rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

[jdbwvd]

Hey all,

I've been rebuilding the lower unit of my 1955 evinrude fleetwin and have come up with three questions.

First, the diagrams don't show any seal washers under the heads of the 6 screws that hold the very bottom gearbox casting on. But, these are inside of the o-ring channel, so they could leak. Should I be putting some RTV silicone under the screw heads here?

Second, I ordered a gearbox seal kit, and it did not come with a seal washer for the the shift linkage pivot screw... It did come with an extra o-ring that could be stretched to fit under the head of the screw, but then it will just be crushed, and I cant' believe it wouldn't crack out pretty quickly. Any ideas?

Third, when I bolt the water pump together with the new impeller, the driveshaft running through becomes VERY hard to turn, much harder than I expected. I've dismantled and re-assembled this many times, and I can't come up with any other resistance aside from the squeezed impeller. Is this normal?

Thanks guys, I know these are little things, but I want to do it correctly once.

Jonathan

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

When these engines were made, they used Marproc 1000 sealer, but any good gasket sealer will work under the screws. As for the shift pivot pin, I have many times used the red seal washer from a carb. kit. Have you got the the water pump-bearing plate fully seated? Also check the clutch spring under this plate that it is not broken.

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

thanks for the dvice on the screws... As far as the hard-turning driveshaft goes, the clutch/shaft assembly underneath it operates fine, very easy to turn. I did replace the water pump lower housing (bearing), but it is seating all the way down as far as I can tell. I don't have the bevel set assembled yet, so the only things assembled are the clutch shaft through water pump.

Now that I think about it, if the clutch shaft is sandwiched between the bearing in the top of the gearcase and the pump lower housing bearing, then that could be rubbing. If so, I guess it just needs to "run in", or I could lap it down a bit.

I guess what I need to know about the driveshaft resistance to turning is "how hard is too hard"? Right now, I have to hold the lower unit in one hand, use channelocks on the spline end of the drive shaft and pull hard enough to be straining a bit. Surely that's too hard? (don't worry, I'm not hurting the spline end).

thanks,
Jonathan

 

[R.Johnson]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

That is to hard, check the clutch spring, does it become stacked as you turn it.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

I think, as R.Johnson is elluding to, that the spring in your shock absorber is broken. What has happened is that the spring in the shock absorber broke causing the assembly to violently stretch-out and break the bearing housing, which you replaced. The shock absorber shouldn't contact the bottom of the bearing housing. So you need to do one of two things. Either get a replacement shock absorber or compress and weld the broken one and start using brass drive pins. I vote for the replacement, however, I did just recently weld one that I plan to use as a spare.

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

Also, make sure you have the correct gasket between the pump/bearing base and the housing. It is a relatively thick gasket and can help to clearance the lower shaft to the bearing on the underside of the base...
- Scott

 

[F_R]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

There is a history of aftermarket (Sierra) impellers for that motor being too thick. That could be your trouble. Try assembling it without the impeller. If it's still tight, it's the shock absorber.

Here is the story on the shock absorber:

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

I'll get my calipers out and do some measuring of old and new parts. I'll also look at the absorber. Can you all tell me what height the absorber section is supposed to be? I sure hope the shock absorber is ok, I've already put too much money into this old girl, but it's too late to look back. it's been very educational though.

Thanks for all the info guys, keep it coming if you have any other ideas.

Jonathan

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

Hello all,

I don't believe my shock absorber spring is broken... If I shine a light down the hole and inspect it entirely, there are no cracks or abnormalities. As well, it doesn't "compress" at all, even in a vice. Also, there are no witness marks on the outside diameter below where the two spring tube halves meet, which I would expect if that joint moved.

The sierra impeller rubber is a bit thicker, causing some of the resistance. The other source of resistance is between the lower driveshaft and the lower water pump housing bearing. On this housing, the distance between bearing face and flange face is about 15-20 thou over the original piece.... this may indicate that the original housing wore down to make clearance, or that the replacement piece is a bit out of spec. My gasket is the paper one packaged in the standard lower unit seal kit, and it was similar to the one it replaced.

So, my conclusion is: Either the proper gasket is thicker than the replacement one, or it is required that you lap in the bearing face a bit... maybe they expect that to occur naturally. I suspect both would solve my current problem.

Any takers?

Jonathan

 

[pbeamtn]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

I'm not an expert, but I am working on the exact same motor myself. On my motor, with the impeller, it will turn much more easily one way than the other. I put a small crescent wrench on the spline end, and I can turn it one direction with some effort, but I would not call it straining. If I try to turn it the other direction, it seems almost impossible -- the impeller will jam against the side walls.

Perhaps, I am the only one stupid enough to try to turn the shaft the "wrong" way, but you don't indicate which direction you are trying to turn the shaft. If you actually pull the impeller housing and try to turn just the impeller by hand, you will see what I am talking about.

Just my $0.02.

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

Good point on the impeller, however my problem was definitely clearance between the lower driveshaft and the lower bearing housing. The gasket that came with the seal kit was 0.015" thick, so I made one out of rubberized paper that is 0.030" thick. Now I have "just a tiny amount" of play in the lower shaft, with the pump fully installed, and the resistance to turning has dropped accordingly.

Now I have to decide how to adjust the shift rod or detents such that neutral is actually neutral. When I opened the gearcase up, the detent springs were missing. So, I installed a used set, but instead of F, N, R, I've got F, F, R. My guess is either the shift lever has been bent, or, somehow I've been given detent springs from the wrong year and the detent position is wrong. Any other things to look at?

 

[pbeamtn]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

No clue on your detent problem.

However, I am curious about your gasket between the head unit and the lower unit. My gasket is for a '56 (came in a rebuild kit) but it is not the right thing for my motor. I'm attaching a picture, since this is hard to explain, but the gasket has one area where it curves, while my casting is straight. Using this gasket would allow water to pour into the center section instead of going into the head. I had taken the lower unit apart about 6 times, and I was really anxious to get the whole thing together when I discovered this. I am going to cut my own using the one I have as a template -- but going straight instead of curving.

 

[jdbwvd]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

I haven't yet gotten to the power head on my rebuild, but I took a look at it for you, and the gasket that was installed in my motor is seemingly incorrect as well. That would definitely leak water, I agree. I would think we could find the right one... but it isn't hard to cut one yourself either. My local auto parts store (O'Reilly) has 8"x3' rolls of 0.015" and 0.030" thick "rubberized fiber" gasket material for about 4 dollars each.

It's funny that we're both doing the same motor at the same time. It's my first rebuild. If you want to compare anything else, don't hesitate to repost... It's definitely been a learning experience for me.

 

[tumleweed]

Re: rebuilding 1955 fleetwin... couple questions

hey guys, i just acquired a (what i think is a 1954 --7514--7.5) with the broken shock absorber spring and it pushed the center out of the lower water pump housing and bent the wear plate, messed up the keyway in the impeller also .are these parts expensive and where can i get them? also this motor has what i think is a 1957 engine couling on it, the tag on the clamps claims 7514 which is a 1954 is there casting numbers on the block to tell for sure what year? i am trying to locate 2 pull rope guides that protect the rope from the clamshell couling. thanks mike 540-379-1113