removing deck

coachmup

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
30
how do I remove the deck from the joint between deck and hull?<br /><br />Also, my flotation foam is still in good shape(I think)how do I remove the deck without tearing up the foam?<br /><br />The only thing I have to use right now is a jigsaw.
 

alanR1

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 13, 2003
Messages
109
Re: removing deck

When you say deck do you mean the stringers that run longways or the floor?? Unclear here! Besides that if you have removed the floor and can see the stringers and the foam you will most likely have to remove the foam to get the stringers out. If you are removing the stringers you will need to cut them down as close to the hull as possible without cutting the hull and then sand the down to get to bare hull. Hope this helps..
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: removing deck

I used a 4 inch angle grinder with a cut-off wheel intended to cut metal. You have to be careful with it as the wheel goes through the glass very easily and you could end up through the hull. I also used the angle grinder with a grinding wheel to grind down and rough up all my surfaces that would be having new material glassed to it. As for the foam, it is doubtful the foam even contacts the underside of the floor, so that should not be a problem. If the foam is dry, you can pop it out eithr as a single piece or multiple sections. Are you planning to replace stringers? You may find that the foam is in bad shape or at least partly waterlogged and it may serve you better to just install new 2 part foam. The new foams are much more water resistant. Good luck...
 

mutron77

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 19, 2004
Messages
114
Re: removing deck

Find out where the deck stops(wood,)and the hull begins. Usually the wood will run under a small lip around the edges. If you have 1/2 inch plywood, you can get a circular saw and set the depth for a half inch, but be very careful as stated, if you wander too far to the edge you will look down and see your driveway through the hull. Ask me how I know. My buddy 'ventilated' our V hull' about 14 inches worth. This happens more than you think, just ask around you local marine shop. After the shock though, we decided the hull was worth $100 before we cut a hole in it, and now it was worth about $99. A little filler resin and tape and it is better than new.<br />Good luck, Hey Jason, I agree about the angle grinder, It was the most useful and time saving tool I used. Everything from grinding to roughing to sanding to shaping wood. It did it all.<br />H90
 

jfholijr

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 24, 2003
Messages
172
Re: removing deck

Hello H90 will you explain the filler resin aproach because (stupid me) I cut a real pretty strait line through the hull of my boat with a saws all trying to cut the floor out of my boat. The only repair that I know of now is to grind a 12 to 1 bevel and use several layers of mat then bondo filler to smooth it out then regel the erea repaired. Is there an easier way? Also the cut through the hull is only about 8 inches long.
 

mutron77

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 19, 2004
Messages
114
Re: removing deck

I know the feeling!!!!<br />Just let me say at the time we were told by a shop to just fill it with Marine Tex. And we did. And you know, the cut is right by one of the trailer bunks and it held up through all that bouncing?<br />Anyway I am no expert but have been being tutored by someone who's been in the boat building biz all his life. <br />He didn't feel it was necessary to do the layer upon layer thing with a small bladewith cut like that.<br />You should bevel or "chamfer" the edges on both sides to 'lock' in the repair. Then you can fill the cut with 404 high density filler, sand it smooth on both sides and then lay a couple of layers of tape over that. I used Biaxial tape. With the beveled edges the filler is locked in place and can move neither in or out. Then you can fill the weave with another coat of epoxy and sand and mix up a fairing compound to make it look pretty, and paint.<br />It is a high risk area and it needs to be repaired well but with 404 and biaxial tape it ain't goin' nowhere. If the hole was really large and wide I guess I would take a different approach.<br />my 2 cents<br /><br />good luck<br />H90
 

coachmup

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
30
Re: removing deck

JasonJ<br /><br />I have cut out the middle section the length of the boat there was water holding in it. The stringers were wet and semi soft. I cut a test hole out of each of the outside sections. The foam is dry (at least on top) but does come in contact with the floor. It is not stuck to it but touches. Thanks for everyones help any further information will be appreciated. Hopefully I won't need to use the repair advice.
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: removing deck

Its a pretty safe bet that if the stringers are soft and wet that the foam is part way saturated. It may seem dry on top, but I bet if you dig down into the foam you will strike water. Sounds to me like it all needs to come out and you can start glassin' in new material. Its fun....
 
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