Re: deck and stringer replacement

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
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Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

I think , and I can't believe I am saying this because I am a glasser , You should get an aluminum boat ..
Small and light and could get it ready much faster and less expensive .
Just a thought ...
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

I think , and I can't believe I am saying this because I am a glasser , You should get an aluminum boat ..
Small and light and could get it ready much faster and less expensive .
Just a thought ...


OMG, I can't believe it...I'm going to agree with this!!!!!!!! I think I'm feeling....:faint2:
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,585
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

Here is what I would do based on my model airplane days

carefully peel the polypropylene coating off the snark shell
repair any holes with epoxy micro balloon filler
paint with epoxy paint - two really good coats.
epoxy glass over the paint
the epoxy will somewhat adhere to the epoxy paint.

It will be time consuming, however it can be done.

an alternative method would be as follows

carefully peel the polypropylene coating off the snark shell
repair any holes with light spackle
paint with latex paint - two really good coats.
polyurethane glass over the paint
the poly will not adhere to the paint, but will provide a hard outer shell. then again, the polypropylene cover didnt really stick to the foam core much either.

you could also then drill a hole in the shell, add solvent to dissolve the styrofoam and possibly add expanding urethane foam, just a little at a time.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,929
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

And...for the cost of doing all this^^^^, you could buy a really good "TIN" boat, and go Fishin!!!!!:D Did I just say that?????
 

Decker83

Commander
Joined
Apr 5, 2011
Messages
2,593
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

+1 on the tin boat.. I used to have a 12' aluminum boat that I fished with when I was a younger man and always had a blast.
I think it had a 5 hp evinrude on it.. Very cheap to maintain..

I would not use the truck battery to run your trolling motor.. First it is not designed for that purpose.. It can ruin your battery.
Second, what if you run the battery down and can't start the truck.. Stuck like Chuck..:D
 

Amasoa

Cadet
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Messages
10
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

Okay...I'm only human, so must admit to not being thrilled about what I found here, this morning. However, the individual intellect that is me was inspired (challenged?) to find facts of agreement or contradiction. The character that is "Christi" grabs onto something like a bull-dog and will chew it to the bone (just who I am :) a little extremist who knows this trait can be a strength or a weakness).
So, I went to all the sites I had bookmarked and printed everything for side-by side comparison and comprehensive compilation of fact, technique, and advice.
Yes, it will be work. The entire hull will have to be scrubbed and sanded. Specific materials can/can not be used due to the ABS component. PC-11 Epoxy and/or Gorilla glue (urethane) is highly recommended with good results. The epoxy is safe for the ABS, durable, and can be easily sanded. The gorilla glue is also safe, durable, waterproof, and can be shaved, covered w/ the PC-11, then sanded.
Wipe down with acetone, allow evaporation.
NO PETROLEUM BASED PRODUCTS!!
So, paint choice dictates that exterior grade latex paint is the easiest, most cost effective, choice. A 3" roller smooth roller. Application of numerous light coats w/light sanding between each. Semi-gloss off-white for inside, high-gloss for exterior (color undecided).
This will be more time consuming than laborious due to a 24hr. "cure" time between applications of epoxy/glue and each paint coat.
As far as materials, I tend to over always attempt to over-estimate on cost. So, I think $20.00 for epoxy. I always have Gorilla glue on hand. $60.00 allotted for paint should be sufficient (1 gal./ea for interior & exterior colors). $20.00 for roller, 2 sleeves (1 for each color-washed between applications), paint trays, and sand paper. I am budgeting $120.00 for restoration. I think that should cover it.
Yes, an aluminum would be easier. I did shop them. However, perhaps because of all the small lakes in Florida, the smaller, lighter, boats are in high demand and the prices reflect this. A 10-12', welded (not riveted) w/ trolling motor is going for between $150.00 to 3-4 hundred dollars. Okay. The Snark is a total of $220.00. For that I could get a decent aluminum job.
Here's "the thing". I buy the Snark. I put 1-2 weeks of "me" into it. When I put it in the water, that is my boat. It is not just a boat I boat I bought from someone else that, now, belongs to me. When the Snark hits the water, it will be what it is, because of me. My Mom always said that love comes from the acts of caring.
When I was a kid, my Dad wasn't around much. My grandfather (my Papa) was my joy! We would take his boat out to the "rock pits' every Saturday. Those fishing trips were my freedom and the memories of that time with my "Poppa" are precious. When I get out on the lake, I expect to feel him with me and I know that sitting in my boat, out there in the quiet, will always be s special time for me. I want my boat to be Mine and special, just like my memories and my Papa.
I have made my decision. I am going to get the Snark. I will care for and love it. I will paint it off-white & a medium tone gray "Pelican Bay" and, if I get fancy, a stripe of dark blue called "Night Tide". All Behr paint.
Officially, she will be titled "Papa's Patrimony", but , verbally, I will call her "Poppy".
Any thoughts or pitfalls with my plan?
Please be honest and constructive :)
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

