Questions Ready to bed stringers and transom

[Blown496]

My Crownline 196 is gutted and grinding done. I have all the wood cut and ready to go. I am getting my 475 pounds of material tomorrow. I am starting with pb bonding the transom first and practicing my pb method on the transom before I put it in the boat. I will csm the back side and am wanting to know how to setup the drain. I will arch the drain opening and bury it in pb as I've seen on other posts. What is the best plu method for this? I got a brass piece but am thinking pvc may be a better choice since the pb may not like metal. The old drain had a brass plug so I assume a tube with a levered plug will work too. Also, do I bed the stringers and then coat them in resin or do that first. Seen it both ways.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

For the drain I filled it in and screwed/glued with 5200 a brass drain on the outside that takes a 1/2" pipe plug from the outside. No special tube or anything on the inside, just PB. I did however taper it down so it is not the full thickness of the transom at the drain point. There should be a picture somewhere in the searay build. For the stringers I just bedded the bare wood and glassed it from there.

 

[Blown496]

My original had a brass drain with a threaded plug screwed in to the outside. I think that's how the water got in to the transom. Searay looks like he used a plastic tube through the pb but I want to be sure it is sealed.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

Here is a close up of my drain. You can see where the wood is, and where the PB is. There is no way water is getting from the drain into the wood. The screws on the outside are all in the glass below the wood.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

It is also all tabbed in with 1708 so there is structural glass over the PB around the drain. This pre-glassing picture is the only one I could find of the drain.

 

[Woodonglass]

You always precoat any wood pieces with resin first. Especially pay attention to the edges and soak em good. Use 1% catalyst to make the resin take longer to set.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

I should have clarified. I pre-coat them before I put the glass on them, but I did not pre-coat with resin before bedding. You need to pre-coat before applying glass so the wood does not suck all the resin out of the glass.

 

[Blown496]

Thanks. I will follow that example. I read that metal and resin don’t get along so is the plastic pipe in to the point where it mates with the brass on the outside and sealed there?

 

[Scott Danforth]

when I did my transom, where every penetration was, I had a 2" round hole in the wood. for the drain, it was a 3" mouse hole. each of those holes was filled with PB. that way when I drilled all my thru-hull holes, I was drilling in solid cured PB.

the drain plug hole is simply a 1" hole thru PB and then smoothed out and gel coated on the interior.

my drain plug is now a garboard style. this one to be exact

https://www.iboats.com/shop/seadog-garboard-drain-with-plug-line.html

 

[sheboyganjohn]

I have the same style as Scott.

 

[Blown496]

And that is what mine is originally. It looks like it was put in with 5200 around the backing plate.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

But I am sure your original one went through the wood. If you have it going through the glass and resin only, you will not have any issues, as long as the screws are also not in the wood.

 

[Blown496]

The screws on the hull are very short and did not penetrate the hull. Thanks for the feedback.