Rear sliding doors for 1975 SS 16'

jdupree

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
185
The one thing my 1975 SS 16 is missing are the rear doors back at the transom area. Were these sliding doors? I assume that there was some sort of track on the deck? I am sure finding the original doors are near about impossible, but could someone tell me the dimensions of the doors so I could make some? If someone could get me a picture of their setup as far as those doors go I would appreciate it.
 

laurentide

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
1,869
Page 32, post #471 and on to page 33 in the thread in my signature has some pics of my rear slider fab/install. I used 3/4" channels, two parallel across the deck, and 5/8" ply so they wouldn't bind. I tried to post the link but it froze the page. You'll have to take your own measurements for your boat, as the tolerances will vary based on deck thickness and imperfections. Perforated sheet metal for the screen areas, I just used SS staples to fasten them. Take your time and they'll come out nice.
 

laurentide

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
1,869
Thanks JB. The forum is not very tablet friendly right now. Now that I'm at my PC, here are the photos:

These first two are just roughed in before the channels were installed.

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Finished product:

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Credit to GA Boater for helping me figure these out last year. They slide well yet stay put in rough seas. It makes a great hiding spot for batteries/wiring and fuel.

You'll need to countersink the screws fastening the channels to the deck so the doors will slide over the screws. I also left a gap at each end of the channels so rain water can get back to the bilge quickly...just crack the doors and it'll go back to the pump in a downpour.
 
Last edited:

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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May 24, 2011
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49,038
Thanks, Chem. You'll make me blush. The end gap for water to bilge flow - Great idea. How is the fuel tank hold down trick working?

JD - What I told Chem about was how to make the slider tracks. You can tell if your SS had doors or a vinyl curtain by feeling/looking under the front of the splashwell at the top where the doors would meet the splashwell. If there is a one piece double channel looking like this |_|_| - you had doors. If no channel, no problem, you can fab up some channel. I looked everywhere and couldn't find a source, but HD/Lowes have what you need to make some.

You need some "C" channel and some "L" aluminum channel. The width of the "C" should be a little wider than the door wood thickness so the door doesn't bind. The "L" isn't as critical because you can play with the spacing for a good fit.

If you don't have a top channel, first secure a length of "L" to the front of the splashwell, with the open side to the rear and flush. Using some scrap from the door cuts for spacing, mount the "C" behind the "L".

The bottom, it's the same except you start with the "C" by placing the door in the bottom channel, fitting the door top in the rear upper channel by angling the bottom toward the bow and sliding the door with the bottom channel toward the stern. Once the door is vertical, let it all rest. Then do the same with the other door, door top into the top channel, slide the bottom toward the stern and slip the "L" channel under the door bottom. After checking the doors for binding and fit, drill and screw down the channels, countersinking the heads.

If the doors are too tall, you will have trouble pushing the bottoms in to vertical. Trim the doors in very small increments because if you get them too short the tops of the doors will fall out of the upper channels. It takes some trial and error test fitting, but in the end you will have some nice sliding doors. I would wait until you get everything fitting well before painting/finishing the wood.

Here is what my doors looked like originally on splash day before any work:

http://

Unlike Chem, I have some honeycomb stuff between the doors. It looks nice, but a pain to work under the splashwell. It restricts access under there, but just wanted to show you a variation. You can see how the top channel is flush with the edge of the splashwell. Also, on the top of the left door, notice the white marks. The white is some plastic channel stapled to the door, same on the door bottom. It's like a slider friction reducer of sorts. Another thing I haven't been able to find. I salvaged what could. Some are using thin strips of poly cutting board on the door tops and bottoms to the ease the sliding. And one final thing. I don't know if you can see it, but the doors have a taper, wider at the top so you end up with a left and a right door.

There you have it. I didn't mean to over simplify, but I never know who might read this in the future. Hope this helps. :smile: Chapter two coming up.:facepalm:
 

laurentide

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
1,869
Thanks, Chem. You'll make me blush. The end gap for water to bilge flow - Great idea. How is the fuel tank hold down trick working?

JD - What I told Chem about was how to make the slider tracks. You can tell if your SS had doors or a vinyl curtain by feeling/looking under the front of the splashwell at the top where the doors would meet the splashwell. If there is a one piece double channel looking like this |_|_| - you had doors. If no channel, no problem, you can fab up some channel. I looked everywhere and couldn't find a source, but HD/Lowes have what you need to make some.

You need some "C" channel and some "L" aluminum channel. The width of the "C" should be a little wider than the door wood thickness so the door doesn't bind. The "L" isn't as critical because you can play with the spacing for a good fit.

If you don't have a top channel, first secure a length of "L" to the front of the splashwell, with the open side to the rear and flush. Using some scrap from the door cuts for spacing, mount the "C" behind the "L".

The bottom, it's the same except you start with the "C" by placing the door in the bottom channel, fitting the door top in the rear upper channel by angling the bottom toward the bow and sliding the door with the bottom channel toward the stern. Once the door is vertical, let it all rest. Then do the same with the other door, door top into the top channel, slide the bottom toward the stern and slip the "L" channel under the door bottom. After checking the doors for binding and fit, drill and screw down the channels, countersinking the heads.

If the doors are too tall, you will have trouble pushing the bottoms in to vertical. Trim the doors in very small increments because if you get them too short the tops of the doors will fall out of the upper channels. It takes some trial and error test fitting, but in the end you will have some nice sliding doors. I would wait until you get everything fitting well before painting/finishing the wood.

Here is what my doors looked like originally on splash day before any work:

http://

Unlike Chem, I have some honeycomb stuff between the doors. It looks nice, but a pain to work under the splashwell. It restricts access under there, but just wanted to show you a variation. You can see how the top channel is flush with the edge of the splashwell. Also, on the top of the left door, notice the white marks. The white is some plastic channel stapled to the door, same on the door bottom. It's like a slider friction reducer of sorts. Another thing I haven't been able to find. I salvaged what could. Some are using thin strips of poly cutting board on the door tops and bottoms to the ease the sliding. And one final thing. I don't know if you can see it, but the doors have a taper, wider at the top so you end up with a left and a right door.

There you have it. I didn't mean to over simplify, but I never know who might read this in the future. Hope this helps. :smile: Chapter two coming up.:facepalm:

My fuel tank is rock solid in place, GA. I completely forgot about the "L" and "C" going together...glad you chimed in to clarify for other's future reference.
 

SigSaurP229

Commander
Joined
Oct 1, 2008
Messages
2,123
The really great thing about building your boat is you can make it however you want. Get creative and function, I built a set of mini sliders and attached a bench to the hull, added more seating and storage space both.

 

jdupree

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 11, 2006
Messages
185
Thanks guys for the assistance! I found out that my dad saved the track that goes to the deck and the other hardware. The doors were rotten so he threw them out. Having the channel for the deck will make things much easier!
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
49,038
Having the tracks is going to make it a lot easier, jd. Glad you found them. :smile:
 
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