Reconfigure gauges on center console

[allpoints360]

Ahoy,

Long time reader; new member.

I'd like to reconfigure my center console (McKee) with new gauges. It has holes from the old gauges and controls. I am going to make a panel for the new gauges versus cutting individual holes for each, so I want to restore the center console to start with a clean palette.

The center console is built from 3/4 plywood with cloth and gel.

Have you done this? How would you do it? Cut plywood to fit the old holes, glue in place, bevel the edges, fill and sand to smooth, and spray with gelcoat?

Once done, what's the best way to cut smooth the new openings?

Let me know what you think would be the best approach. Kind regards.

 

[Numlaar]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

Personally if it were me, I wouldn't mess around with trying to make plugs for the holes...

I would cut it out squared off, and make one replacement plate to put back.

I would fiberglass cloth/resin it from the back side after gluing in place (PL)

Then glass the face of it to level it back out with the glass from the CC, (may take a couple layers)... feather in the edges, and re-gel the whole thing for an even finish.

Have you done this? How would you do it? Cut plywood to fit the old holes, glue in place, bevel the edges, fill and sand to smooth, and spray with gelcoat?

(I wouldnt just gel coat exposed wood... if they have fiberglass over the wood when they built the CC, then when you put your "plug" back you will need to build the glass up anyway, and this will also seal the wood)


Heres what I did:
My boat was a side console, and had no dash to speak of (no gauges either), so I basically built a little 3/4" plywood box to go on top, glassed it, filled the seam to where it met the old dash, and gel-coated the whole thing... came ok .. I wasnt going for super pretty just functional.

To cut the holes for the gauges you can use a hole saw the appropriate size, but I didnt want to shell out the 60 bucks for one to make 2 holes with (and probably never use again), so i just used a rotozip. Not the prettiest holes, but the gauge flange covers up the imperfections nicely.

Before

After gel coat:

And with all the gauges in

 

[allpoints360]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

Thanks Numlaar, Strong work on your project.

I would cut it out squared off, and make one replacement plate to put back.

I would fiberglass cloth/resin it from the back side after gluing in place (PL)

Then glass the face of it to level it back out with the glass from the CC, (may take a couple layers)... feather in the edges, and re-gel the whole thing for an even finish.

I hear what you're saying and it makes sense. Do you think it's necessary to glass it from the back?

I would include some photos, but mine are way too big! How did you get your pics on?

Kind regards.

 

[Numlaar]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

Thanks Numlaar, Strong work on your project.

No problem and thank you!

I hear what you're saying and it makes sense. Do you think it's necessary to glass it from the back?

I would say yes... simply for the fact that its not one solid piece.... this will give it some added strength to keep it from flexing and possibly cracking the face/gelcoat... you wouldnt want your work to be ruined from a rough ride.

I would include some photos, but mine are way too big! How did you get your pics on?

Kind regards.

You have to resize them, I use photo bucket and it has an automatic setting to resize them. The max size for posting directly into the forums is 640 x 480

Hope that helps!

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

If you're looking for a faster and easier way to do the dash, go down to the local plastics store (just about every town of any size has one) and pick out a piece the size needed. There's so many choices of color, pattern, texture, etc, that it may be hard to pick one. The plastic will be easy to work with and if you mess it up just get another piece. You shouldn't need to do anything to the current dash other than cut out more of it so the new gauges fit where you want them. The new panel just sits over the old space and screw it down.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

Rather than glass or glue the new dash , I would screw it in place , that will make future access easier unless you like crawling on your back under the console and fighting with the spiders.

 

[allpoints360]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

Thanks for direction on photobucket, Numlaar!

The binnacle is in the middle of the dash which I think would keep me from cutting a large piece out and making a panel for the gauges. I think the binnacle will need a firm mount.

I'm thinking that the best approach is to repair the holes, cut 3/4 plywood, glue in place, glass from the back (Numlaar) and begin again.

