rectifier problem

bm258

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 25, 2004
Messages
89
I have a 1990 Johnson GT100. I had a problem with the old tach. would run then shut off at times, then come back on. I bought a new tach. Same Problem. Saould I assume the problem is the Rectifier?
 

Sherman

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 19, 2003
Messages
173
Re: rectifier problem

Could very well be but first check that the rectifier wire connections are good or (like mine) that the mounting screws are tight and clean.
 

bm258

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 25, 2004
Messages
89
Re: rectifier problem

I have seen several different prices on rectifiers. Will this be @ a $40 repair, or the dreaded $200 repair? Thanks for the replies.
 

ob

Admiral
Joined
Aug 16, 2002
Messages
6,992
Re: rectifier problem

Depending on whether your model has Trim/Tilt,they range from around $38 - $72.
 

marinemech

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 12, 2004
Messages
250
Re: rectifier problem

you probably have a rect/regulator<br />gray wire drives the tach circuit<br />if using vro you need the gray wire alive to operate the no oil warning if not see if battery charging circuit still works if it is charging maybe you can live without a tach
 

bm258

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 25, 2004
Messages
89
Re: rectifier problem

Thanks for all of the help. Marinemech. I am not sure that i understand. could you clarify? I premix the oil so i guess that means that the VRO is not used? Sorry for the stupidity, but i am still kinda new to this. Thanks again fo rthe help.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: rectifier problem

BM258.... The following should be of some interest to you.<br /><br />(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)<br /> (J. Reeves)<br /><br />A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).<br /><br />A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.<br /><br />However.... those watercooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35amp charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.<br /><br />The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.<br /><br />Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.<br /><br />If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.<br /><br />I've found this method to be a quick and efficent way offinding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disasterous consequences.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: rectifier problem

BM258.... And since you're pre-mixing but apparently don't fully understand the setup, the following might enlighten you somewhat.<br /><br />(VRO Changeover Judgement Call) <br />(J. Reeves)<br /> <br /> The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.<br /><br />Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.<br /><br />The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.<br /><br />********************<br />(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)<br />(J. Reeves)<br /><br />You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:<br /><br />1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.<br /><br />2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.<br /><br />3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quanity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.<br /><br />That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.
 

bm258

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 25, 2004
Messages
89
Re: rectifier problem

Thanks joe. I wil try the test this afternoon.
 

bm258

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 25, 2004
Messages
89
Re: rectifier problem

OK.... I did some testing this afternoon and here's what i got. Remember the tach works most of the time, but it occasionally drops to 0 RPM and then it goes back to the correct rpm's. Joe did I understand that if the VRO is not being used on this motor that the rubber plug should be disconnected? Mine was plugged, but i unplugged it today. I also hooked the tach send wire to the yellow/grey wire and the tach did work. But, these test came with the tach hooked up normally with an Volt meter.<br /><br />Engine turned off: 12.6 Volts<br />Engine running @ 2500: 14.2 volts<br /><br />It seems to me that the rectifier is working, and that i may have some sort of wiring prolem with the tachometer. But again, i am no marine mechanic. So again, thanks for all of your help and please post any ideas as to what my problem may be.
 
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