rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

[John the landlubber]

I am trying to cure the popping back through carb/misfiring and have taken the carb off. I will clean that out with carb cleaner and blow it all out with air. I took the reed plate off to examine the reeds which seem to be fine. When I look behind the reed plate into the crankcase I can see two ports (each with an alan key type nut) is this the bottom end of the caps and should these ports have a red powder/spray like substance in them? Also, can I carry out a compression test with the carb and inlet manifold off or do I have to put it back on to get an accurate reading? Do I have to replace the gaskets either side of the reed plate even if they look to be ok and do i need to replace the head gasket if i take the head off? I need to get an impellor kit but am hoping to swap my lower unit to long shaft. Can anyone tell me if the kit is the same for both? I am hoping to get this kit and a carb kit from sierra but am struggling to find a direct website, or do i have to get them through a dealer? Any help gratefully received.

 

[lark2004]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

Best bet is to replace the gaskets. <br /><br />The allen key bolts are two of the main crankcase bolts that hold everything together. <br /><br />All the internal passages of the engine will have that red paint on them.<br /><br />The compression test will be fine with the inlet manifold off.<br /><br />You can keep your current Lower unit, but you need to get the leg extension, a longer driveshaft and water tube extension to make the engine a long shaft. The extension is a simple part that just bolts on between the lower unit and the leg of your current setup.

 

[rickdb1boat]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

Try here for your parts:<br /><br /> web page

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

You have to replace the head gasket if you remove the head. If you don't it'll probably blow in short order since the copper only really crushes once. A new one is fairly inexpensive (~$20).<br />Get the dealer carb kit like from Rick's link. It ought to come with a plastic float to replace the troublesome cork one. The Sierra doesn't.<br />Popping back through the carb can (usually) indicate a lean condition. If it's specific to one cylinder, there will often be black carbon deposits in the crankcase of the affected cylinder. Worth taking a little look with a flashlight while you've got the reeds off.

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

Thankyou Paul. I have stripped off the carb, starter, top end down to the ratchet (including undoing the ring gear which I now believe to be unnecessary) and have just found the bit in the book where it says I will need a puller to remove the flywheel. I have reached the conclusion that I really should have done a compression test on both cylinders by this stage, so am gonna put the flywheel back together so I can pull with the cord. Does that make sense or can I do it using the flywheel nut?

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

Pop the ring gear back on. There's no reason to ever remove it. Make sure you've got it in exactly the same place as you removed it from - all the ones I've seen look like they've been balanced with the flywheel. If you forgot to mark it, often there's some "tells" on the flywheel particularly from drilled balancing holes in the ring gear. I always loctite (blue) the ring gear bolts.<br /><br />Make sure you defeat the compression relief if you use the pull starter. You could even just wind a string around the flywheel and pull. Note that there's a place for a knot in the end of the rope to go, and that you can easily wind the string around the generator pulley on the flywheel. <br /><br />No way to spin it fast enough to get a reasonable compression test with the flywheel nut alone.

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

Doh, i didn't mark the position. Never mind, will find right position. Next problem I've come across is getting the cylinder head off. I have removed all of the 13mm bolts but it is stuck fast. Read the section on head removal in my seloc manual and it just says remove the bolts. I guess it just needs a bit of gentle persuasion, can I just lever it out with a big screwdriver or should I hit it with a big hammer?(will be replacing the head gasket anyway!!!)

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

The head gasket will really grip some time. The way I almost always do it is to wind the spark plugs back in and crank the engine. The compression will crack it off, then it's a simple matter.<br /><br />If yo've pulled 10 head bolts, there's nothing left holding it. Don't forget to check the head for warp once you've pulled it. The Seloc procedure works well for that.<br /><br />I use an automotive "harmonic balancer puller" with 3 1/4"-20tpi grade 8 bolts (seperately bought, they don't come with that size) to remove the flywheel. Get the biggest one they have:<br />

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

I've finally managed to disconnect the shift rods. (Some of you may remember that the previous owner had welded the two rods together, after overtorquing the connector.) I did this by cutting the weld with a hacksay, but it was not easy. Took me a couple of hours. Anyway, as I need to change the impellor, it had to be done. I have drained the lower unit, and removed the unit from the engine. Only trouble is, the drive shaft didn't come out with the lower unit. I read the seloc manual beforehand, but have a feeling I might have read the wrong section cos I specifically remembered the bit that said "whatever you do, don't let the driveshaft come out from the pinion gear and was trying to be carefull, had someone rotating the driveshaft as I pulled it and everything. When It didn't come out as I expected it to I rechecked the manual and found a bit about possibly having to remove the exhaust cover and undo a couple of bolts on some engines. Should I have done this or is there another reason why the drive shaft didn't come out with the lower unit??? I am planning on replacing the lower unit with one from a long shaft model (rds-23a) but am not sure how it is set up in the way of drive shafts. Will this drive shaft stay in and have another shaft linking it to thed pinion gear or do I have to take this shaft out and replace it with a longet shaft. (as I have not picked up the donor engine yat I haven't seen the set up. Also, since I am gonna have to replace the two shift rods I've cut, Ineed to find out if the rods from the long shaft motor can be put straight in. Thanks guys, you make painful tasks straightforward. Cheers.

 

[lark2004]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

the shaft may be corroded into the crank. This fairly common on older engines. You need to turn the motor upside down and spary some penetrating oil downthe shaft. let it sit for a few days, spraying it when ever you walk past it. Then you should be able to pull it out. It will still be tight. Some vicegrips and a hammer work well for this.

 

[Solittle]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

I would use PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery oil for this.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

No problem pulling the driveshaft out of one of those lower units. Some of them can be tricky to get back in, but not this one: it'll go right back in without any trouble at all. If you want to bolt in a longshaft, just make sure it's drivshaft is precisely 5" longer than the one you have (once you manage to free it), and it'll be fine.<br />It may take some beating. Vice grips will be your friend here.

 

[John the landlubber]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

Thanks Paul. Have spoken to you before, don't know if you remember. Anyway, will do as you suggest but I am not quite sure what "vice grips" are. Are they a pair of pliar like grips (usually galvanised) with a third locking lever and a adjustable screw type part that you adjust to clamp at a set width? I am from the UK and if it is this we call them mole grips. Is this the same tool or if not would you be kind enough to describe it to me. Also, Lark 24 suggested using a hammer. Was this to bang the grips downwards whilst gripping the shaft with the vice grips? Cheers Guv.

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: rds-22 1960 What is this Red Stuff???

That's the ones. There's an American manufacturer that makes them under the name "Vice Grips" and their brand are particulairly good and stand up to a beating. The way I would do it is to clip them on tight as far up the shaft as possible, and then bang upwards, striking the vice grips. I doubt if a downward blow would do much good. If struck too hard the block & crankshaft can be damaged. If you do try a few light taps though, use a brass mallet or something to protect the driveshaft. You don't want to mushroom it at all. A clockwise blow on the mole grips is often worthwhile.<br /><br />As long as you stay away from the 1.5" or so on either side of where the seal rides on the driveshaft, a little marring of the driveshaft won't hurt. There's a bearing just beyond the seal in the lower unit so you must make sure that part of the driveshaft is in perfect shape. Clean up any burrs you create though before reinstalling the driveshaft so you don't tear the driveshaft seal and so you can get it past that bearing.