What do you think is the best way to make the cleanest cut through the gelcoat and plywood?

 

[jonesg]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

Its laid out all wrong, I'd do the whole thing or nothing, pull the whole lot including steering, cut the whole face open leaving enough lip for new faceplate . Its easier in the end.

 

[Numlaar]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

Thanks for direction on photobucket, Numlaar!

No Problem, anytime!

The binnacle is in the middle of the dash which I think would keep me from cutting a large piece out and making a panel for the gauges. I think the binnacle will need a firm mount.

I'm thinking that the best approach is to repair the holes, cut 3/4 plywood, glue in place, glass from the back (Numlaar) and begin again.

If you remove the helm and cut an entire new piece, you will still mostly have the same strength as the original as long as its glassed in good.

What do you think is the best way to make the cleanest cut through the gelcoat and plywood?

I use a rotozip for small or circular shape holes, or a air angle die grinder to make the big square holes, (can use the roto zip too). Either one spins fast enough to avoid damaging the gelcoat by the cut. (I would avoid a sawzall because a reciprocating saw would have a tendency to chip the gel out from the back on the return stroke).

Its laid out all wrong, I'd do the whole thing or nothing, pull the whole lot including steering, cut the whole face open leaving enough lip for new faceplate . Its easier in the end.

I agree... Both for making it easier, (wont have to work around the steering in the back, etc.), and personally I dont like the layout myself... too lopsided... I would make a whole new plate, center the steering, throttle on the right, switch panel on the left, gauges center over wheel (if room) or placed appropriately where they are easy to read while in operation.

The way it looks now it looks clunky, looks like you have to stand all the way to the left to drive, and have to stretch way past the throttle to reach the stuff all the way over on the right.

Just my opinion

 

[allpoints360]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

Its laid out all wrong, I'd do the whole thing or nothing, pull the whole lot including steering, cut the whole face open leaving enough lip for new faceplate . Its easier in the end.

LoL! That's the way it came originally, save the radio in the upper right. But I can't disagree with your point that it will be just as difficult to do half of it as the whole thing. Thanks.

I would make a whole new plate, center the steering, throttle on the right, switch panel on the left, gauges center over wheel (if room) or placed appropriately where they are easy to read while in operation.

Numlaar, you've been consistenly helpful!

The helm would need to stay at about the same parallel, I'd think. Is there a rule of thumb for the helm mounting height? If I lowered it just two inches, that would create more usable area over the wheel. That would be very useful, but possibly at the expense of steering comfort?

Lastly, will a roto zip woud go through 3/4 plywood? I don't own one, but have used one on sheetrock before.

 

[Numlaar]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

Numlaar, you've been consistenly helpful!

LOL!!! Well I am finally glad I can just help someone else out for a change!

The helm would need to stay at about the same parallel, I'd think. Is there a rule of thumb for the helm mounting height? If I lowered it just two inches, that would create more usable area over the wheel. That would be very useful, but possibly at the expense of steering comfort?

You can adjust the horizontal height of the helm to suit you needs, only if moving the helm down, doesn't cause you to have to put an excessive bend in the steering cable. (Steering cables with too tight of a bend, make it harder to steer, and cause premature cable wear). I dont think moving it down a couple of inches will hurt anything... as for the height while in operation, you would have to decide that... You can always take it out, cut a new hole in the old console (since you'll be cutting it out anyway), and test the fit for the cable, and the comfort for you while standing. This way you know it will be how you like it, and you dont mess up the new piece. Thats how I did mine, basically cut out some paper circles the size of the gauges, and taped them to the dash, moving them around until I got the fit I was happy with, before I cut the holes!

Lastly, will a roto zip woud go through 3/4 plywood? I don't own one, but have used one on sheetrock before.

Yes it will work just fine, but you have to move it slowly, or you will overheat the bit, and snap them off. Just work it slow! If you see the bit starting to blue, it means you have too much pressure on it.

I really want to see how yours turns out when your done!

