Removing aq130 engine

[jedar]

I have boat with aq130 engine and 270 overdrive. Had bad comp on first cylindar and was suspect at is valve, but actualy piston is damaged on top. Now i have to remove engine to change piston (or all 4).
Do i have to remove overdrive or is there easy way?
Thanks

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

You only need to remove the upper gearbox of the outdrive to remove the engine. You could also split it at the flywheel cover but there is usually quite a bit of maintenance to be done so you might as well remove the flywheel cover with the engine.

 

[jedar]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

Thank you for answer. Tomorrow we gonna remove engine i take some photos and post here

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

Don't know if you're aware of it or not, but you can just unplug the wiring harness instead of disconnecting every single connection. Good luck with removing the engine. You may find it's surprisingly simple!

 

[jedar]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

Engine is out, didn't know for wiring so we disconect manualy



Have some more questions.
What is must to change on engine and overdrive when is engine removed.

like Oil, oil filter , impeler, gaskets ,

On this picture
http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182393&d=1361291462

is There is shims between upper and intermediate housing. I didn't find those where are that exactly?
What i have to change on overdrive.
Give me any other tips for engine my mechanic man is more car oriented less boats engine so please help with any tips so we don't make mistakes.
Thanks for help

 

[Allbutwet]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

Yes there are shims in the outdrive. They are the size of the opening. Keep track of them. Or you will open a can of worms.
Check the stickys at the top of this section. Don has made a lot of exstremly important info available there.
One thing I notice in your pic is that at the bottom of the bell housing is where the rubber bushing inserts. It hopefully is still attached to the exhaust elbow on the transom shield. Do not loose it. It also holds your engine to the proper angle.
Since you have a bad piston and have to tear it down anyway why not just do a complete rebuild? A lot of these Volvo numbers are the same on the automotive side. The other thing is that when you get pistons make sure you get the right ones. There are two different wrist pin sizes. One is 22MM and the other which is probably what you have is 24MM.
I would also disassemble your exhaust manifold, and remove cooling tubes. This may take a lot of patience and PB blaster or equivalent. So you can clean the ports. This will ensure proper cooling.
Sorry I got long winded. You can also look at I believe the 4th page of my resto thread. I have pictures there of my engine tore down and going back together again.

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

View attachment Flywheel_cover_bearings.pdfYou should change the bearing and seals in the flywheel cover.

 

[jedar]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

Thank you for reply

One thing I notice in your pic is that at the bottom of the bell housing is where the rubber bushing inserts. It hopefully is still attached to the exhaust elbow on the transom shield. Do not loose it. It also holds your engine to the proper angle.

Yes is stil there attached on exhaust elbow

Since you have a bad piston and have to tear it down anyway why not just do a complete rebuild?

Yes i make full rebuild change pistons rings all gaskets, impeler , crankshaft bearings. Electric parts is almost new because previos owner has changed them before 6-7 month. Yes i ordered 22mm pistons and there is different size off piston rings 2x2x4,7 mm
and 1,75x2x4 mm. First is my option Head gasket 3 options 8 mm 1,2 mm and 2 mm.
Than i have normal water cooling aftermarket not sea water so exhaust manifold is in good condition but i gonna make some close photos tomorrow. i Check 4th page on your rebuild, thanks for info.

You should change the bearing and seals in the flywheel cover.

We checked that today and look all good , i think previous owner change that, look very good condition. But i gonna make call and talk with him, he is ok he already told me at engine have trouble with 1 cylinder and actually i get engine for free i just pay boat.

Yes there are shims in the outdrive. They are the size of the opening. Keep track of them.

This is stil trouble i actualy don't know where to look , yes i understud at is shims between upper and intermediate housing but how they look like? Something like this?

