Ready to sart 18hp (1957)?

yam350yfm

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
79
Much thanks to all on the forums that have provided the advise and pointers to get me this far!

I am ready to fire a 1957 fd-11 18hp Johnson that has not run in 4 years. The motor now pulls through, has new coils, condensers, points, plugs...the pressure tank has new gaskets and hose, and a new impeller was installed.

Questions:
1. One manual showed the plug gap at .032 and one at .030.
2. One book has the points gap at .024 and the other book has .020

As of now I went with .030 for plugs and .020 for points. Is this correct? Any tips to get it to fire quickly, instead of pulling the rope all day as it is a pull start only. Not sure if there is any way to get starting fluid into it, or any additives to the gas that would provide a quicker start.

I have the motor on a stand and have a large drum for the water source. It appears that the motor would have to be in gear to give it any throttle.
 

mchin

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 15, 2007
Messages
195
Re: Ready to sart 18hp (1957)?

not sure about the gap questions, there are a lot of guys here who have tons of tech know how and can give the gaps spec spot on. I do know that the limited throttle/spark advance is a safety feature, my 59, 18 hp johnson is the same way. when it's in gear I can go the full range. I guess this is to prevent a boater from starting the motor while in gear and at full throttle, I imagine one could get tossed pretty far out of the boat, especially with an 18 hp motor.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Ready to sart 18hp (1957)?

water needs to be atleast 1/2 way up the leg. your gaps are correct, pump up the tanks till the button is really hard, this gets gas to the carbs, set your carb needles as in the reference. Neutral, throttle as far as it will turn, choke activated. pull rope. should start 3rd pull. then fine turn needles.
--------------------------------------------------
(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle va /lve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, wating for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
 

yam350yfm

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 26, 2007
Messages
79
Re: Ready to sart 18hp (1957)?

Thanks for the procedure, that is a huge help. I am ordering the owners manual for the motor here on iboats. I did order a carb rebuild kit in case I have any problems either with the initial start of the boat, or after a good decarb procedure.
 
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