 

[allpoints360]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

cut out some paper circles the size of the gauges, and taped them to the dash, moving them around until I got the fit

I did this, and I'm glad I did. Since I have 2 helm seats behind the center console, moving the helm to center would be like moving a car steering wheel to the center of the dash... no good.

So I'll keep the helm to port. Then I'll make the large cut out right, refinish, make smaller cut out for a panel for the gauges that I can attach with screws. Then it should be right.

I will update with pix as I go. Thanks again for the counsel!

 

[Numlaar]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

I did this, and I'm glad I did. Since I have 2 helm seats behind the center console, moving the helm to center would be like moving a car steering wheel to the center of the dash... no good.

So I'll keep the helm to port. Then I'll make the large cut out right, refinish, make smaller cut out for a panel for the gauges that I can attach with screws. Then it should be right.

I will update with pix as I go. Thanks again for the counsel!

AHHH well that makes sense then.

Have fun with it!

 

[allpoints360]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

I thought I would update on my center console reconfig. I decided to basically start over, redo the entire console. I did not relocate the helm, however. I could have, but moving it would have netted about an inch or two difference from where it is, so I felt it was fine. The rest had to go...

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Since the thickness I removed was nearly an inch thick, I went with 3/4 ply A-C and cut to fit. I used 5200 to glue into place. But I had to had "tabs" to the insert to hold it flush with the back of the console. Once the 5200 dried (I'd use 4200 next time), I could remove the tabs.

[/IMG]

I used 1 1/2 oz mat with 24 oz roving in between. This was laid a bit large to compensate for the difference in the insert and the cut out.

[/IMG]

After this, it became apparent that the insert was not exactly level. In some areas, it was 1/4" deep, in other areas, not so much. I chose duragass to use as a filler.

[/IMG]

 

[allpoints360]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

I tried to level as best I could with the filler, and it was better, but not perfect. So I next used bondo as the next filler to level it out. After sanding, it was close, but still not flat and flush. You can easily see the high side on the right. The low spots were lower left and upper left.

[/IMG]

The last filler I used was icing, and I thought I got a pic, but can't find one now. Anyway, after the icing, it was really close. Close enough to spray. And since I had a sunny day, spray I did.

[/IMG]

And here's one with a different perspective...

[/IMG]

Of course, by the time I took the pics, I had removed most of the paper. I will probably spray once more. Even though I wanted to spray only once, I didn't mix enough gel to match, and after I sanded some, I see the need for another spray.

 

[jonesg]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

I think I would have opted for a teak or other hardwood panel and left the hole open, just seal the cut edges. I'm lazy.

But you did a very good job, looks as original as new.

 

[allpoints360]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

I think I would have opted for a teak or other hardwood panel

Jonesg - Right, just what I was thinking, except for the binnacle. I didn't want to attach it to a panel for structural reasons. I guess I didn't believe the panel would be strong enough in the long run? I'm certain this will be strong enough, even if I wanted to switch the helm to the "wrong" side. Ha!

But I will next make cuts for a couple of gauge panels, and I think I am going with teak panels. I just haven't decided exactly?

I'll update as I go. Thanks.

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

The reason a panel was suggested in the beginning is because it is strong enough and very common, even on new construction.

There's nothing wrong with the way you did it, it just requires a great deal more work.

 

[allpoints360]

Re: Reconfigure gauges on center console

The reason a panel was suggested in the beginning is because it is strong enough and very common, even on new construction.

There's nothing wrong with the way you did it, it just requires a great deal more work.

Thanks, I'm sure it was good advice that I should have taken. (I've noticed this pattern in my life... and I usually end up kicking myself.) But I've been caught too often trying to make it back to the marina when the weather's caught me off guard, and the only thing my two hand have to hold onto, as the boat slams from wave to wave, is the helm and the throttle. So I didn't want to have any doubts.

Btw, I usually end up doing more work than it takes, too. Whew!

I'll let you see how it turns out. I'm leaning towards teak.