reed valve/reed blocks

[rodeo4]

I have a 1978 Mercury 1150/115 hp/L6cyl. Motor is extremely difficult to start when cold. In fact, it will not start without the use of starting fluid. I've had the carbs rebuilt, the fuel pump rebuilt, the timing checked, the compression checked and the spark checked. Everything has checked out OK, however, the cold start problem still persists. I was advised that the fuel/air mixture is not being drawn into the crankcase properly and that the reed valves probably need to be replaced. I'm wondering if my problem is with the reed valve, which is on the crankcase opening or the reeds within the reed blocks on the crankshaft (on three main bearings). Also, I understand the purpose of the reed valve, but I don't understand the purpose of the reeds within the reed blocks. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks

 

[Clams Canino]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

The only reeds on this motor are on the reed blocks that wrap around the crank.<br /><br />If the reeds themselves are open a bit, or if the reed blocks are worn where they meet the crank, hard starting can result.<br /><br />Detail for me your starting procedure though? I can usually start any inline, even one with **** poor reeds.<br /><br />Also - how low can you get it to idle?<br /><br />-W

 

[rodeo4]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

Greetings Commander and thank you for your prompt response. My starting procedures usually go as follows: <br />Step #1: prime fuel line<br />Step #2: crank motor with choke on, approx. 20-30 seconds.<br />Step #3: stop cranking 5-10 seconds, prime fuel line and repeat steps 2 & 3.<br />If it gives no attempt to srart after about 3-4 tries (it never does), I spray starting fluid into each carburater and repeat steps 2 & 3.<br />I usually don't get any results till about the 3rd or 4th try with starting fluid. At this point it has difficulty holding idle and usually dies. However, if I continue to lightly spray starting fluid into each carburater it will eventually remain running on it's own. Once on it's own, it will run great and instantly starts if stop/starting is within 10-15 minutes. However, if it sits for a long period of time (say overnight), it will not start on it's own and the whole process of useing starting fluid is needed. <br />As to the rpm's, I have not checked it myself. However, I've had to raise it from where the service shop has set it to keep it running on it's own. I would guess that it is above 1000 rpms.<br />Again, Thank you for you time.

 

[LubeDude]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

Quit using the starting fluid, you may do damage to the cylinders as it has no lubrication in it. If you must, use a 50:1 mixture of gas and TC-W3 oil as a starting fluid. If things are right, you dont need it though. Are you sure you are pumping the bulb all the way hard. Those inlines need all the fuel you can give them and then some, I dont think you can flood a properly running Inline. Are you sure the choke is functioning properly?

 

[emckelvy]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

You probably would want to richen up on the idle mixture needles, try 1/4 turn counter-clockwise and see if that helps.<br /><br />Beyond that, you might think about installing a priming system on the motor, such as what was used on later Mercs. If you keep spraying starter fluid into the motor it's going to destroy it. Starter fluid has no oil in it so you're starting your motor without lubrication, literally grinding it up.<br /><br />Check your choke shutters, if they are warped or not closing fully you'll have problems. The motor should be tilted "in", so fuel in the carb's throats will run into the engine.<br /><br />You could also try adding a choke shutter & operating linkage to the bottom carb, maybe having (3) carb's choked instead of (2)will help.<br /><br />Most Inlines want lots of fuel, not less, when starting so the typical procedure involves pumping the fuel bulb up real hard, usually to the point of blowing fuel past the float needles and spilling out the carbs. My old M1000 wouldn't start at all unless this was done and my M1350 liked plenty of fuel, too. I never had an experience where it flooded from too much fuel on a cold start; it always wanted more, the Thirsty Bugger it was!!<br /><br />HTH......ed

 

[Clams Canino]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

You didn't mention advancing the throttle in neutral before cranking. They can't start and run in the idle position when cold.<br /><br />Also make sure it's trimmed ALL the way in.<br /><br />Flooding them is the key to starting them. <br /><br />-W

 

[rodeo4]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

Greetings Commander & Admiral, Your advise is sincerely appreciated. I will concentrate on the primer bulb as advised. I do notice that as I crank away the primer bulb looses up and needs firming up every time. The fuel hose is new and should be functioning properly. I have however held back on the firmness, afraid of pushing fuel out of the carbs. With two persons around during the starting process, we should be able to maintain bulb firmness during cranking. As for the choke mechanism, they are working properly as they were checked when carbs were rebuilt. I will also set the idle mixture richer as advised and quit useing starting fluid. If all the above does not improve the starting process significantly, I'll consider installing a choke shutter on the lower carb. I'll get back to you at a later date with my results. Regards and Thanks again.

 

[Clams Canino]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

I'm still wondering if you give it some throttle when trying to start it?<br /><br />-W

 

[rodeo4]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

Greetings Commander, How do I advance the throttle while in nuetral? Shift box allows power to the starter only in nuetral, with throttle up and down only after motor has started! Also, I'm not familiar with what many are refering to as the warm up lever. Can you point this out to me as I have not found any reference to this in my manual. I will not have an opportunity to put the boat in the water until after Thanksgiving. I'll update you with results on all the changes then.<br />Regards and Thanks again for your time.

 

[PuddleJumper]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

Sounds to me like Clams asked the right question

 

[rodeo4]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

Greetings PO3C-deej, Your welcome to respond to my questions as well. Thanks

 

[rodbolt]

Re: reed valve/reed blocks

first you have to identify the controls being used. then someone can tell you the correct procedure for fast idle warm up or disengagement of the shift function for throttle only.<br /> like the rest say, cease and desist with the starting fluids. I usually find its more of a problem with worn labyrinth seals than reeds. my 78 1500 did not like cold start either. I actually used wd40 down the throats to assist before I converted it to a primer type enrichment. not only does WD use propane as a propellent it has some lubricating qualities and the solvents burn. my 1500 would idle all day and start instanly once the initial fire up was done. in fact if you were careful you could start it with your bare hands on the flywheel.<br /> NOT a reccomended practice, usually starts with a dare or a bet and cold refreshments. not a good mix.<br /> rather than attempt to add a choke shutter, add the enrichment assy from a later inline or like I did from a jonnyrude that used the enrichment solinoid. its easy to cut into the fuel line and wiring, easy to mount and the carbs are easy to modify.<br /> to modify the carbs you should really remove them. find a location that will not interfere with any other linkage and will allow access to the hose nipple. drill into the carb body aft of the throttle shutters, I used the nipples from a two or 3 cyl jonnyrude with the plastic carb tops cause the primer nipples pop right out. measure the nipple bodies and drill the carbs .002" smaller. seat them in your previously drilled holes with some loctite stud and bearng mount. then make a bracket to hold the jonnyrude primer in place, wire the original choke 12V positive wire to the purple/white primer lead, ground the primer black lead. tap into the fuel line between the fuel pump and carbs with a T fitting, take the t'ed line to the primer and the two other tiny lines to the nipples on the carbs and it will start instantly there after. <br /> but nothing will help if your trying to start it at a dead idle cold.