Rectifier replacement

[bashr52]

I just converted the lighting system on my quad from AC to DC power. To do so, I used one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-V...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2eb906aad1. In chasing a potential charging issue on my 85hp chrysler, I got wondering if I couldnt use the same thing on it. These are eadily replaceable, and easy to wire. Has anyone used one before? Can you still wire in the tach to work of the stator?

 

[RRitt]

Re: Rectifier replacement

look at the papers that came with it. It should list ratings and specifications. I think typical numbers for a force stator are going to be in the area of 18V at 3500RPM and 10Amp stator capacity. Heat (aka power) is probably more important than ampacity because 10A is really kind of small for 12VDC. If you are charging a battery from 13v to 13.5v then your regulator would need to have ....

50W power (rated power always assumes proper heatsink)
10A current

 

[fucawi]

Re: Rectifier replacement

yes these are the ones often used ..I assume you want a regulator rather than a rectifier ...earth black two yellows to stator red to battery EPLS

 

[bashr52]

Re: Rectifier replacement

yes these are the ones often used ..I assume you want a regulator rather than a rectifier ...earth black two yellows to stator red to battery EPLS

Yup these are a regulator/rectifier combo unit. Takes AC to DC and limits the output to what is needed for a 12 volt system. The way you described is exactly how I wired the one on my quad.

 

[Jiggz]

Re: Rectifier replacement

Exactly what I used to replace a bad rectifier! It cost just about the same and seems to be more sturdy compare to a plain vanilla rectifier only OEM part. However, the tach connections for some reasons will only work when you connect it to one of the correct yellow input wires. For some unexplained reason, when connected to the other yellow input wires, the tach goes haywire! But when moved to the other yellow input wire, it works perfect!

 

[bashr52]

Re: Rectifier replacement

That is a little weird. I know these systems require a "floating" ground, so it doesnt seem like it would matter which yellow wire you attach too. Weird.

 

[fucawi]

Re: Rectifier replacement

not wierd at all ..its regulating in one of the yellow wires and not in the other so one has a varying voltage relaive to eath dependent on what the regulator is doing..( a bit irish that)
If it works on one and you know that ..no problem.

 

[Jiggz]

Re: Rectifier replacement

Base on what Fucawi said, that means the unit is not a full wave bridge but rather a half-wave rectifier or maybe even full-wave center tap. Because if this unit is a full-wave bridge rectifier, it'll be rectifying equally on both legs of the AC side of the circuit. But that's just talks the bottom line it works and works great.

 

[bashr52]

Re: Rectifier replacement

Instead of starting another thread on my same question, let me resurrect this one . I got my universal regulator/rectifier installed, and a new digital voltage gauge hooked to the the "on" position of my key switch. Engine off, I see 20.2 volts on the gauge? Engine on, I see 11.6-11.7 volts on the gauge (regardless of RPM), which I confirmed at the battery with a meter (digital). I pulled the wires off the regulator and got 33-33.5 volts AC from the stator at idle, and the tach works so I know that side of the system is working. NO charging voltage from regulator? I swapped back to the factory regulator, same result. Red wire goes to the circuit breaker, then to the batter + terminal on the strip, black is tied to the regulator mounting bolt, and both yellow wires are to the stator leads. I did have to tie one of the leads to the tach wire before it was connected to the regulator.

Anyone have a similar issue? Leaving in a week for a fishing trip, and last year I got stranded with a dead battery, so I am a little gun-shy now about taking it without the charging issue corrected (although it turned out be a bad battery last year, charging system was working but battery wouldnt take a charge).

 

[Jiggz]

Re: Rectifier replacement

You most likely have a defective or already damaged regulator/rectifier. With a battery voltage of 11.6~11.7 the regulator/rectifier should at least be putting out 12.5V to charge the battery after running at least for about 5 minutes. The 20.2 V reading from the digital voltmeter with the engine off is something that needs to be investigated. With proper wiring and engine off, the voltmeter should read zero. One thing I noticed about this regulator/rectifier, it has a tendency to hold up the voltage for awhile and slowly raised the voltage depending on the battery charge. In my case, the charge voltage usually don't start going above 12V until at least 5 minutes of running.

 

[bashr52]

Re: Rectifier replacement

You most likely have a defective or already damaged regulator/rectifier. With a battery voltage of 11.6~11.7 the regulator/rectifier should at least be putting out 12.5V to charge the battery after running at least for about 5 minutes. The 20.2 V reading from the digital voltmeter with the engine off is something that needs to be investigated. With proper wiring and engine off, the voltmeter should read zero. One thing I noticed about this regulator/rectifier, it has a tendency to hold up the voltage for awhile and slowly raised the voltage depending on the battery charge. In my case, the charge voltage usually don't start going above 12V until at least 5 minutes of running.

I should have been clearer, the meter reads 20.2 with the engine off but key on. I would expect to see around 12 as it should only be picking up battery voltage in this case. I tried to rule out a defective regulator/rectifier by swapping back in the factory one (only ran it in the dirveway for a second or 2 though, didnt put it on the muffs). It was working last season, but as part of my spring maintenece I went and replaced it with this newer style. Perhaps I should have left well enough alone. My voltage did not change on the gauge even when towing a tube at higher RPMS for 10 minutes or so at a time.......

I guess I should find a test for verifying the regulators integrity.

 

[Jiggz]

Re: Rectifier replacement

With a built in regulator it's hard just to do the hi-lo resistance test. Instead the only way to test is hot test where you take voltage readings from the input (which you already did) and then measure the output directly from the red and black wire. Make sure the body of the unit is well grounded with its mounting screws at least.

In my case I used alligator clips extension wires with my VOM meter and let it ran until I see the output voltage stabilize. If the voltage does no go above battery voltage might as well disconnect the red wire and test it isolated from the battery. Make this test quick for it can damage the unit if left without load for a long time. Since this has a built in regulator it can stand a few seconds without load. Units without regulators just like the OEM rectifier will normally burn open when ran without load.

 

[bashr52]

Re: Rectifier replacement

I topped off the battery on my charger, and when re-installed I was reading around 12.4-12.6 volts at the guage now. I did notice if I probed the + lead directly from the battery is read slightly higher than at my volt meter. It appears there is a voltage drop over the key switch. I started it on the muffs and got 12.8 on the guage, and when tested directly on the output of the regulator at the terminal strip, I was seeing about 13 volts at idle. It may have been working correctly the whole time, and I was just paranoid. I did re-do all my connection points and verify all is well, so perhaps there was a bad connection originally.

 

[Jiggz]

Re: Rectifier replacement

Good. At 13.V you should be very OK. As for the little voltage drop, that is totally norm not to mention the difference in contacts when you made your readings.

 

[bashr52]

Re: Rectifier replacement

In my never-ending quotes to monitor all systems, I went ahead and installed an ammeter that I've had laying around. Gauge shows positive with engine at idle on muff, so looks like I may have it all figured out.

I did notice something else last night thought. when I first turn on the key I still see 20+ volts on the guage, and the display reads dim. if I turn on a light, honk the horn, or push in the choke, the display reads bright again and everything acts normal. It's like it needs a jump-start in current flow to get everything started?