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

Shims are number 8 in this diagram: http://www.volvopentastore.com/Intermediate-Housing-Aq-Drive-Unit-270/dm/session_id.358679957--store_id.366--view_id.771727 Verify the u-joints are in good condition as well. Do yourself a favor and pressure test the outdrive before you get too far along. Much better to sacrifice a few O-rings now, than get to the end and find out you need to tear the outdrive apart again later. Here's a link to the upper gearbox as well: http://www.volvopentastore.com/Upper-Gear-Unit-Aq-Drive-Unit-270-270t-A/dm/*******.168926931--session_id.358679957--store_id.366--view_id.771725

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

Inspect the u-joints carefully and make sure they're in good shape. Anything more than extremely light surface rust, and it's cheap insurance to replace them. U-joint bellows replacement is a normal maintenance task, so do that now. The water fitting on the intermediate section is also a maintenance item. Bad part about this is that you usually don't know it's going bad until it's too late. It's item 28 in this link: Intermediate Housing Aq Drive Unit 270 - 7736850 - Volvo Penta. You can get the Volvo Penta or Sierra parts right here on iboats.

 

[jedar]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

Sorry for my noob questions
u-joints is part number 27 28 and 29?
How to do pressure test? Any special equipment?

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

It's actually the cross pieces that need to be replaced, #30 on the diagram. To save yourself some money on these, Spicer 5-1306X is the replacement. Use your head with regard to placement of the grease zerk. You'll want them on the crosspiece, and not on the cap. And you'll want to place them on opposite sides of each other on the two joints to maintain balance. If the inner one doesn't come out easily, DO NOT start taking apart the gearbox until you post back. Some of us have learned some expensive lessons about stripped bolts and pressure boundaries :blue:.

Pressure test procedure is in the manual. You're just shooting in the dark if you don't have an actual Volvo Penta manual and can end up with some expensive errors. Many things on these outdrives aren't intuitive. You need a manual to understand how things work.

Another thing to start is new threads on specific topics. Otherwise questions get lost deep in the posts and you'll miss excellent advice from the real experts.

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

There is an unbelievable amount of good information on this forum so start learning how to use the search feature. Start with "gearbox" in the Volvo Penta section and you'll start seeing lots of posts on the subject and it'll help you narrow down your specific issues.

 

[Allbutwet]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

jedar I was referring to the wrist pin where the piston rod attaches to the piston. There are two different sized wrist pin bores available. 22MM and 24MM. Just make sure your new pistons have the right wrist pin bore.
And no need to apologize for newb questions. That's kind of the point of the forums. The shims in the outdrive housing are in between each section. Look here in the sticky section. I believe Don has posted a link to the Manual for the outdrive. If not it is on the web.
And I concur with Pirate. I would keep this post strictly about your engine and start a new one for your outdrive.

 

[PiratePast40]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

In addition to the piston pin sizes, I believe there is also a change in the big end bearing sizes based on the engine serial number.

Allbutwet, wish I had seen your thread earlier. I did about the same thing a few years ago. Took the boat down to bare hull and replaced the transom, stringers, and transom. Nice work!

 

[jedar]

Re: Removing aq130 engine

There is an unbelievable amount of good information on this forum so start learning how to use the search feature.

I'm long time internet and forum user so i do search but sometimes especially when you are newcomer is hard to know what is good information. I think you are people here, very kind and help me "on the first ball" .

jedar I was referring to the wrist pin where the piston rod attaches to the piston. There are two different sized wrist pin bores available. 22MM and 24MM.

Yes and my pistons is 22 mm.

The shims in the outdrive housing are in between each section.

Ok so i open only upper section so there is only 1 shims other is under, and i have that shim so that is ok.

I would keep this post strictly about your engine and start a new one for your outdrive.

Ok so far there should be no problem with overdrive, if something going wrong i gonna open new topic

My engine is from 1975 so should be "last edition".
And btw i live in Sweden home country to Volvo Penta , but trouble is at now is high season for boats and is very long time to get
one boat engine mechanic free time, i get response about 30-40 days waiting time, and wont at my summer be ruined, here is summer
very short.
Right now waiting for parts to arive. Anyway i have zillion questions about engine, drive and boats generally but so far i find all on search. And i get that boat cheap . I like to restore and get some more close relation with object is not about money i was restoring before old Alfa Romeo cars, and is wonderful experience.