Uhhmmm, I'm sorry but I don't think you quite understand what all is required to repair the Snark. You not only will need epoxy but you will need fiberglass fabric to recreate the "Skin" of the boat. I truly believe you'll need 2-3 gallons of Epoxy and 3-5 yards of Fabric to get her repaired. Your costs for Epoxy and Cloth alone would be over $300 IMHO. Then you still have paint etc. There's a lot more to it than you realize. It can be done but not for $120 dollars.
 

sphelps

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 16, 2011
Messages
11,475
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

I understand your feelings of your Grandfather . That's is a nice tribute to him . When you do this project try and think how he would have done it . And let that be guide .
My thought is I don't think latex paint would hold up very well . Oil based enamel would be tougher and still keep cost down .
Prolly cost more on your epoxy than you think .
Good luck and keep us posted !
 

bakerjw

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
288
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

I love to see people dedicated to bringing something back to life, but at a point reality sets in and has to be dealt with. You're definitely going to have to go with epoxy so right there, you're looking at around $75.00 a gallon. If it were me, I'd look into the option of reskinning the entire boat. There are some fiberglass weaves out there that will conform very readily to the contours of the hull. Also be prepared for the gotchas that come along. My original goal of around $2K on my current project went out the window after about 3 or 4 weeks. I don't even want to add it all up now. So be prepared.

The bad news is that it takes time, effort and money. The good news is that you can make it exactly what you want and will know how well it's made when you're out in it.

In the end, when you and the pooch take it out and someone comments on what a great boat that it is, you can beam proudly. Almost everyone here has picked up a boat only to find that there was a rot monster lurking inside. It is discouraging as can be. But the people here are supportive with the "Yes you can!" mentality. Hang in there and make it what you want it to be.

Oh yeah, and once reskinned, you can use enamel paint on the outside of the hull.
 
Last edited:

Amasoa

Cadet
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Messages
10
Re: deck and stringer replacement

Re: deck and stringer replacement

Good morning, All!
According to CastleCraft (manufacturers these boats), I can fiberglass it, if I desire, but not necessary. The original skin was made of plastic, not fiberglass. The vessel, it's self, is one solid pc. of dense foam. Any holes, gouges, or cracks, can be filled with foam (closed cell is best if available). An actual "mix" of shredded foam and urethane glue will allow it to be "pushed" into cavity, adhere to form, harden & be waterproof, and then shaved/sanded to flush. I am not sure why the latex paint is suggested. Perhaps it is because it will form a "skin" not unlike originally used. It is strongly stressed that use of petroleum or polyester products, as they will damage the boat material.
If I do, actually, need to use fiberglass fabric, I need to know, as this would, indeed, break my budget and render this a huge mistake. If you could take the time to find a website for me as to this fact, I would greatly appreciate it.
THANKS!
 
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