Re: Rebuilding tool batteries?
Why not the plumbers type?
Also, where do you get braided copper strap?
Also, I have another question. I have one 2.6 mAH NiMH battery. It sat, brand new, for a long time before I got around to trying to use it. It would finish very quickly on the charger but when you plugged it in to a light, it was very yellow and/or it would barely turn the drill over.
I thought maybe it had dead cells so I checked the voltage. It shows, within a few tenths, the same 18+ volts as my other freshly charged short legged NiCad batts.
What gives? The way it performs I would think it would show lower voltage. There is something I am missing here.
Plumber's flux is acid based. If not washed off, it will corrode over time. Electrical soldering is done with rosin core solder.
A real good 60/40 or 63/37 (eutectic) rosin core solder is recommended. A close second can be bought in small quantities from places like Radio Shack.
Most solder has a state while it is cooling where crystals are suspended in a liquid (plastic state). If the connection is moved while it is cooling through this state, you will have a bad (cold solder) joint. Eutectic solder is alloyed so that it has no plastic state. It also has the lowest possible melting point for an alloy of tin and lead.
Braided copper strap is a normal wire commodity. You can get a small amount of it by stripping the outer insulation off a piece of coax cable and then salvage the shield.
There's more to battery condition than open circuit voltage, such as internal resistance, storage capacity, etc.
hope it helps
John