks.....due to the weight.....if you glass it right.....and use proper supports under the deck.....you can get the stiffness of 3/4 inch without all the weight....
weight is the enemy of speed in boats.

if you wish to gain some knowledge before you start this project........read the first 16 pages of the thread in my signature....
it is the most in depth discussion on wood....glassing.....resins....cloth on the site.
 

blkvyyper

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Re: Question to the experts about a acrylic resin...

Thanks Oops! for your reply,
I've went through your thread last yr. and forgot about your info, gettin old i guess...LOL. I understand what your saying, it just seems like your trying attach your deck to a pin head so to speak as far as width of the stringers. Your information is incredible along with the details and pics. got it bookmarked so i can refer back to it...Some people don't like 1/2" some refer to only using 3/4" for a boat build. Your right, weight is the enemy and i'm trying to keep mine as light as possible but be able carry weight. I'm also looking into using something else besides wood for the stringers, maybe aluminum support system or something...thoughts on this?
 

blkvyyper

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Question to the experts about epoxy putty

Question to the experts about epoxy putty

Hello to the forum,
I was cruisin the net doing some research for materials when i came across a boat build.

Link: http://www.bassfishing.co.za/bassingnews/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=3627

This guy used white epoxy putty in the joints. I further researched and came across something called Marine Tex Epoxy Putty.

Product Description
Marine Tex Epoxy Putty. Simple, fast and effective sealing solution! Handles like putty, hardens like steel, and sands easy like wood. Non-magnetic, non-rusting and non-corrosive self hardening Putty is great for repairing damaged or leaky hulls, dry rot, cracked crank cases, engine blocks, fuel tank leaks, water tanks, piping and more. Absolutely impervious to the effects of oil, grease, brine, detergents, and other on-board chemicals. Can be sanded, drilled, sawed, threaded and painted... won't shatter when bumped. Get yours in the 2-oz., 14-oz., or 1-qt. size, your choice white or gray.

Was wondering if anyone here has used this and what they thought of it.

Thanks

BV
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Question to the experts about epoxy putty

Re: Question to the experts about epoxy putty

What application are you wanting to use the Marine Tex for? It's used all the time for repairs here on the forum. Small gouges etc. It is epoxy and therefore gelcoat and other polyester products will not adhere to it very well.
 

ondarvr

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Re: Question to the experts about a acrylic resin...

There are many things you can use to make stringers and supports for the floor, there are many things you can use for the floor too, they all have their good and bad points. Most have been discussed here at one time or another.

Marine Tex is a common product here too. Most pro's don't use though, not because it's bad, its just they have other products on hand that will do about the same things. The DIY crowd uses it much more.
 

blkvyyper

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Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Hello, it's me again....LOL

I got a question that i've tried to research and can't seem to find a legitimate answer for. I know this might seem dumb but I was wondering....can anyone tell me why most boats have the steering wheel on the right side of the boat? excuse me still learning the boating terms....starboard i think....LOL

Just wondering why they are usually not found on the port side.

BV
 

ondarvr

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Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

It has to do with the direction the prop rotates. The torque from the turning prop tends to lift the right side of the boat, the driver sitting on that side will help to offset this affect.
 

blkvyyper

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Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Ondarvr,
That is the most sensible explanation I've heard. Makes sense. I've asked boat dealers, and owners and all got was ....duh, i dunno, designed like that i guess. one even said has something to do with being able to see an oncoming boat in a tight passing...

As far as the marine tex, I was thinking like the guy did in the link I posted. To bed stringers, fill gaps, etc. I would think it would save on using so much resin for PB, I could be wrong on this but just a thought. Since it is already made and as strong as PB (I'm guessing), it would save on cabosil and cut glass and anything else PB is made of.

Thanks BV
 

Cadwelder

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Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Heed post #29....like Woody said, Marine Tex is an epoxy product and polyester based products don't adhere well to it. Now just for fillets probably no biggie, but some food for thought....I'd stick with all the same resins..

CW
 

Dabbler_E

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Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Hello, it's me again....LOL

I got a question that i've tried to research and can't seem to find a legitimate answer for. I know this might seem dumb but I was wondering....can anyone tell me why most boats have the steering wheel on the right side of the boat? excuse me still learning the boating terms....starboard i think....LOL

Just wondering why they are usually not found on the port side.

BV


In ancient times, boats were steered with a side-mounted oar (a "Steer Board"), which was mounted on the right-hand side to make it easier to handle by right-handed folk ("steer board" morphed into "starboard"). When coming in to a port, you would dock against the opposite side so you didn't crush the steer board (hence, the Port side). So, by long tradition, vessels are steered from the starboard side. My guess is that when propeller power started, they matched the prop rotation to balance the weight of the driver on the starboard side, rather than vice versa.

Some more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_and_starboard
 

Cadwelder

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Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

In ancient times, boats were steered with a side-mounted oar (a "Steer Board"), which was mounted on the right-hand side to make it easier to handle by right-handed folk ("steer board" morphed into "starboard"). When coming in to a port, you would dock against the opposite side so you didn't crush the steer board (hence, the Port side). So, by long tradition, vessels are steered from the starboard side. My guess is that when propeller power started, they matched the prop rotation to balance the weight of the driver on the starboard side, rather than vice versa.

Some more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_and_starboard

That is really intresting...never heard that before.
 

blkvyyper

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Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Cadwelder and Dabbler E, thanks again for straightening that out for me and good eyes on the epoxy putty. didnt dawn on me hence EPOXY...duh so i guess it could be used with epoxy resin. I've been looking at other posts and trying to learn and comprehend all of the techniques of the experts...Then it happened...LOL I read a post where the guy said he was going to use the pink styrofoam insulation to make his stringers. glass them with multiple layer, let it cure, drill some holes and pour acetone in it to dissolve the foam to leave the glass shell. He then went on to say that its not the wood but the glass that gives the structural strength. The wood is only used as a form for the glass. Is this true? Is the wood for the stringers just a form for the glass or is it the glass that actually carries the stresses? Thats what i get for delving in too deep without a good set of life preservers...LOL

BV
 

ondarvr

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Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

The other thing about Marine Tex is it would cost a small (OK large) fortune to do what you planned, making it yourself is much less $$$.

As for the strength...glass or wood....both and neither. It all depends on how it was designed, some rely on the glass and others just tab the wood in place and the wood takes the entire load. In most boats the strength of the wood is relied upon for some of the support though, this makes the layup lighter and stronger. But you can easily just add more glass and only use the wood as a shape. If you did it this way you might as well use cardboard as the shape because it makes no difference what it is.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

All this time I thought it was because of all the right handed people.

As far as the Mtex and the stringer questions .. ondarvr hit that one over the fence :) .

YD.
 

blkvyyper

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Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Re: Question for the forum: Puzzled about a question can't seem to find the answer to

Ondarvr, thanks for str8n that out for me. My boat, like i stated before is a 1976 procraft 1500. The center stringer is a 2x10 about 12 ft long. Then another 2ft piece for the bow section. all the other stringers are solid lumber also (solid meaning not laminated together). I can't seem to find the original build plans for the boat. I called ProCraft, where the boat was originally built, and they said they don't have the original plans either. So to be honest, i don't know if that was how it was built or not. They were not sealed very well at all. So I don't know if i should go back with that design, or redesign it with all the experts help here, my goal is to make the boat lighter than it was, with all that water soaked wood, foam, and water itself i removed, the boat weighed a ton. I plan on redesigning the interior anyway for better weight distribution. Example- moving the gas tank from the rear to the center of the boat and the two batteries to the forward section....any thoughts?

BV
 
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