Refloor and Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citaion

Bondo

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Re: Refloor and Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citaion

Hi SSS,... You'll get Help in the Restoration forum,... I'll ask a Mod to move this for ya....
 

son of a son of a sailor

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Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citatoin - Where do I start my cut??

Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citatoin - Where do I start my cut??

Looking for some ideas on where/how to cut out my transom, and how to go about replacing it. I have read and understand the basics of transom repair. (West Systems Fib. Boat Repair Manual 002-550 read and in library). This, as well as most other "traditional" repair lists, states you must remove the outer skin and core, and replacing it with multiple layers or 3/8",1/2",or 3/4" plywood. TWO MAIN QUESTION BELOW: 1) Transom Repair? 2) Transom access?

1) Transom Repair???????
If you do not have an inner layer of glass to apply your layers of core to (such as in the case of this poorly build transom on my '69 Glasspar Citation) what do you do? As you can see from the pictures I have posted I have a splash well over the back deck. The vertical picture is looking aft along the port gunnel. You can see that there is not even a layer of resin over the bare wood of the transom. To replace this solutions are to either:

Option 1- cut and remove the outer layer of glass and inner core, build a layer of glass on the inboard side to apply the core build-up too.

Option 2- Toss out the entire idea of using wood core and go with honeycomb panels (very expensive) this way would cut weight also add the assurance that I will never have to replace the transom again. Plus Nida-core comes with 18oz. glass on both sides for support.

Option 3- Use Nida-bond/core or Seacast pour in compound - but as mentioned above - I have no back glass layer to pour to and would have to build and apply it. Was thinking of using a panel of thinner (1/2") Nida-core as the inboard layer to pour to. Again, one of the most expensive options but dollars buy (and maintain) a dry transom.

2) Transom Access?????????
As you can see from the pictures I have posted I have a splash well over the back deck. The vertical picture is looking aft along the port gunnel. You can see that there is not even a layer of resin over the bare wood of the transom.

My ideas on cutting the top/splash well way from the hull to gain access to and replace the transom are:

Option 1 - Cutting vertically where the forward edge of the splash well meets the top cap on the inboard cabin. (where is takes a 90 degree turn) Continuing my cut across the top cap (rail), over and outboard to where the top cap was sealed by the factory to the hull.

Option 2 - Remove the entire top cap with the splash well attached. (a sh*t ton of work) The front and bow of the boat are in great shape and would hate to have to do this.
What every option I chose I will cross supports the hull to in sure I don't loose the hull shape.
Any ideas out there before I start getting happy with the saws-all and grinder??????
Thanks
 

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Bob_VT

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Re: Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citatoin - Where do I start my cut??

Re: Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citatoin - Where do I start my cut??

DO NOT CUT THE OUTER SKIN!! ;)

How are the stringer's..... solid? If your stringer's are toast .... remove the cap on the hull.

If the stringer's are okay and it is just the transom ...... I have seen people slice the cap forward of the spashwell and remove the 3 feet or so of the cap .....then are left with the task of a good repair when they replace it.

I will merge this with your other post ;)
 

son of a son of a sailor

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Re: Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citatoin - Where do I start my cut??

Re: Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citatoin - Where do I start my cut??

DO NOT CUT THE OUTER SKIN!! ;)

How are the stringer's..... solid? If your stringer's are toast .... remove the cap on the hull.
 

son of a son of a sailor

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Apr 15, 2010
Messages
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Re: Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citatoin - Where do I start my cut??

Re: Transom Repair '69 Glasspar Citatoin - Where do I start my cut??

The stringers are only foam wrapped in what looks like 6-18oz. roving, and I will be pulling and replacing the foam. If you search "glasspar Citation Refloor" you can view another member that I have been talking with (something "hunter" can't remember the exact name). He has the same boat and just repaired his stringers a bit more heavy then I wish to go. I plan on replacing the foam but applying some ripped down strips of nida-core panels in place of 2x12 Doug fir stringers laid flat. I feel the 2x12 laid flat do little for stringer support and only adds weight (and the poss. of future rot.) What is your take?

What are your thoughts on the repair of the transom with no backing?

I believe I will bite the bullet and pull the top cap off the hull. There is a small "side rail" repair that I need to address on the forward starbird side, and I can do this at the same time as the transom.
 
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