Rebuild question

[Bullie]

If you experienced guys were going to teach someone to rebuild an outboard, something they would most likely succeed with, what motor would you choose? The reason I ask is that I would like to learn how to do some basic stuff, but more advanced than what you guys have led me through to this point, such as replacing rings, bearings, checking pistons, etc. I would like to know which motor I should be looking out for that (should) be reasonably easy and inexpensive to learn on. It would need to be a fairly small motor... Like 25 hp and under. What would you guys recommend?

 

[dazk14]

Most any OMC motors from the 1970's on. Does this need to make financial sense? Certainly a motor that you can directly use helps the matter.

 

[gm280]

I would look for a motor that still has available parts for it. And a motor that isn't so old that you would be searching all over the place for the usual parts like pistons and rings and such. So scan the parts pages and see what is available and the cost of such parts and go from there. I would also stick with an engine that could be sold easily if you wanted too, after your rebuilt/learning efforts. Something folks can relate too. Like Mercury and Johnson. While Johnsons are not manufactured anymore, they still get people's attention and are very good engines to rebuilt... You could also go for the newer models but again search for the possible parts you may need first... JMHO!

 

[bob johnson]

pick up a late 80's 9.9 or 15 hp ... they are always in demand... and there are LOTS of parts around...and you can use it on small utility boats and canoes.

plus there is a web site ,

http://www.leeroysramblings.com/OMC_info/OMCinfo.htm

and that precludes you from having to reinvent a wheel...so to speak...lots of info on those motors


good luck

bob

 

[achris]

Agree with ^^^. Will add, GET A MANUAL.... That is an absolutely essential. And not just any manual, get OEM... Make sure you have a good range of 1/4" and 3/8" drive sockets (1/2" drive is too big to work on outboards).

There are a few special tools you'll need too. Some can easily be made, some it's worth buying. A flywheel puller is essential, and easily made. I used a piece of 1/2" plate and drilled the hold screw holes. Big hole in the middle with a big fine thread bolt and nut as a forcing screw. Rebate the end will a drill and put a ball bearing in it. You can drill multiple hole patterns and have a puller for all seasons..

If you're going to do any work on the ignition system you're going to need a DVA. Also easily built -> http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=374544

For the gearbox you'll need another puller. That one you may need to buy.

I have a float height tool (carb) which I'm happy to measure up and post here if you want it (there might already be those dimensions here anyway)...

Good luck, and plenty of help on iboats...

Chris.....

 

[Bullie]

Thanks guys. That gives me a starting point. I will start looking for a non-running Evinrude or Johnson. Kind of what I figured you guys would advise me to do but I wanted to make sure.

It doesn't have to make a whole lot of fiscal sense but I would like to be close to a break even situation if possible. Lately, I have purchased or repaired for friends an 89 Evinrude 15, 74 Johnson 15, a Mercury 9.9 (not really much at all wrong with this one), and a 1984 Sea King (Chrylser). But, none have had any power head issues. I am picking up a Johnson 9.9 next weekend but I think it just has a fuel issue.

I am into all of these really good but I am finding that I don't want to sell them after I get them going. I wasn't expecting to get attached but this has turned into a weird hobby/obsession. I get a bit stir crazy when I don't have one to work on.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Look for one that says low compression then you know you most likely will need to open her up.
Also be wary of salt ones as undoing salt seized bolts can be a real unappealing, time consuming chore

 

[Bullie]

I picked up a 9.9 Johnson today for $150. I bought it from a young man that said it belonged to his grandfather and hasn't been started since before his death over 10 years ago. It looks really clean under the cowl but has lots of dirt dauber nests. Another project even if it doesn't need a rebuild. I pulled the plugs and squirted in some fogging oil and hand turned the flywheel a little. It isn't a particular desirable model, 1974, but you never know. It might start right up with a little cleaning.

 

[dazk14]

Nothing wrong with a 74. We sell those as easily as the later years.
The motor/ ignition likes the slightly hotter NGK B7HS.
Congrats!

 

[Bullie]

I bought the motor in the dark. I didn't even really look at it until today. It was advertised as a 9.9 but it turns out that it is a 15 hp with a 9.9 cowl. Gotta like that. Compression is 115 and 110. Bright blue spark jumping 7/16 inch. Also gotta like that. But there are some issues that I have not seen before.

I was trying gear selector and was having an "Oh No!" moment until I gave the linkage and fuel pump a look. What is up with that? I thought it was the wrong fuel pump but I checked it against another Johnson 15 I repaired for my nephew and the numbers match so it is the right one. I guess it is just assembled incorrectly. I have not messed with the fuel pumps on the Johnson/Evinrude yet but have been warned that they have some small parts that try to get away when the pump is disassembled. Will I have to disassemble it or just turn the outer gas line connection to the correct orientation? It looks like it needs rotated 1/4 turn clockwise. And, does that yellow metal look like some form of jerry rigging to move the gear notches farther from the fuel pump?


Do I need a new float? It looks like the cork type I have read about but has no soft spots and is very light. Another question. The pin that the float articulates on was not a pin but rather a plastic tube, is that normal. The others carbs I have cleaned have a metal pin there.